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Topic: Really universal soldering controller (Read 811598 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2070
Hello


Sorry to be a pain but is there a better Bill Of Materials file as I'm in the United Kingdom and im using Farnell and the file only verifies 13 components

and I'm wondering if it's been done properly at all

regards

andy

 

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2071
A few pages back I posted about problems with the backboard,  which seemed to be solved at one point, but that unfortunately proved not to be the case. I decided to just start over again. So I ordered 10 sets of boards at jlcpcb, built a new back board, and this is the result. Next up: calibration. Wish me luck :-)

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2072
[quote author="18minimus18"]Hello


Sorry to be a pain but is there a better Bill Of Materials file as I'm in the United Kingdom and im using Farnell and the file only verifies 13 components

and I'm wondering if it's been done properly at all

regards

andy[/quote]

The unisolder Github page made by a forum member here was of great help to me. It lists alternative parts for many positions and has lots of good info. You will however have to look up most parts manually as the bom is not on stock keeping unit level. Also, you will most likely not find all parts in stock at Farnell. Arrow currently ship for free worldwide with no minimum order value and they stock almost all needed parts. Between those two shops you should be able to order everything you need.

Edit: I recommend tme to source the transformer, they have several 24v, 120va options for little money.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2073
So close now, yet so far... Calibration went ok I guess, but is it normal for the R value to quickly fluctuate +/- 3 points? On my device it does. I dialled it in so it fluctuates between 999 and 1001.

I powered the boards up with my jbc 245 (knokoo knock-off from aliexpress, genuine tips), and it gets recognized correctly.

But unfortunately, when I plug in the tip, the display only shows ambient temp and the heater is on at max 130w power permanently.  Because I had my finger on the switch as a precaution I powered off before the tip started to glow, so fortunately no damage.

What could cause this fault? Where to begin the trouble shooting?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2074
Solved it! It turns out that the red and blue wires are reversed in the knokoo handle. I started to suspect this after reading a similar issue on page 134, which was caused by a reversed wire. I just re-wired the connector and it's working now!! I can't believe it myself lol

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2075
Glad to see you've solved the issue and do have a working UniSolder station now.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2076
[quote author="Morpheus1979"]Glad to see you've solved the issue and do have a working UniSolder station now.[/quote]

Thanks Morpheus, it's enormously satisfying to have made it. Next project is a nice case, along the lines of Tony's work.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2077
[quote author="Phyllomedusa"]Hello all together,
I had been reading the topic for quite a whiel and finally took time to finish my Unisolder.

First of all I validated the main PCB and checked voltages and they were fine.
Then I checked resistances and the Front PCB and finally that is fine as well as it seems. I just had a tiny bridge unter U15 and therefore a lower Resistance on SCL, but fixed that.

Programming was fine as well, but I have some trouble with the Display and would like to ask you around before I start to change IC's or so.
I was just running the Front PCB powered by Pickit3 and then attached the Power PCB as well, just to check. I did that beacuse I didn't want to risk frying anything (in fact I already fried a PIC on anothe runisolder build because I tried to debug it while powered).

+The PCB seems to reboot constantly (could be power limitations from Pickit I guess)
+ The OLED only shows some noise:
-I already rechecked the solder joints around U9 (the bridges, U9 is not populated
-I checked with another OLED Module and it behaves the same way
-I think the FAN 5331 is fine as both modules show this error

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I attached a Photo for you. Thanks a lot, especially for Sparky and Afedorov for developing and helping so much in this topic.

PS: Yes, the PCB will be cleaned of course...[/quote]


I had a similar problem, and she decided to correctly unpack the wires to the display

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2078
This is my first project of such complexity and I learned a lot here thanks to the creator of this engineering miracle

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2079
Hi!

I have drooled up and down this project as I intend to build a couple of the Unisolder 5.2.
I have a couple of PCB`s with sensors, and  I`m waiting for the parts to come. I`v ordered from Digikey and Comet. I guess I`m a little late, but i will post for help here and I hope someone will  still answer.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2080
[quote author="minkok"][quote author="max0o"][...] Unfortunately it shows only 1023 as the ADC value in the calibration submenu. I already tried to resolder the solderjoints of all the ICs in this region in order to make it less likely that it is a problem of a bad solder joint.. unfortunately no success, still 1023 :/

Any ideas what might be wrong?

