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Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2130
Just got the delivery for the missing parts and replaced Q14 and 16 with Vishay SI2315BDS-T1-E3 as suggested in this thread. Unfortunately, the OLED still behaves the same. I'll solder in Q18-22, but I don't quite think that this will make a difference. So most probably my OLED is broken?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2131
[quote author="Doomedahab"].....but there's also a 6 pin header. What is it for? I cannot find clear pictures of it being connected to anything, and I am not able to figure it out from the schematics unfortunately[/quote]
This 6-pin header is for flashing the microcontroller on sensor board. The firmware for sensor is in the sensor folder in the software archive.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2132
[quote author="DinikS"][quote author="Doomedahab"].....but there's also a 6 pin header. What is it for? I cannot find clear pictures of it being connected to anything, and I am not able to figure it out from the schematics unfortunately[/quote]
This 6-pin header is for flashing the microcontroller on sensor board. The firmware for sensor is in the sensor folder in the software archive.[/quote]

Thanks!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2133
[quote author="db9mat"]So most probably my OLED is broken?[/quote]
Or the boost converter. If you have an oscilloscope, check OLEDVCC for a voltage ripple. You can probe on C77 right at the edge of the OLED board.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2134
When askast posted a picture of his Unisolder with a 2.42" screen at while ago it certainly piqued my interest :). Based on his description I found that Aliexpress is awash with sellers offering this screen, including back board, for around 17 euros shipped. I just had to see if it worked, and it turns out it's basically plug and play, and compatible with the original firmware, just as askast said. This is the yellow version but is also comes in white, blue and green. Here's the link to the one I purchased:

 https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/0Z5XHSuox

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2135
Very interesting, just ordered a display :)

Can you share the pinout you used to connect it to the main board?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2136
These screenshots should be all you need. I took them from a YouTube video askast was nice enough to make. Just so you know: the display you will receive is an updated version with a redesigned board but the pinout is exactly the same

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2137
[quote author="db9mat"]I got this display: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-0- ... 4c4dPkQMaA

It was recommended by a fellow user in this thread. Doesn't mean that I got the exact same hardware as he got when he ordered though...[/quote]
That display did indeed work for me out of the box:





Sad to see you didn't had as much luck as i did. Maybe the display itself or the boost converter is broken - it's really hard to tell. But adding Q18-Q22 shouldn't make any difference, since afaik those aren't connected to the functionality of the OLED at all.

I hope you'll have more luck with the 2.42" screen...

 

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2138
Hi people,

I cannot get anything to display on my screen, the board is programmed and makes a single beep when powered and back solder pad jumpers are soldered.

In my initial rush I wired the front and back power connecter like for like so it looks like I put 3.3v into the -0.6v and -0.6v to 3.3v, I don’t know if this has caused any damage to components.

My electronics knowledge is limited, I have read through the posts and tried various things but had no luck so far. I purchased the Unisolder as a complete kit from a fellow forum user and hand soldered all the components.

Any help/directions will be appreciated.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2139
Thank you for a great project.
Now the time has come to power up my Unisolder 5.2 wich I have carefully soldered together. I have used the interactrive Unisolder chips as a support. I`v also ordered parts according to the  UniSolder52_BOM_edit_10. and cross checked with the ordinary bom and the Unisolder notes.
I guess i have 12V display
The regulator on the power board is a fixed one 3,3v
The resistors and the caps are the right way

I have some  question to ask before I put the 25 v AC power on the power PCB:

1: Is it safe to power up  the power board, not having the front board connected, to measure the powers on the otput (3,3v -0,6v), or must all the boards be connected together as a closed circuit, and then measure. I`m thinkin of save the front board from wrong voltages if something is wrong with the power.

2: Regarding the programming of the PIC`s .
Do the sensor board U6 (pic12f615) get programmed in the same round as I program the main  U5 (pic32MX564F128H), if I have it connected, Or do I have to program the sensor board with the US_sensor.X.production.hex file afterwards, or maybe not at all ? I can not find anything about this in the forum.

3: Regarding the sleep function, there are 3 cables; SLEEP, GND and 3,3V. I guess when i do not have the sleep sensor board connected and the cables pointing to nowhere, the unisolder will still work, or do the SLEEP cable have to be connected to 3,3V all the time unless it is connected to GND, and the Unisolder go to sleep. ? ?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2140
[quote author="bjornsundklakk"]Is it safe to power up  the power board, not having the front board connected, to measure the powers on the otput (3,3v -0,6v), or must all the boards be connected together as a closed circuit, and then measure.[/quote]
It's safe to power up the power board without the controller board connected to measure all the voltages. I did so as well. Afaik it's even recommended - simply to make sure you won't damage the controller board with the wrong voltages.

