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Messages - timb

Bus Pirate Support / Re: i want to program the paperduino with bus pirate
Yes, very straight forward. Simply connect MOSI, MISO, CLK, 5V, GND and CS to the MOSI, MISO, CLK, Vcc, GND and RST pins respectively. Then use avrdude like you normally would! Here’s an example command that reads the fuses of a connected Mega328P:

Code: [Select]
avrdude -c buspirate -P /dev/tty.usbserial-BPv3.6 -p m328p -v

You can also load up special firmware that makes the BP act like an STK500v2; in that case you would replace:
Code: [Select]
-c buspirate
Code: [Select]
-c stk500v2

I recently needed to program some devices and don’t have a dedicated ICSP (I’m an MSP430 guy myself), so I figured the easiest way was creating an Arduino shield with a 28-pin socket, completely forgetting the Bus Pirate could do it! So I spent a night wiring up a Proto Shield I had laying around, and then a few hours banging my head against the wall when I couldn’t get it to work reliably. I thought maybe the target device needed a crystal, so I added that. Still nothing. By chance I saw the BP in the list of supported avrdude programmers and decided to wire it up directly and see if it worked. I also decided to use a different, fresh chip instead of the one in the Arduino-Programmer. It worked! …it also worked in the Arduno-Programmer… Turns out I had fried the original chip I was working with at some point. *Doh!*

At any rate the Bus Pirate works much better and is much less fiddly, as I can clip the probe leads directly to IC pins without putting it in a socket (which requires removing it, which always leads to bent pins; I’m too cheap to order a ZIF socket for something I’ll use once in a blue moon).

Bus Pirate Support / Re: Bus Pirate and Breadboard Holder
Thanks for the measurements. Do you by chance have that DXF with just the acrylic plate (with holes)? I just realized I don't have anything that can edit DXF files. That would be something I can send straight to company doing the cutting.

Bus Pirate Support / Bus Pirate and Breadboard Holder
I'm looking to get one of these cut and was wondering if somebody had a DWG/DXF or other vector/CAD version of it handy? I got the Sketchup model out of the 3D Warehouse, but unfortunately it's not scaling right for me (the thing is measuring in at thousands of inches) and without the proper dimensions I can't do much.

I mean, I guess I could measure my BP and breadboard and manually draft one up, but why reinvent the wheel, right?
Bus Pirate Support / Back feeding power pins for voltage monitoring?
Right now I'm using my Bus Pirate to sniff some I2C traffic between my Raspberry Pi and a circuit I'm working on. I've got the RPi providing 3v3 and 5v to the circuit in question. I noticed, quite by accident, that leaving the Bus Pirate's 3v3 rail hooked in would cause the VREG LED to light up. Hitting "v" to see the voltage status I was able to read the voltage coming from the RPi.

It occurs to me that being able to use the BP's 3v3 and 5v outputs as inputs could be rather handy for monitoring an external circuit's voltage rails, especially on something as power finicky as the RPi. Is it safe to do this? (Assuming I keep the BP's VREG off, of course.)

Bus Pirate Support / Re: Bus Pirate Manual link does not show much information
I'd like a full manual as well. It's really nice to have datasheets for every component in my parts bin, manuals for all my equipment and general references all synchronized to my lab computer, iPad and Kindle. (The iPad is especially a great tool considering you can annotate in GoodReader.)

For example, I referenced my Xprotolab a lot when I was just starting out. It would be great to have the same ability with the Bus Pirate. :)
Tools of the trade / Re: Cutting mylar stencils with a silohuette cameo
[quote author="xl97"]thanks..

yeah I have been thinking of getting one..

Im not familiar with red cap/blue cap?

is this the same thing you mean (the holder)?

this is what I am planning to buy.. ... 0632177982

same thing..yes?

at this point.. Im 'ok' with the results I have..

Id still like to:

1.) try the 60 degree blade to see about the tighter/smaller cuts.. (always better)

2.) like to try exporting my gerbers using another CAM job instead of the iTeadStudio one..

(Im trying to figure out why the 6mil shrink on the cream layer isnt any different than the 4mil shrink one I did and exported..

