Two quick suggestions: - if you can find a right angle antenna connector, that'd let you minimize the amount of height needed for a SoB case (which has openings on the side)...that way, you don't have to cut an opening for the antenna cable - if possible, allow ways to power the modem and other sensors up/down from the other pins or USB connector...if it can run on battery power, it might be useful for remote data gathering systems w/ solar chargers but you really want to minimize power draw if you're targeting that...
Looks like a nice small board though...and if you can get costs to be reasonable w/ a decent data speeds, it'll probably sell well :-)
The description says 10mm. You'll be limiting yourself to the somewhat low powered coin cells that start w/ 1xxx (e.g., 1225) AFAIK.
And ditto what's been said about the surface mount versions of these...I've heard they rip traces off the board because of the pressure of the coin cell, so watch for that. I'd only use the through hole versions, and even then, I'm not sure if they're going to be that reliable. The bigger ones w/ the springs cost $1.50 (almost 10x) but are much more reliable...
Out of curiosity, what do folks use for their soldering station preset temps?
Splurged a bit on the new Hakko 888D (digital version of the 888 that people seem to recommend) and it has 5 factory presets. I'm puzzled by what they chose though: 600F (316C) 700F (371C) 750F (399C) 800F (427C) 850F (454C)
I don't get why they put in the two highest values. According to their optimal temp support note, the highest temp you'd ever need is 382C (352C if you have their newer composite tips which don't work on this station): http://www.hakkousa.com/kb/Knowledgebas ... 10297.aspx
I would have put in 482F(250C) as one of their presets instead because this is what they recommend for tip cleaning...and 650F since that seems like another common temp.
These fancy soldering stations are neat...always had generic pencil irons, but figured $91 shipped is pretty damned cheap for what it is and it'll last a lifetime... :-)
Anyone know what the specs on the nuts/screws are? Finally got my order of a few of these from Seeed and it looks like it might be fine if all you use is surface mount stuff, but if you have any other components like a coin cell batter holder, stereo jacks, etc., there's no way it'll fit properly w/o higher standoffs and longer screws...
[quote author="Sjaak"]Only questions that aren't asked are dumb..! ...but the 0603 are cheaper when getting 100 boards manufactured[/quote]
Thanks Sjaak. Are 0603 cheaper because they need less silver for the solder points? Makes sense (as does two sided vs. one sided, though I wish you guys put the silkscreen on the back for the jumper settings and spaced out the 0603 components more :-)
And ditto what JuKu wrote...even if you're under 40, I think 0805's are easier to handle than 0603's. I think 0603 LEDs are more available than 0805 ones, though the 0805 ones might be brighter because they have more surface area to radiate from...can't remember where I read that though.
This is probably a dum question, but why would you use 0605 vs. 0803 resistor/leds vs. the other? And why would you avoid placing components on both sides of the board?
I'm debating putting together a DP free FT311D breakout board or buying an Android IOIO board V2 which will be more flexible. I found it odd that the FT311D breakout uses 0603 resistors and 0805 LEDs because I thought you were supposed to do the opposite? And there's silkscreen on the top where components could have been moved so they're not crammed into tight spaces to make soldering more of a PITA...would have been easier if the components were on the other side if the goal was to put silkscreen instructions on the front near the jumpers :-P
Looks like you still have lots of space (can't see the back) to add these two suggestions: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4963 and from http://dangerousprototypes.com/2012/06/ ... ments-wrap arhi's comment: "ATX supply is extremely dirty with incredibly high ripple. If you already made a PCB to get the 3,+-5,-+5 and +-12V (wait, where’s -5 ?!) out why didn’t you add some capacitance on each rail? some combo of 2x10nF + 100nF + 1uF ceramic + 10uF ceramic on each rail would improve things significantly, and adding a LC filter to 5V and 3V3 rails would be additional bonus. On top of this, at least 2 more output should exist, one 9V 1A (simple 7809 would suffice) + one VAR voltage 1-2A (317 or something similar) With regards to 5V load, I found that using a resistor is really too much of a waste of energy so I power a light from 5V. It provides proper load + can be used as backlight for a PSU case. A regular car headlight lamp can be used. It will not be as bright and hot as when it’s running at 12V (nor you want it that bright/hot), it will be cooler then the 10W resistor and will be a super useful add-on."
For the rest of the layout, I'd suggest moving the VAdj+- connectors up and into the middle of the board to cut the width of it down...looks like there might be enough space to do this too. But definitely *LOTS* better than the ATX V1.x layouts. Get a nice SoB case for this and it'll be a best seller :-)
[quote author="arakis"] If you're interested I could post the SVG laser cutting files here...[/quote]
Sure...please do. That actually looks like an interesting alternative. And please write up the quick tutorial you mentioned in the previous thread. Hypothetically, you could just create a new DP6037 case by including the top/bottom sheet and a few of the rings you sandwich in between. Then you can just dremel cutouts in a few of the sheets and you'll have a case w/ custom openings. Or sell rings w/ cutouts appropriately sized for 3.5mm jacks, RJ11 jacks, pin headers, etc.
How much did your case end up costing? 5euro (around $10 US) doesn't sound bad at all for parts that may still be reusable.
Thanks all. I'm powering it w/ a coin cell, so no need for the space for a 9V battery. The 1594B might work though it would be nice if it were a little smaller: http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1594B.pdf The Hammond stuff looks a lot better than the Serpac ones, just because they're black ;-)
But I'm surprised the Dangerous Prototypes "golden ratio" doesn't seem to be more common. None of the plastic cases I've found are an exact match for the size :-P
The other thing I've looked at is the Ponoko laser cut stuff, but that really needs some sort of tool like EagleCAD for 3D layout of everything: http://support.ponoko.com/entries/20344 ... x-tutorial Would be nice if there were a starting point for the Dangerous Prototypes boards. Looks like it'd be feasible to do a generic template w/ no holes and then people can use SketchUp to edit the template and add rough holes to get their designs to work...
Anyone know of any preferably black plastic case that would hold the 60x37 sick of beige boards? One thing that bugs me about the sick of beige cases is that the sides are open so alas, it doesn't look as "professional" as plastic case.