Kirby Yazzie tweeted picture of his free Bus Pirate v3.8 PCB build. The Bus Pirate is an open source hacker multi-tool that talks to electronic stuff.
If you build a free PCB we’ll send you another one! Blog about it, post a picture on Flicker, whatever – we’ll send you a coupon code for the free PCB drawer.
Get your own handy Bus Pirate for $30, including world-wide shipping. Also available from our friendly distributors.
A detailed tutorial on how to make your own APRS iGate (Automatic Packet Reporting System) from Andrew Milluzzi:
With the super cheap embedded Linux platforms (Raspi, Beaglebone, etc.) and cheap TV dongles, it is really easy to make your own APRS iGate, just like the one in the photo above. This tutorial will give you the steps to get going with an APRS iGate. What is APRS you ask?
APRS stands for Automatic Packet Reporting System. It is a 1200 baud RF (mainly ham radio) packet system commonly used to record telemetry. Sometimes it is fun to log a trip or track a robot. APRS is a great tool for these sorts of problems. In the USA, APRS is commonly used on 144.39 MHz. It can be used between radios directly or can be used to log on the internet (via websites such as APRS.fi) via an internet gateway or iGate.
Details at Milluzzi Labs.
Voja Antonic writes:
When you live in a totalitarian, controlled and “happy” society, and you want to be a hacker, you have to hack the social system first. Being just an engineer doesn’t cut it, you have to be a hypocrite, dissident and a smuggler at the same time. That’s the motto of my personal story, which starts in Yugoslavia, and ends in Serbia. No, I didn’t move, I’m still in Belgrade, only the political borders have changed…
Details at Hackaday.
Via the contact form. Thanks Mike!
Every Tuesday we give away two coupons for the free PCB drawer via Twitter. This post was announced on Twitter, and in 24 hours we’ll send coupon codes to two random retweeters. Don’t forget there’s free PCBs three times a every week:
Some stuff:
We try to stagger free PCB posts so every time zone has a chance to participate, but the best way to see it first is to subscribe to the RSS feed, follow us on Twitter, or like us on Facebook.
As a follow up to the Soldering Iron PID temperature controller post, Mike Doughty of PCB Smoke blogged about on how to modify an ordinary plugin soldering iron to work with a PID temperature controller – second version:
This new version has some improvements since the first version back in April, 2015. The soldering iron in this new version gets hotter and heats up faster than the first one. It also uses a different PID controller that is capable of higher temperatures plus it uses an SSR instead of a built in relay.
Like the first version, a K-type thermocouple was mounted internally inside the soldering iron at the back of the heating element. Mounting the thermocouple internally has the advantage that it is out of the way. The video shows the unit being tested with a range of temperatures at 200°C, 250°C, 300°C and 350°C. A tip thermometer was used to compare the temperature of the soldering iron tip with the temperature controller.
More details at PCB Smoke blog.
Follow up video on adjusting the thermocouple.
Check out the video after the break. Continue reading “Plugin soldering iron temperature controller version 2”
Had a few reports of the mobile site showing up on desktop views. Sorry for the issue and thanks for the reports! We’re checking it out.
Deleted any cache, checked cache settings and mod rewrite rules, etc. It’s not happening for us, but if it effects you please let us know in the comments below so we can tackle the issues. You can also go to the bottom of the page and choose the desktop version of the site.
Dilshan Jayakody published a new build, USB to 3.3V – 5V serial TTL adapter:
This post is about experimental USB to 3.3V/5V serial TTL adapter which we build recently to work with both 5V and 3.3V MCUs. This project is mainly based on CH340G seral-USB chip. CH340G is cheap and commonly available serial-USB convert IC and now it’s commonly found on Chinese versions of Arduino development boards.
FTDI’s FT232 is another possible alternative for this kind of project, but we drop it because of its famous device driver base chip locking issues. Also compare with FT232, CH340G is cheap, commonly available and simple to construct with minimum number of components.
In this module we incorporate 5V/3.3V voltage selector switch to avoid interface matching issues due to different voltage levels of main-board/MCU and serial TTL adapter.
Project files available at elect.wikispaces.com.
Steve’s latest DirtyPCBs project, a wireless MQTT battery monitor:
This board uses an ESP8266 (ESP12), a Texas Instruments INA226 I2C voltage and current monitor, and a Texas Instruments LMR12010X buck converter. This board is designed to wirelessly monitor 12 volt batteries and power supplies using an external current shunt resistor. The voltage across the shunt resistor is measured differentially. The shunt resistor value and current rating is programmable in the firmware.
Via the contact form.
Tahmid writes:
I had previously used the Adafruit TFT display using my library (ported from the Adafruit Arduino library). I decided to optimize the library to improve drawing speed. The same display I use comes with a 4-wire resistive touch-screen as well. I decided to write a simple library for the touch-screen and give Protothreads a try. To incorporate all this, I thought it would be cool if I used these to make a simple game. Tic-tac-toe came to mind as a fun little demo.
Project info at Tahmid’s blog.
Check out the video after the break. Continue reading “PIC32 Tic-Tac-Toe: Demonstration of using touch-screen, TFT and the Protothreads threading library”
We go through a lot of prototype PCBs, and end up with lots of extras that we’ll never use. Every Sunday we give away a few PCBs from one of our past or future projects, or a related prototype. Our PCBs are made through Seeed Studio’s Fusion board service. This week two random commenters will get a coupon code for the free PCB drawer tomorrow morning. Pick your own PCB. You get unlimited free PCBs now – finish one and we’ll send you another! Don’t forget there’s free PCBs three times every week:
Vibration motor bulkheads mounting guide from Precision Microdrives. Link here
The word bulkhead has a few different meanings, in this context we are using it to represent a large flat surface or sheet. For example, a large metal chute which is carrying materials which are prone to coagulating, may require a vibration motor. This bulletin is aimed at providing different options for mounting the vibrating motor to the bulkhead.