Best regards[/quote]
If I can understand you, rotating  RC2 does not change the value of ADC. In that case measure the Vtemp the time of rotating RC2 and look for changing its value. It will give a direction where to look for, before or after that point and will short the search.[/quote]

I tried to measure afedorov's voltages on page 139 with some success, some voltages seemed correct while others were heavily fluctuating - but I guess that's maybe because of a layer of flux residuals which leads to a bad connection to the tips of the multimeter. So I guess I might have to repeat that if I can get hold on some better equipment with finer tips.

Then I tried your approach and measured Vtemp while rotating RC2. This seems to work, I can change Vtemp in the range of 2,x - 3,x V (not sure about the exact voltages, did that a couple of days ago and I had only two hands available for the PCB and the two tips ;)). Is that somewhat correct or what should be the voltage range of Vtemp adjustable by RC2?
Then I assumed if Vtemp seems good then it could be some problem with the bus. But all pins of U15 seem to be soldered just fine as well as all other SCL/SDA pins. I'm not so sure what the problem could be when the analog part seems to be working and the corresponding IC also..

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2081
[quote author="max0o"]Then I tried your approach and measured Vtemp while rotating RC2. This seems to work, I can change Vtemp in the range of 2,x - 3,x V (not sure about the exact voltages, did that a couple of days ago and I had only two hands available for the PCB and the two tips ;)). Is that somewhat correct or what should be the voltage range of Vtemp adjustable by RC2?
Then I assumed if Vtemp seems good then it could be some problem with the bus. But all pins of U15 seem to be soldered just fine as well as all other SCL/SDA pins. I'm not so sure what the problem could be when the analog part seems to be working and the corresponding IC also..[/quote]
Hello max0o, you go in right direction, if Vtemp is ok, you have to check soldering of U11, U15 and U17 and corresponding components, if all of that is ok, repeat the same measure of output 6p/U15 or +in 3p/U17 (which one is easier to get), when you turn RC2 (it is digital pot of 40k-60k with less value than Vtemp, depending of value defined by I2C ). Check 8p/U15 for 3.3V and (1,4 and 7)p/U15 for a GND and if Vtemp goes to 5p/U15.
I cannot give to you the right value of Vtemp in that aligning mode, if there is someone with still disassembled, but working Unisolder to measure it and to give it to you.
It will be a help for others also.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2082
Thanks for your input, I'll do that!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2083
Hi minkok,

I got hold on better equipment and I was able to measure all the voltages of page 139 as well as the one you mentioned, with the following results:

Always should voltage/measured DC voltage:
U15:8: 3.3V / 3.24V
U15:1/4: GND / 0V
U15:5: 3.124V (independently of Rc2)

Page 139:
U14:2 2.1V  / 2.0V
U12A:3 2.7V / 2.6-2.7V
current through calibration resistor ~380uA, so, voltage drop on it 3.8mV: 0mV !!
U16A:2 3.8mV / 0.68V !!
U18B:5 3.8mV / 0.68V !!
U18A:3 0V / -0.001V
U13A:1 106mV / 3.22V
U17:3 53mV / 1.547V !!
U17:6 1.5V / 3.186V !!

So I guess I have an new problem, the previously working current through the calibration resistor is not existing anymore! Any idea, what might be wrong? If I turn off the PCB and measure the resistance between the sense A and the Vout1- pads, I get the correct 10 ohm.

I guess the measurements above which are way off are to be expected if there is no current through the calibration resistor?

Also I double checked the SCL/SDA pins on all ICs. All have 1.8kOhm to the 3.3V net, which is exactly as expected since it is the pull up resistance. Also there is no short between SDA and SCL since I could measure 3.6kOhm between them (so 2x pull up resistance). So I guess that should definitely be okay.

Best regards

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #2084
You should measure  U15/ 1p, 4p and 7p if they are connected to GND
You should measure U17/ 3p – already given from Afedorov – 53mV – if it varies the time you turn RC2
If you have physically connection from U15/ 5p to R56
You already have Vtemp,  given from  Afedorov  voltage table U13A:1 106mV and you have big difference 3.22V
Now you have different problem:
If you said, you lost current through calibration resistor, you have 2 possibility:
1.Lost GND from Vout1-, you can check by  measuring if you have the same voltage to both ends of calibration resistor- can start by  measuring  HSEL – needs to be low logic level to open Q10
2. lost  the supply voltage from SENSEA – you have zero voltage to both ends of calibration resistor- you need to check U10, U12 soldering and surrounding components.
When measure SDA and SCL is better to check connection by conductivity – U10, U11 and U15 – all SDA pins have to be shorted together and to R28 pullup, the same and with SCL – to R27. I prefer that, than resistance measurement. And to work properly they need to have different addresses corresponding to sparkybg firmware.