My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:20 pm

Image

Connect together Vout and TC+ to "+" of the tip (the thinnest terminal) and GND to "-" of the tip (the middle terminal). That's it. Nothing more.

If the tip was red hot and the controller showed 23 degrees, probably the connections were the opposite. If not, then you must have some other problem. Try connecting TC+ and GND only, and leave "Vout" unconnected. Then try heating the tip with cigarette lighter. You should see the temperature rising on the display.

Both pots of the amplifier should be around the middle scale while you are doing this.

And again: R20 should be 7.5k, and C20 and C21 should not be connected.. I've updated the schematic with these changes.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby equalizor » Sun Aug 23, 2015 4:11 pm

I've disconnected the v out and heated the tip with my hot air tool, and got the correct reading with potr calibration against my multimeter with thermocouple.

But the temperature just rises and rises once I've connected v out. No idea what's going on unless the mosfets are shot or something
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:24 am

Look at the dot of the screen. If the dot blinks and finally turns off, but the temperature continues to rise, then there is a problem with MOSFETs ot their control circuitry.

Set the target temperature to 150 degrees, don't connect the Vout, start heating the tip with the lighter. The dot should glow at the beginning, then start to blink when you are near 150 degrees, and should turn off when the reading becomes more than 150 degrees. If it behaves this way, then there is a problem with MOSFETs or their control.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby neslekkim » Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:58 am

Nobody exported the BOM for this project?

edit: shit, forget this, I was in the wrong thread..
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby luklf01 » Wed Sep 30, 2015 4:33 am

sparkybg wrote:Can you measure the voltage on RB3 terminal with oscilloscope?

hello sparkybg
i also just finished soldering that controller , everything is connected maiboard + backboard transformer is used polish indel 24V finally when i power up it with hex loaded it beeps using buzzer for 1 second and that beeping sound going lower lower and dissapear also display is not working the pic controller got 5V supply the C8 capacitor 220uF 50V connected before LM2675M got 28V !
and also what the hell is the RB3 terminall to check ??!?!?! i have digitall oscilloscope and i can check this point too but no idea where is this point
thanks
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Wed Sep 30, 2015 4:53 am

PB3(Port B, bit 3) termnal of the MCU should have "smashed" sine wave on it with amplitude of around 3.5-3.9V.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby luklf01 » Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:10 am

sparkybg wrote:PB3(Port B, bit 3) termnal of the MCU should have "smashed" sine wave on it with amplitude of around 3.5-3.9V.
here is capture from that point using oscilloscope width = 10.70ms feq= 50.0hz
also why i got 28V on C8 capacitor if transformer have 24VAC and hakko tip should receive near that voltage too ?
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:38 am

You should get something like this on RB3:
Image


Don't worry for C8 votage - it is completely OK. This is more or less rectified AC voltage. 24VAC means 24*1.414=34V peak voltage. When you rectify this voltage, and put a filter capacitor after the rectifier you will get 34V on this filter capacitor (less 1-2 diode drops).

The tip is not connected to C8 - it gets unfiltered rectified voltage with the same RMS votage as transformer RMS votage. C8 is there only to provide votage for the LM chip, i.e. the power of the MCU and amplifiers. It has nothing to do with the heater of the iron.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby luklf01 » Wed Oct 07, 2015 3:36 pm

sparkybg wrote:You should get something like this on RB3:
Image


Don't worry for C8 votage - it is completely OK. This is more or less rectified AC voltage. 24VAC means 24*1.414=34V peak voltage. When you rectify this voltage, and put a filter capacitor after the rectifier you will get 34V on this filter capacitor (less 1-2 diode drops).

The tip is not connected to C8 - it gets unfiltered rectified voltage with the same RMS votage as transformer RMS votage. C8 is there only to provide votage for the LM chip, i.e. the power of the MCU and amplifiers. It has nothing to do with the heater of the iron.

