here is my initial interpretation of this, its a combination of a few ideas posted above.
the 64 pin are broken out down into a single line,, there are 64 columns in a standard breadboard. and the two 12pin headers on top are for additional breakouts if anyone wants to use them. They could be female type headers attached at 90 degrees, so those could be used as a breadboard in themselves. the Power header is where input power is connected, along with various bank voltages
I did that, tried with the PTH parts, but they just didn't fit. Here is a little render I did :) I should have probably used a red-er color for the pcb, oh well. BTW all the pins of the tqfp are aligned on the render :)
Well the initial idea was to have the LEDs and button, side facing. But in a hurry I decided for V1 it would be best to use regular components. Because it will be first for testing/debugging, just to see if it actually works, although I don't see why it shouldn't I'll rework them for trough hole tackle switch and .1 sil LEDs(trough hole) like arhi suggested.
Here is the latest pcb, I changed the 603 components to 805s, cleared up the USB lines, and removed some vias around crystals. Also I added a solder jumper to the ENVREG pin, Ian pointed out that some PICs might require gnd on that pin, while others require VDD. It doesn't need to be a real trough hole jumper since once the pic is soldered only one position will be used.
I made most of the changes, here is the point by point review.
1. The package I chose was all wrong, not only did it not have the soldermask, but it was also the wron size, thanks for pointing me there, otherwise I would have missed it, because the real part is smaller the whole board was rerouted :( 2.3. my drc didn't catch those, thanks, 4.5. that's intentional. 6. I only used those markers to assist me in routing, better ones will be placed 7. those are fixed now, thanks for pointing it out. 8. that's intentional 9. this will be fixed, I only used generic resistors I copied all over the board, I will change the values. 10. I agree. 11. Its a design thing ( to keep the overall board size below 5cm either way), and it is easy to chop off 2 pins of a 2x20 header to make it 2x19..
*All in all your help has been invaluable, I really appreciate it.
Wanting to built a breakout for the PIC24f256 in a 100 pin TQFT package to play around with, a came across the fact that most microchip devices taht have a usb and are in the tqfo 100 pack , use exactly the same pins for basic setup.
VDD, VSS,AVDD, AVSS, VCORE, ICSP, and USB pins are all the same, so the board I was making for the pic 24, is usable with pic32, dspic33s as well.
the board is setup so all the component other then the pic and usb are on the bottom layer, to make it easy to route and solder the pic. Added bonus is that it could be manufactured with only the pic unpopulated, thus instantly having a working breakout for any of those listed microchip devices.
[quote author="arhi"]As I mentioned on the forum, to get a true readout from the TC you really need a voltage reference. TL431 or something similar .. WRT DC laptop supply (mostly 19V these days) you might want to trigger 2 opto's. The second one (in series with MOC) should be a opto that's driving a FET. That's just another 6pin dip and another TO203 on board and you can run the device both on DC and AC :) (you simply decide to mount FET or to mount TRIAC :D )
As I mentioned once, I only fear that DC don't make iron magnetic :)[/quote]
Is it really necessary to use a Vref, since you SID obiusly works, and the temperature read is never gonna be that accurate considering we are reading the heater temp not Tip.. even so the Vref pin is broken out so testing and fideling with adding a reference is possible.
Here is a DP version of Arhi's soldering Iron driver. First, tahnks to Arhi for developing it in the first place and working with me to help out this design.
The most obvious change from his design is that it is all through hole, with only 4 jumpers used. Also the Shmitt trigger IC was dropped 'cause the input pins on the PIC are ST already. USB /UART/ICSP interfaces are all provided. And for version 1 there are a few breakout pins allowing for future prototyping, we wanna figure out if its possible to drive the Irons via a DC laptop supply, along with true PWM.
With internet being what it is, any and all software is one click away, if you don't have any moral issues with using pirated software. So if you like Altium and want to use it for your projects that are only for your eyes use what ever you feel comfortable with. If you have access to their expensive license even better for you.
The problem with open source hardware is that the design files need to be accessible to the DIY community to use, fix, add on. The standard so far has been Eagle because the free version allows you do boards that can be made professionally and still allows DIYers to have access to your design for free.
I personalty hate the autorouter in any shape or form, so Eagle is more then enough for my needs. Although the way they implemented "move group" is seriously annoying and slowing down the design process, I mean the whole world uses the left click and hold select and then click on one part and move the whole group, its the way it is done in 99% of software, not just PCB but any form of software including the file explorer which is probably the most used on a daily basis. Once you accept that this will annoy you in eagle forever you are good to go.