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Topic: Really universal soldering controller (Read 817818 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5370
Thanks, I will order REF3130. It is a pitty not for sale I do not have the time to make this myself, if you are interested please msg.


 

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5372
@sparkybg I have a question regarding the firmware. My friend chaolun has notice that the ID recognition for JBC 245 is not that accurate (for example it shows 1805 normally but randomly changes to 1905 or 1806 etc.) He dig into the code and found something interesting. I was wondering when @sparkybg is calculating IDHash[25], did you use 3.3v (instead of 3.0v from REF3030) as your reference voltage? I discussed with chaolun and Catear but I did not have an answer to whether this is intentional or you used wrong reference voltage?

Code is here

for(i = 0; i <= 24; i++)if(w < IDHash)break;
CID.v[0] = i;

Below is the example of pseudo code
Suppose R=150ohm, ADC readout “w” = 1024*3.3*150/((1000+150)*3.0) = 146.92.
int w = 146.
for i = 5, w<IDHash[5]143 == false; continue;
for i = 6, w=146<IDHash[6]161 == true; break;
CID.v[0] = i; ,which is 6.

3.3V (the MCU power) is used for ID resistors.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5373
Anyone has info about this board? Is good? I should something change?
Can be opened with easyeda

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5374
3.3V (the MCU power) is used for ID resistors.
I restudied the code yesterday and you are correct. It is indeed 3.3v. I did some simulation on the LM2675 in the past few days and realized that 330uh might be too much of inductance for LM2675. (TI documents suggests an inductance between 47uh-100uh) I know that large inductors help reducing ripple current but large inductance combined with large output capacitor (C4) will make the buck converter potentially unstable. Bode Plot simulation suggests that the Phase Margin is too low for current configuration, and things goes even worse for those who uses low ESR caps for (C4). Either way, it is better to lower the inductance of L1 to either 68uH or 100uH, and add a small capacitance Cff (feedforward capacitor), ranging from 1nf-10nf, depending on inductance of L1 and C4. Cff will be installed parallel to R3. Just my humble opinions.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5375
I restudied the code yesterday and you are correct. It is indeed 3.3v. I did some simulation on the LM2675 in the past few days and realized that 330uh might be too much of inductance for LM2675. (TI documents suggests an inductance between 47uh-100uh) I know that large inductors help reducing ripple current but large inductance combined with large output capacitor (C4) will make the buck converter potentially unstable. Bode Plot simulation suggests that the Phase Margin is too low for current configuration, and things goes even worse for those who uses low ESR caps for (C4). Either way, it is better to lower the inductance of L1 to either 68uH or 100uH, and add a small capacitance Cff (feedforward capacitor), ranging from 1nf-10nf, depending on inductance of L1 and C4. Cff will be installed parallel to R3. Just my humble opinions.
and for LM2675-3.3, is both R3 and R4 supposed to be 0ohm? as LM2675-3.3 has an internal high side resistor (R3) of 4.32kohm, internal low side resistor of 2.5kohm (R4).

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5376
st and ht only represent that the state has changed, but it does not mean that the temperature has been reached, so when the sleep pcb is unstable, the state will change back and forth, but the temperature is too late to change.

Hi Catear,

The strange thing is that I have absolutely no sign of noise when I use the newest BSS138 N channel mosfet version of the sleep sensor that Minkok designed. On the C245, there is no problem at all, only the C210 behaves weird with the constant switching between ST/HT. The sleep sensor works perfectly otherwise.

An easy solution would be to add an option in the FW to remove the beep signal once ST temp has been reached, and the option to remove the HT/STWT indication in the screen.

