PAW4 - RetroTime

[matseng]

for the coin cell i suggest changing the center pad to a circle the size of the cell, the solder mask around the pad can prevent contact with the pad.

Done. I usually put a small blob of solder in the pad to raise it up a bit, but here there's no other tracks passing under the battery holder so the increased pad size -method works fine here.

Does the PCB manufacturer accept inner angles this sharp or do you need to make remarks on the outline to get it made right?

I've no idea... I hope that they will mill as close as possible to the outline in accordance to their bit size, and that they leave "unreachable" board rather than taking away extra to reach the edge. I'm sure they will complain if it will destroy the pcb. I fear that asking them (Seeedstudio) how it should be done and what they can handle would just result in some random incomprehensible google-translated reply. So I'll just try and see what happens. :-)

If not I propose one small change. To the led drive traces nudge them apart and add "solder jumper" to each. So the arms can be sawn off and extended with wires.

That's a fun idea. Why not.... Were would the best cutoff point be you think?

[matseng]

Ok, only a connector to the power is left to add. But I can't decide what type of contact that would be best... I'm open to suggestions.

[systemstech]

I think you can use a 2" pvc pipe cap for a case, just cut out a slot for each leg of the clock and mount it flush with the edge of the cap. This will allow you to put a Strain Relief on the cap and not on the board. I don't think the pads on the board can take the weight of a six ft cord and a wall wart. The distance off the wall with a cap will make for that much more of a splash of light on the wall. You could also put batteries inside the cap so you don't have to have that ugly cord hanging from the clock on your wall.

[systemstech]

@matseng;

Have you decided what design to put on the front of the board yet?

[matseng]

I'm thinking of something like this...

It must be single color and not be too intricate or else Eagle will have a hissy fit complaining of too many objects. I'm open for suggestions.

[systemstech]

I think the second pic would drive me crazy but it's cool. Any psychedelic two tone pattern from the '60's should do just fine. Although
That would limit the users that would understand what decade the pattern came from, considering that the average age on DP is around 25yrs old. LOL

[sqkybeaver]

how about a big DP logo, then we can all show some love!

[matseng]

how about a big DP logo, then we can all show some love!

Yea, maybe that. And then just do some concentric circles on each "leaf" do get something there as well. Or maybe number 1..12 on them.

But this not an official dp project so I'm not 100% convinced that it's a really good idea. I'll check with Ian and get his opinion to hear what he thinks about using his logo here.

[sqkybeaver]

But this not an official dp project so I'm not 100% convinced that it's a really good idea. I'll check with Ian and get his opinion to hear what he thinks about using his logo here.

just an idea, i love where this project is going so far!

[matseng]

Like this then? But it would probably be better with all of it in reverse.... Or at least the numbers in reverse.

[sqkybeaver]

Or at least the numbers in reverse.

i love it a backwards clock!

[systemstech]

What happens if you put the second pattern in the background and add the numbers and DP logo in the foreground or floating above the pattern?

[AndThen]

If not I propose one small change. To the led drive traces nudge them apart and add "solder jumper" to each. So the arms can be sawn off and extended with wires.

That's a fun idea. Why not.... Were would the best cutoff point be you think?

Anywhere between the GR# and the trace that returns to the center (control line?) would be fine if it is behind a picture frame it would not be seen. But can you fit pads there? I imagine they might need offset from one another.

Regarding the face:
The second example looks more retro to me. These old clocks usually had sun motifs with copper rays. I'm imagining a sticker face covering, so it could be anything, zebra strips or patterned copper.

You could really piss eagle off and shrink the DP warning and use it for step and repeat =)

I might of missed it above, what size is this?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Vynil_record.jpg , 45 rpm record face maybe with the 33-45 rpm adapter glued to the clock. Perhaps an old graphical 33, with a bad scratch on one side so as not to piss off the collectors.

*edit: forgot to mash preview "fixed" image

[MickM]

Hi;
I think numbers are redundant.
My clocks have none.
I would remove the "Blob" at the end completely.

Mick M

[matseng]

What happens if you put the second pattern in the background and add the numbers and DP logo in the foreground or floating above the pattern?

It would probably just become a mess .... :-)

I think numbers are redundant. My clocks have none.
I would remove the "Blob" at the end completely.

Yes, I think we can be without the numbers, they look out of place here. But having the blobs at the end of each arm is an integral part of the overall design idea, so I'll keep them.

I might of missed it above, what size is this?

I' will see what I can do with cutoff point idea.

The clock is rather smallish, only 10 cm (4 inch) across. If they look and work as I think/hope they will I might do a larger version. But the price of the pcb will go up quite a bit then. 20 cm (8 inch) is $12 each and 30 cm (12 inch) is almost $25 each in 50 quantity.

Paper printout of PAW 4