[quote author="bjornsundklakk"]Do the sensor board U6 (pic12f615) get programmed in the same round as I program the main  U5 (pic32MX564F128H), if I have it connected, Or do I have to program the sensor board with the US_sensor.X.production.hex file afterwards, or maybe not at all ?[/quote]
The sensor board has to be programmed separately, since there's no data connection between the sensor and controller board (so it won't be technically possible to programm both via the controller board).

As for programming the sensor board - it's written on the last page:
[quote author="DinikS"][quote author="Doomedahab"].....but there's also a 6 pin header. What is it for? I cannot find clear pictures of it being connected to anything, and I am not able to figure it out from the schematics unfortunately[/quote]
This 6-pin header is for flashing the microcontroller on sensor board. The firmware for sensor is in the sensor folder in the software archive.[/quote]
And you have to flash the firmware to use the sensor board (otherwise it won't work, cause then the PIC microcontroller doesn't know what to do).

[quote author="bjornsundklakk"]Regarding the sleep function, there are 3 cables; SLEEP, GND and 3,3V. I guess when i do not have the sleep sensor board connected and the cables pointing to nowhere, the unisolder will still work, or do the SLEEP cable have to be connected to 3,3V all the time unless it is connected to GND, and the Unisolder go to sleep. ? ?[/quote]
The UniSolder will still work without the sensor board. You can send it manually to sleep by connecting SLEEP to GND (not to 3.3V):

https://github.com/5N44P/unisolder-notes#sleep-sensor

Afaik the 3.3V is used as supply voltage for the PIC and the IR receiver on the sensor board.

However it's not recommended to connect SLEEP directly to the metal enclosure of a holder:

[quote author="sparkybg"][quote author="DinikS"][quote author="sparkybg"]Taking the "SLEEP" signal line to GND means that the iron is in the stand.[/quote]

hello sparkybg, if I understood you right there is no need to assembly sensor board it needs just only one wire "sleep" (J5 connector) being connected to the iron stand, and when the iron is being put on stand as it has GND on its body the station will switch sleep mode on? or I'm not right? Could you please comment this? Thanks[/quote]

No. Az I mentioned earlyer, GND and EARTH are different things, and the outer shell of the iron isn't always connected at all.

On the back RJ connector, you have 3.3V and GND. You must connect the SLEEP wire to GND on it. The SLEEP wire has pull-up to 3.3V, so a simple switch is OK. I made it optical, because it was easier for me to do. An it hasn't any moving parts, so it is very reliable.[/quote]

But you can build a touch sensor board (instead of the optical sensor board) - as described here by 'minkok' and 'DinikS':

viewtopic.php?p=66717#p66717

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2141
Thank you Morpheus1979 for your quick replies.
I will power up my Unisolder 5.2, with a Hakko T12, one of this days.
I have two sets.
May bee I will build a touch sensor in the new year.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2142
[quote author="db9mat"]Just got the delivery for the missing parts and replaced Q14 and 16 with Vishay SI2315BDS-T1-E3 as suggested in this thread. Unfortunately, the OLED still behaves the same. I'll solder in Q18-22, but I don't quite think that this will make a difference. So most probably my OLED is broken?[/quote]
Very unlikely to have bad oled, afedorov gave you directions, just follow them. Check OLEDVCCIN, OLEDVDD and OLEDVCC in respect to GND, the time of the problem, your OLED is 9V type.
Check P2/ pin2 to GND.
If all that is ok, check the connections of the other signals from pin to pin to controller.
Very posible even you get new display to inherit the problem.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2143
[quote author="Moein"]Hi people,

I cannot get anything to display on my screen, the board is programmed and makes a single beep when powered and back solder pad jumpers are soldered.

In my initial rush I wired the front and back power connecter like for like so it looks like I put 3.3v into the -0.6v and -0.6v to 3.3v, I don’t know if this has caused any damage to components.

Any help/directions will be appreciated.[/quote]
Please, check 3.3V and 0.6V if they persist on a front board and read my recomendation to db9mat
Check OLEDVCC if is correct for your oled display.
Also I can see some oxidation or flux on D/C connector, please check it.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2144
Thanks for all your answers, will check all that in a week as I'm currently on holiday without access to any measurement equipment (or the actual board for that matter). I will definitely report back!