Would you be able to provide an updated FW like that?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5377
I have some problem with instrument detection.
It shows no instrument and the IRON ID in Calibration it first showed 0505. Then I redid solder joints on Q11, Q10 and U2.
Now it shows 0E05. (should be 1805 for T245)

The problem should be somewhere with Q10 right? Since the resistor between Vout1- and ID is not read properly?
The resistor measures at 150ohm. (Actually while the controller is on it seems to measure at like 170ohm, when its off it's 150, idk how that happens)

I captured the id check with oscilloscope.
Yellow = HSEL (at U2)
Pink = ID (at the header J6)
Blue = Gate of Q10
Green = Gate of Q11
X

Any ideas what else I should check?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5378
Hi again. I redesigned the contact sensing board. Hot, direct from the working table, Now it is much simpler and I expect to work more smoot. Again it has 2000V protection ( static and peak ). Use 20V GS for the BSS138 version. That sch has not so strong output filtering compared to the last and is more stable. Unfortunately, it is not tested, use at own responsibility, the time someone checked it and confirm. Now I publish only one board and sch

I can report that this version is working very well indeed. There is no hint of noise in the software graphs in the cool down phases from work temp to holder temp, and from holder temp to sleep temp. Also, the holder is immune to my hand touching the plates. Tip change works flawlessly as well.

I used BSS138 mosfets, and 150k resistors for R5 and R6.

Good work Minkok!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5379
I can report that this version is working very well indeed. There is no hint of noise in the software graphs in the cool down phases from work temp to holder temp, and from holder temp to sleep temp. Also, the holder is immune to my hand touching the plates. Tip change works flawlessly as well.

I used BSS138 mosfets, and 150k resistors for R5 and R6.

Good work Minkok!
Thank you Doomedahab for your efforts and for sharing your experience with the new revision TR boards. Maybe you mean, you use 150k for R5 & 7

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5380
Thank you Doomedahab for your efforts and for sharing your experience with the new revision TR boards. Maybe you mean, you use 150k for R5 & 7

R5 and R7, correct, typing error.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5381
I have some problem with instrument detection.
It shows no instrument and the IRON ID in Calibration it first showed 0505. Then I redid solder joints on Q11, Q10 and U2.
Now it shows 0E05. (should be 1805 for T245)

The problem should be somewhere with Q10 right? Since the resistor between Vout1- and ID is not read properly?
The resistor measures at 150ohm. (Actually while the controller is on it seems to measure at like 170ohm, when its off it's 150, idk how that happens)
...
Any ideas what else I should check?
Actually for a single tool we have 2 resistors by Q!0 and Q11 switching. You have clean oscillograms, which means Q2 and Q8 work correctly. Look at the pull-up  R24 ( for 5.2C ) for good soldering and double the J8, J4/p3 with extra cable

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5382
Actually for a single tool we have 2 resistors by Q!0 and Q11 switching. You have clean oscillograms, which means Q2 and Q8 work correctly. Look at the pull-up  R24 ( for 5.2C ) for good soldering and double the J8, J4/p3 with extra cable

Thank you, got it to properly read the ID resistors work by redoing both connectors and Q2 and Q8.

But sadly now it just permanently says heater open unless I short Vout1- and Vout1+ then it starts heating the wire used to short it and displays room temp (as one would expect when doing that or not? Idk maybe it should actually show sensor open xD since I disconnected the iron). Weird part through is, I can measure like 3.5Ohm from the iron (C245 tip) at were I short it and J2, so there should not be a connection problem from there to the iron.

Any chance you know through which components it goes to measure the resistance? Also could this be cause by maybe not 100% correct calibration? Also on my 2nd Frontboard it works properly with this backboard. Only my main (first assembled front board) does the heater open.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5383
Thank you, got it to properly read the ID resistors work by redoing both connectors and Q2 and Q8.
The idea was that you have failed J4, J8 cable, soldering won't help you unless you replace it, moreover, the "SHUNT" signal is what you need and passes through it - pin5. My guess is the time you play with soldering, you move ( heated ) that cable and that was changes for.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5384
The idea was that you have failed J4, J8 cable, soldering won't help you unless you replace it, moreover, the "SHUNT" signal is what you need and passes through it - pin5. My guess is the time you play with soldering, you move ( heated ) that cable and that was changes for.
Yeah sorry, should have mentioned that a 2nd back board was read fine by the same frontboard + same cable (changed them multiple times and actually tried a 2nd cable too) so I was fairly sure it is not the cable itself. That is why I redid the connector and Q2 and Q8 instead. I am fairly certain that one of the legs of Q2 was actually not properly connected (maybe with high resistance).

Thank you, will see were the SHUNT/SGND goes on the front board an see if I find any faults along the way there on the none working frontboard. (like U13 and PIN12 of U5)