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  1. The author writes, that it is possible to get this toner transfer paper from Digikey, was anyone able to find the correct part number for it?

  2. For paper, this type works perfectly for toner transfer and is only US$12.99 for 250 sheets. Once soaked in water for just a few minutes, the paper floats right off the board and leaves all of the toner behind:

    HP Premium Presentation Laser Paper, 8 1/2″ x 11″, 32 Lb, 95 (US) Brightness, Pack Of 250

    http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/547719/HP-Premium-Presentation-Laser-Paper-8/?Channel=Google&mr:trackingCode=7CE8E18B-029C-DF11-98FF-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA&cm_mmc=Mercent-_-Googlepla-_-Paper+Copy_Printer_Paper-_-547719&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=18533253836&mr:keyword={keyword}

  3. I think there’s an easier solution… Drill before you mask…

    1) Print out the top layer (properly mirrored…)

    2) Tape it down to copper stock…

    3) Drill the through holes…

    4) Print out the top and bottom layers for toner transfer…

    5) Lay the board on a light table (or use whatever strong light source you have handy)

    The rest should be obvious… ;-) Use the drilled holes to guide layout alignment… I’ve never had an issue with alignment using this method… Use decent drill bits and make sure you clean the board thoroughly (both of which you should be doing anyway if you’re expecting decent results…)

    When using doublesided phototransfer alignment, I used to lay a couple of registration vias outside of my board boundary, and drill those before trying to line everything up in my exposure frame… (two sheets of “hardware store” glass with scrap pcb framing and a couple of binder clips to hold everything together…)

    I also find that I tend to notice issues with the layout that I wouldn’t otherwise notice until after I’d etched and started drilling (or populating the board)… Drilling first forces me to spend a little time looking at the layout “put together”… YMMV… :-)

    1. This works with the toner transfer meathod? I always thought you couldn’t drill holes before you etched because the etching solution would etch through the copper pads from the sides of the hole. But, if you said it works for ya, I’ll have to try it.

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