HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron driver

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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Sat Dec 10, 2011 6:07 pm

Here is the box I use for solomon and the one I prepared for hakko
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IMG_5606.JPG
The new aluminium box for the hakko
IMG_5605.JPG
The 16F690 version running ThermoCouple sensored SOLOMON
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby ian » Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:44 am

You can get our V1 PCB now, but it only nominally supports one of the iron types, the other should work ok.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arakis » Wed Dec 14, 2011 6:17 am

I have an idea on how to port this to a Laptop supply... everything remains the same except the heater driver. Here we use a buck/boost converter that will be controlled directly by 3 PIC pins. 2 to drive mosfets and one for feedback. Since it is a heater the stability doesn't need to be perfect.
I tested a simple PWM 30V dc driving the irons Solomon, and Weller and no magnetization was noticed form the tips.
best regards FIlip.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Wed Dec 14, 2011 6:44 am

If you already have a fet, what's the point of heating the insides of the driver with a buck ? you just drive the fet with pwm and it will work ?! What's the point of wasting 3 pic pins when one will work just as well
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arakis » Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:40 am

well lap top PSU are 19V, ant that's only 30W for a 24V 50W pencil, a Boost converter is needed. Also 24VAC gives ?30V dc when rectified.. in which case a buck converter is needed. thus we uses a Bust/buck to drive it an all the problems are solved... since this is intended for a future version, in which a larger pic will be used 3 pins wont be an issue
best regards FIlip.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:15 pm

interesting ... but 24vdc switchers are available very cheap ... you need to push 2A into heater so you will need a 4A rated coil ... those are big, expensive and not easy to source. Compared to that 4A 24VDC switcher cost few bucks on ebay :D
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arakis » Wed Dec 14, 2011 6:03 pm

I've found some coils on mouser SMD type 6.5Amps 10uH <100mOhm... less then a buck
All of the parts together to make this buck boost shouldn't take more then 2 USD.. probably a lot closer to 1, I ll drup a schematic when I get some time....Eagle off course :D
best regards FIlip.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Thu Dec 15, 2011 3:17 am

10uH will be pretty low or you plan to do switching in megahertz range ?
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arakis » Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:22 am

I thought we could use one of those High-Speed PWMs on some high end dspics :D 1Mhz... actualy if I use the mc34063 calculator for a boost circuit, at 500khz with 1V swing (which is more then acceptable) Lmin is 1.7uH and Cout is ~8uF.

19 to 24, 2A output boost..

*BTW those high-speed PWM peripherals are pure awesomeness here is a data sheet
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/70645C.pdf

feature list:
The High-Speed PWM module consists of the following major features:
• Up to seven PWM generators, each with an individual time base
• Two PWM outputs per PWM generator
• Individual period and duty cycle for each PWM output
• Duty cycle, dead time, phase shift and frequency resolution equal to the system clock source (TOSC)
• Independent fault and current-limit inputs for up to 14 PWM outputs
• Redundant Output mode
• Independent Output mode (this feature is not available on all devices)
• Push-Pull Output mode
• Complementary Output mode
• Center-Aligned PWM mode
• Output override control
• Special Event Trigger
• PWM capture feature
• Prescaler for input clock
• ADC triggering with PWM
• Independent PWM frequency, duty cycle and phase shift changes
• Leading-Edge Blanking (LEB) functionality
• Dead time compensation
• Output clock chopping
best regards FIlip.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arakis » Thu Dec 15, 2011 6:39 am

here is the theory of operation with two fets and 2 diodes.
http://www.eetimes.com/design/automotiv ... lectronics
*ps there is page to as well...it shows current flow charts..
best regards FIlip.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Thu Dec 15, 2011 7:10 am

Yes if you go with high frequency the 10uH will work ... might not be the bad idea after all ... you need to test it in real life :)
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arakis » Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:57 am

jup I am waiting on some boards to arrive, they are intended to run 3 pin computer fans, and they are buck only, but It should give us a good ideo on how this might work, also I'll probably make a single layer DIY SMD board just to test out the Buck Bust circuit.
best regards FIlip.
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:59 pm

PACE ST-50E finally arrived with TD-100 hand peace.

Image

When pcb's for new SID arrive from ITead I will finally be able to compare SID with a professional driver :D
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:37 pm

Some "interesting" observations of this PACE station

  • Tips cost 10-15$ (so as much as the whole old generation hakko pencil!!) but tip is "everything", inside of the tip is sensor, heater ... so the hand piece is actually just a nicely carved piece of plastic nothing else .. not a bad thing as you will never have dead heater, wrong sensor etc etc and the sensor is inside the tip positioned so that it can get the tip temperature best way it can
  • Positioning of the sensor allow super accurate temperature control of the tip, when you start soldering with hakko or solomon the sensor is too far away from the actual tip so you have huge lag on the temp drop while here the moment you start using your tip the sensor knows
  • Super accurate temperature readout allow for one great option "Set Back" temperature. You set (in the menu) what time you want for the "set back" function (you can select 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 or 90 minutes). If you do not use the iron for this amount of time (I tested it soldering a single joint resets the timer) the iron goes into set back mode where it drops the temperature of the tip to 170C and that preserves your tip. Before it goes into set back mode (10sec before) it starts blinking. The second you touch something with your soldering iron (or you press the up button) it start heating up again.
  • Just as there's a set back, so there's also a "power off" :). If you are for X minutes in set back mode - it will power off, great ha, you don't worry if you leave soldering iron turned on any more :D

There are other nice things like holder sensor (That I do not have as you get that separately) where your iron holder sends signal (probably just a switch) when you put iron on the holder so it immediately goes into set back (or after xyz seconds/minutes) and immediately start heating up when you lift it .. the "offset" button (no idea what it actually does yet :D ) etc etc .. yes there's also a password protection and you can set min and max set temperatures etc etc ... the holder is great, the hand peace is great, the cable is solder proof :D ... You can "live" change tips. There's a piece of "rubber" that I got that you use to take out the hot tip and push a new one in so you do not need to wait for your tip to cool of before you change it... time to get from 24C to 300C is incredible .. it's like 15seconds .. I'm still confused .. but that's all another story .. most features I'm interested implementing are in the top part of this post :D
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Re: HAKKO (907ESD) and SOLOMON (SL-10/30) soldering iron dri

Postby arhi » Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:59 pm

arakis wrote:well lap top PSU are 19V, ant that's only 30W for a 24V 50W pencil, a Boost converter is needed. Also 24VAC gives ?30V dc when rectified.. in which case a buck converter is needed. thus we uses a Bust/buck to drive it an all the problems are solved... since this is intended for a future version, in which a larger pic will be used 3 pins wont be an issue


Thinking a bit about this ... if you make a buck/bust switcher to power the iron you can actually use the same circuit to drive the darn thing. Instead of making a 30VDC source and then allow PID to switch it, you can merge the heater control with the voltage generation circuit so you can push 0-30VDC into heater ... might work as you don't care too much about how "clean" the output voltage is..
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