Surface mount soldering tutorial

Posted on Thursday, October 13th, 2011 in how-to by DP

EEVblog made a SMD hand soldering tutorial. In the video Dave explains how to solder small SMD capacitors and resistors, all the standard size pitches for ICs up to a 0.5mm pitch, as well as some tips how to use large thermal pads, like adding thermal paste or preheating the board and the IC.

This entry was posted on Thursday, October 13th, 2011 at 6:00 pm and is filed under how-to. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.

5 Responses to “Surface mount soldering tutorial”

  1. Sjaak says:

    I noticed the ‘inverse’ silkscreen on the boards Dave uses. Does someone knows how to do that in eagle?

    I also like the protoboard he uses. :)

    • erdabyz says:

      I don’t know if this is exactly what you mean, but try painting anything in the tStop and bStop layers. Soldermask won’t be applied to any area painted in those layers.

    • Sjaak says:

      Does this also work for the silkscreen layer (or tname/tplace layers)??

      • erdabyz says:

        I guess it does. Component pads actually have tStop and/or bStop layers to indicate the “no soldermask” area over them. Mask gerbers are generated from those layers also. I’ve sent PCB’s with theoretical silkscreen over PCB pads and it wasn’t actually applied, so I guess that if you define a no-soldermask area silkscreen won’t be applied over it.

  2. erdabyz says:

    By the way: every time you directly apply a narrow stream of air at 350ºC to solder paste god kills a transistor.

    Even if it’s a “basic” video you DON’T teach people the wrong way… directly heating the solder paste at 350ºC means not knowing a s**t about how soldering paste actually works.
    Soldering paste contains two or more types of fluxes meant to work at different phases of the reflow proccess and you must respect that in order to get quality joints.

    Most pastes require to sit at an intermediate temperature for some time (150-180ºC) so the first action fluxes activate and do their job until they completely and SLOWLY evaporate, and then you can climb to reflow temperature which by the way should be much lower than 350ºC. If you don’t do it that way or heat too fast, the fluxes liquify and the paste spreads out of the pads and then it makes a huge mess… much bigger if the fluxes start boiling or things like that….

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