Of course the applications which may use bulkheads are varied, and are not necessarily as large as the example above (consider for example, the internal bulkhead of a handheld product’s enclosure). So to cover as many different situations as we can, we have produced this comprehensive guide. We have grouped different mounting techniques into the following categories:
Glue and Adhesive Methods
Fasteners and Clips
Injection Moulded Mounts
Vibration motor PCB mounting guide from Precision Microdrives. Link here
There are many methods for mounting a vibration motor to a Printed Circuit Board (PCB), each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Some techniques are specific to different types of motor.
This guide will help you evaluate different mounting methods and perhaps introduce some options you had not considered. The different mounting techniques are split into four main groups, and each discussed in turn:
Solder Methods
Glue and Adhesive Methods
Fasteners and Clips
Injection Moulded Mounts
An app note from ST, USB DFU protocol used in the STM32 bootloader (PDF!):
This application note describes the USB DFU protocol used in STM32 microcontroller bootloader. It details each supported command. For more information about the USB hardware resources and requirements for your device bootloader, please refer to the “STM32 system memory boot mode” application note (AN2606)
Want to add this on your car? Check out Eddie Zarick‘s video on how to install a pressurized water system on your car bumper:
A step by step guide to me cutting up my 15′ Wrangler and installing some running water from my stock rear bumper using a 12v RV pump. Check it out!
Via Make.
Check out the video after the break. Continue reading “Install a pressurized water system on your car bumper”
Every Friday we give away some extra PCBs via Facebook. This post was announced on Facebook, and on Monday we’ll send coupon codes to two random commenters. The coupon code usually go to Facebook ‘Other’ Messages Folder . More PCBs via Twitter on Tuesday and the blog every Sunday. Don’t forget there’s free PCBs three times every week:
Continue reading “Free PCB coupon via Facebook to 2 random commenters”
Stuart tweeted, “A few stickers were visible on my TV spot this evening! @PartsIO @embeddedfm @dangerousproto @hackaday @stem_network”
HakanL writes:
As part of a home automation project I’ve been testing different infrared receivers/transmitters. One inexpensive USB-based transceiver is the USB Infrared Toy (v2)
This uses the Microchip PIC 18F2550 microcontroller which acts as a virtual USB serial port. The problem is that the included driver isn’t signed so it can’t be used in Windows 8.x. Various people have suggested to disable signature checking in Windows, but that’s both risky and complicated. I wanted to go the proper route instead, which is to sign the driver with a certificate. A real certificate is about $180/year (code signing certificate) and I didn’t wan to pay that, so the alternative is to use a self-created certificate and ask Windows to trust that (which is a normal Windows process, doesn’t require a diagnostic boot, etc). I wanted to document the steps so it can be reproduced as well for other drivers.
Details at Hakan’s coding and stuff site.
Fred over at the 430h forum shared another project using his NFC implant and an MSP4305529 to unlock his PC:
I recent completed the prototype of my LoginNFC project. It’s a combination of MSP430 acting as a USB keyboard (and CDC serial for configuration) and a TRF7970A NFC reader. The prototype was done with a F5529 LaunchPad and TRF7970A Booster – along with a ferrite antenna to improve the read range.
It’s working well and I did a small write-up here
Via 43oh forum.
Project info at Fred’s project page.
Check out the video after the break.
Continue reading “An NFC implant to open doors and unlocking PCs”
MAINS Power Dimmer / Switch Module project by Tracker J:
Now it’s about time to talk also about what many of you has asked for: DIMMING!
It’s a total different story, little bit complicated but, as you will see, not so hard to understand.General considerations:
There are several types of dimmers generally available. These are used for resistive, and inductive loads, such as incandescent,cold cathode and low voltage (inductive) lamp sources. Note that not all electronic transformers used for low voltage lamps are suitable for dimming by Triac or Thyristors dimmers. In case of Thyristors you need 2 of them as Thyristor is a Unidirectional device and because AC power flows in both directions!
Project info at ESP8266 projects.
Check out the video after the break.
Continue reading “WIFI Mains Power Dimmer / Switch with CBDBv2”
Adam over at Maniacal Labs has written up documentation on his NExuS weekend project:
My main desires for this build was that the NES look completely stock and unchanged from the front and that original, unmodified, NES gamepads worked via the original gamepad ports. Fortunately, this turned out not to be too bad. First, I needed all the extra parts that would allow me to break out power, network, and video for the Nexus player, and to hook up some extra peripherals. Some I already had lying around, some I had to order but for all parts, these are the exact items:
- microUSB to microUSB Extension Cable
- IEC320 C7 Socket
- Ethernet Coupler
- 8″ HDMI Extension
- Right Angle microUSB Cable
- microUSB Ethernet Adapter and USB Hub
Also needed were:
- NES Gamepad Hookup PCB (more on this below)
- M4-0.7 screws (10-16mm length)
- Printed brackets (more on this below)
- 16 AWG Wire
- Female 2-prong socket end
- Hot Glue
- Quick Set Epoxy
- Low Grit Sandpaper
Project details at Maniacal Labs project page.