hi
finally i flash correct hex file and station is working , but something is completly damaged or .. ?
when i put T12 tip and setup to 250C then temperature start rising and when it reach 250C it start going up 251C 252C 258C after start going down faster from 258C 250C and when it reach center point = 250C it drastically going down very fast to 200C then 150C
now... when i replace T12 handle with hakko 936 handle and when it reach for example 250C it going up and down + - 10C finally when i leave it hot and going to make coffe and back these jumps are stabilise and it jumping beetwen + - 1 - 3 C (this is happens only on 936 handle) on hakko T12 there are crazy things happend which i noticed at begin of that post
i did manipulate with VR2 and found that sometimes it helps to stabilise those temperature jumps (i guess is for calibrate reall temp equall to the LED temperature showed already right ? ) by manipulating VR1 i just calibrate temp. for hakko 937 handle
or maybe VR2 is for setup those temp. jumping case only ? not for calibrate..
can you help me with that ? thanks
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Wed Oct 07, 2015 4:38 pm

For T12, set it at 350, then leave if for a while. It will stabilize in 20-30 seconds. When you put it next time if will stabilise faster. Some T12 behave strange on first heat up. Something in the tip needs to be heated up to 350 degrees at least one time tu function properly. Also, some T12 tips show erratic behavior and cannot stabilize at all. Try another tip, better with a different shape.

For Hakko 936, if you soldered C20 and C21 on the front PCB, remove them. It should work OK after the removal. Of course, you should uncomment the "25W ordynary iron with K thermocouple" in PID.h and comment the JBC C245 section, then recompile the firmware. If it still does not work, something is wrong with the hardware.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby luklf01 » Wed Oct 07, 2015 5:46 pm

sparkybg wrote:For T12, set it at 350, then leave if for a while. It will stabilize in 20-30 seconds. When you put it next time if will stabilise faster. Some T12 behave strange on first heat up. Something in the tip needs to be heated up to 350 degrees at least one time tu function properly. Also, some T12 tips show erratic behavior and cannot stabilize at all. Try another tip, better with a different shape.

For Hakko 936, if you soldered C20 and C21 on the front PCB, remove them. It should work OK after the removal. Of course, you should uncomment the "25W ordynary iron with K thermocouple" in PID.h and comment the JBC C245 section, then recompile the firmware. If it still does not work, something is wrong with the hardware.

hold on
1. (or T12, set it at 350, then leave if for a while. It will stabilize in 20-30 seconds. When you put it next time if will stabilise faster. Some T12 behave strange on first heat up. Something in the tip needs to be heated up to 350 degrees at least one time tu function properly. Also, some T12 tips show erratic behavior and cannot stabilize at all. Try another tip, better with a different shape.) answer - i testing this on genuine hakko T12 spatula tips also on chinese one like T12-I and the window of rising/falling temperature is even wider on spatula original tips than chinese T12-I it goes up to 250C and going down to 150C faster up to 250C etc.
2. when i starting screw VR1 potentiometer i changing the rising/falling time speed of temp. why ?
so what the hell for VR1 and VR2 ? for calibrate the tip or calibrate the rising/falling time temperature of tip ?
3. dont play with C files and manually compille it , just the second CX8 hex files loaded from downloaded files , maybe thats the problem with these crazy things happend ? and i need to fix this: (he "25W ordynary iron with K thermocouple" in PID.h and comment the JBC C245 section) ?
4. dont puts any C20 and C21 capacitor just all is equal 1:1 to latest schematic from yours first post i just modiffy the PCB to fit on crap AOYUE 2930 case
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Thu Oct 08, 2015 2:17 am

Do you have the oscillogram I posted? If it look drastically different from my picture, you have a sync problem, and this behavior will be a result of it.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby luklf01 » Thu Oct 08, 2015 3:11 am

sparkybg wrote:Do you have the oscillogram I posted? If it look drastically different from my picture, you have a sync problem, and this behavior will be a result of it.

hi
previous oscilogram was from wrong hex file loaded to the station it wont display even :)
after i load second and it run like it run
anyway for now i does not have time to fighting with it maybe after 1 - 2 weeks i will compille firmware myself
check it also i will record video how it working and put here
one question to use with that station PACE TD100 handle tips do i need to modiffy something in pic code ? or it will run them correct without any modiffications ? these tips are 24V too ?
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby sparkybg » Thu Oct 08, 2015 3:19 am

TD100 must run like Т12 without modifications. Although PACE tips have lower resistance, the controller does not have any problems driving them.
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Re: My HAKKO classic and T12/T15 soldering controller

Postby luklf01 » Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:56 pm

@sparkybg
inside mine T12 handle there is a small tantalum capacitor soldered with power wires beetwen + and -
so maybe that capacitor cause all of these problems because you said the power for T12 tips must be recifited but not filtered ? do i need to remove it ?
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