(when viewing them both in gerbv.. they are the same 'sizes'..  (although smaller than the OK without shrink version)

but it seems I am capped/limited at shrinking to 4mil?  (odd, but havent looked into too much yet)[/quote]

Yes, the "blue cap" is the CB09U holder and a "red cap" is the CB15U holder. If you get that CB09U package, make sure it includes three springs (one for each blade). (Note: CB15U blades do not need springs.)

While the aluminum holders are nice, those cheap Chinese blades won't last very long, in fact some even come from the factory dull! I highly recommend shelling out a few extra dollars and buying from Clean Cut Blade; they're really fantastic blades, all made in-house and have always outlasted OEM blades for me (and my fiancé, who does a lot of scrapbooking).

The sharpness (and ability to stay sharp) is directly proportional to the preciseness of your cuts.
Tools of the trade / Re: Making Chassis Overlays with a Cameo
Thanks for the link, that's pretty good pricing. That's a really cool story about cloning the Apple ][ PCB, I bet that was a blast. You reminded me of the first PCB I ever etched. Radio Shack used to sell a kit that included a Sharpie, copper clad board, acid and a sheet of stick on traces and eyelets. My first board was for a bench power supply I made (based on a book from RS if I recall) which I drew by hand with a ruler and Sharpie.

I know it's a lot easier to order boards, but you can't beat etching for fast turnaround! Plus, if you use a plotter to draw all the traces you don't have to worry about using photo sensitive boards.

I think I might still order a Sharpie holder and give it a try...
Tools of the trade / Re: Cutting mylar stencils with a silohuette cameo
I've been doing some research on blades and came across these (°.html) 60° angled blades that, according to a Scrapbooking forum, should give much more precise cuts with the media we're using for this.

I think that blade should be a drop-in replacement for the Cameo's blade holder, but if not you can grab a CB09U (blue cap) holder on eBay for a few bucks. I'll be ordering a few from Clean Cut Blade to see how they perform.

Edit: The http:// tag didn't like the degree sign in the link; I guess it's not UTF-8 compatible.

Edit 2: You could also pick up a CB15U (red cap) holder and these ([url]
°.html) if you want a stronger blade that will allow you to use more cutting force (to go through thicker material) without binding at the corners. Either way a 60° will give you much more precise cuts compared to the standard 45° blades.
Tools of the trade / Re: Making Chassis Overlays with a Cameo
Just tried the PLT trick on my fiancé's Cameo and it seems to word perfectly. Finally, having three digital cutting machines has payed off! (I've got a Craft Robo Pro and a Silhouette my fiancé gave me when she upgraded to the Cameo.)

You know, you can use a fiber tip pen on these machines (effectively turning them into a plotter). Has anyone tried using one to draw circuit traces on copper clad board for etching? I bet that would work a treat. I've got a fiber tip pen for my Craft Robo Pro, but it's water based so I'm not sure if it would survive the acid bath... Anyone have some thoughts on that?

Edit: Haha, well, that issue is solved: Sharpie Marker Holder Adapter for Graphtec Vinyl Cutter
Tools of the trade / Re: Making Chassis Overlays with a Cameo
If you have a Silhouette SD, you can cut directly from within Adobe Illustrator 10-CS6 and Corel Draw by using the Cutting Master 2 plugin. (Windows - Mac)

This also works with the bigger, more expensive Craft Robo Pro, though you'll want the new version for that. (Cutting Master 3)

Basically, the way it works is you make your design in AI and put your cuts on a separate layer (which you can hide while printing). The plugin will add registration marks to a new layer for you as well. Once you've got everything printed and ready, you click the cut button, tell it which layer you want, make any adjustments and then it'll take care of the rest. All without leaving AI!

While the Craft Robo Pro is expensive ($800+), you can easily find great deals on the now discontinued Silhouette SD.

Unfortunately, none of the Cutting Master plugins work with the Cameo, but I've found a hack to make it work! Cutting Master 2 and Cutting Master 3 both have an option called Output PLT to File... These PLT files are directly compatible with the file2graphtec program that's included in the gerber2graphtec package! All you need to do is export to PLT and run file2graphtec on it, it's that simple. :D

So, if you own a Cameo/Portrait, now you can cut from directly inside Adobe Illustrator!