Dangerous Soldering Iron driver V1.5(based on Arhi's gen3)

[arhi]

check your connection, if you have hakko 907 and you select it, and it again ask for sensor type it means that it's reading temp that's outside of regular range so it asks again for the sensor .. so either you didn't connect the sensor properly or you didn't go trough calibration procedure and you didnt't calibrate the driver (you have 2 pot's that you need to set to proper values)

calibration:

1. calibrate 1mA trough RTD
instead of sensor, just push your ampermeter in the PTC slots of the board, turn the board on and set CAL1 pot so that you can see 1mA going trough ampermeter.

2. calibrate PTC amplifier gain (to =30)
instead of sensor, attach a 100R 1% (or better) resistor to the PTC connector
remove jumper from JP1
measure voltage on the top pin and turn RV2 until you get 3.00V exactly

[Eisenhorn]

Thank you, now it's working. I already did this, but then I was playing with RV2, and apparently that was a mistake.
I have one more question. Always when I power it up, it asks me for the sensor type and I have to set it up every time. Is this normal?

[arhi]

no it is not normal, this is something someone else reported too but I was not able to reproduce that problem... if you have pickit set sensor to hakko and then turn the device off and read the eeprom from 18f2550 and see if values are written to eeprom... I seen report that value is not written to eeprom and in that case sid will always ask you to select sensor. The other reason that it will ask you to select sensor is if it's reading "too cold" or "too hot" when you turn it on.. I'm in middle of the "move to another appt" so I can't check it out but quickest way to solve that is to just change firmware and lock it to HAKKO sensor by default... it's very simple patch I'm sure you will be able to do it :)

[arakis]

possibly a config errror during programing...aka the epprom is locked or something of the sort... Eisenhorn if you're unsuccessful amending the code yourself, send me the links where and which code you downloaded and I'll check it out...

[Eisenhorn]

I'll try to do it by myself, I like programming challenges. I am just not familiar with PIC programming and MPLAB, but I'll do my best to make it work. If not, I'll ask you guys for some help. I am using this firmware. Thank you for now.

[arhi]

get the firmware from here: http://sid.crsndoo.com/

[neslekkim]

I got the pcb's from Seed the other day, (two weeks ago :) )
And was planning to start soldering the parts I have, sockets, resistors and such, but I noticed that the bom looks a bit off:

http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Pat ... evelopment
For resistors I find this:

R1-R21,R10-R21,R13-R17,R20-R24 = 10k
So, one would think that r1 through r21 are 10k, but why is it listed r10-r21 also?, and r13-r17?
And further down you find:
R4 =220k
R5 =1k
R8 =47
I find similar situation for caps etc.
So either I don't understand anymore how to read an componentlist, or something have gone wrong.
With these Seed pcb's which schema+bom+etc is correct?

[arhi]

schema is same for both but annotation is different so the schema and bom on the link you posted should work. When Arakis return from PRC he might fix it .... afaik they exported that bom from eagle, donno why it messed up like that

[neslekkim]

So if the schema was available, and I opened up in eagle I would be able to navigate around the board and find correct info?
could not find the schema on that wiki page, but i can still wait, huge amount of components missing still.

[arhi]

original eagle files should be in the SVN ( http://dangerous-prototypes-open-hardwa ... %20Driver/ ) .. I hoped DP will get their files in order (schematic, bom etc) when they start selling the pcb but looks like they have other plans :(

[MickM]

Hi neslekkim;
To generate a partslist from Eagle:
File -> Export -> Partlist

Navigate to your folder.
File_name: partlist.txt

Generates the attached file.

Mick M

[neslekkim]

Thanks!, that was a lot better list.

[Dai101]

Hi!. First post in this great place, love to thinkering with electronics although i've never studied properly. Anyway, i've been on the look for a cheap, robust and quality soldering station and i found some places where you can build your own and that's awesome. Then happened to came here and i've to tell you this is great. I hope to begin this project soon. I'll keep an eye here in the meantime.

Thanks and see you around.

[arhi]

cheap, robust and quality soldering station

hakko fx888

[arakis]

also buying one of hakko clone soldering stations would serve you for a long tine, and the replacement parts are dirt cheap...