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Topic: Really universal soldering controller (Read 811271 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5295
Werva,  I have your same problem, I have replaced U12, U13, U17, U18 and still same problem and been fighting this for the past 2 weeks almost. I have started removed around the trimmer area and found a surprise in my case, D18, D19, Q19 and Q22 blow up in my case. Hope it helps, I am wait for these to arrive. I am worried that I did damage to  U12, U13, U17, U18. Anyway I can test them out now they real microchip if they are not damaged again.  I had the same issue of Snow, after I told him the problem Lovediy said that I did something wrong and since then never replied back which scks to leave us like this.




Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5297
These are the photos of my board, maybe someone will find something disturbing

This is the 1st time I am seeing back and front from LoveDiy and I can notice some parts are equivalent.

The other parts that are listed in BOM are most likely fake such as the U5, the genuine one does not have that colour.
If I forget the above it looks good.  It has some minor defects in soldering which I would not leave on the PCB however that is me that I want it perfect and it should not affect in any way the performance.


Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5299
I do not have a camera that can focus that little detail what I have is my mobile S20 which is very bad at focus. My U5 is also yellow paint like WerVa shall we change it or  does not make difference that it is not real? I should have more parts soon and hope it will fix this 511c.


Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5300
maybe someone will find something disturbing

D8  BAT46W - marking L6,    BAT46WH - marking DB.
your PCB are assembled from non-original components by 80%.


Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5302
your PCB are assembled from non-original components by 80%.

What about the poor soldering and burnt Cap film :(, if I ever do that mistake it will cost me a new cap but since I pay attention I will never do that. If this board was not for sale, it will be good but if you are going to sell something I cannot accept that you give a board that was in a tornado, almost nothing is aligned and attention to soldering detail is NULL.

Re Fake U5, It is a clone and it should perform like a genuine one so I do not think it is the issue here but if you are going to cheat with the MCU for 2USD why I have to trust the rest of the components.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5303
it's a good saying "A miser pays twice".

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5304
Hi guys.

I bought allready soldered together Unisolder from tindie.
When assembling it, i mistakenly reversed polarity on DC input.
I fixed this by replacing all 4 diodes for MBR2060CD.
Unisolder springed to life. I am using it with JBC 245 (clone) and original JBC cartidges.

But there is still something weird happening:
When I turn on the unisolder (after it has been turned off for at least 5 minutes) evertyhing works normally and OK. Cartridge heats up, and works perfectly.
But if I swap cartridge it only says NO INSTRUMENT. Same thing happens if you turn off and back on station immediately after it has been powered on previously.
Since I thought that this is obvious problem with handle, i soldered crocodile wires on connector.
With that I learned something new: If you connect all 3 crocodiles on cartridge, you cannot get it to work except if you disconnect the "red" wire until it displays temperature (for very short time aka 0,5s) and then quickly reconnect it. This method works every time.

What can I check and or replace so that I could swap out cartridges and it would work normally?
Tried reflashing sofware over usb from sparkybg github, no change in behavior.

When it actually works, it works perfectly.
IMHO best soldering iron I ever seen :)

Thanks for any info.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5305
What can I check and or replace so that I could swap out cartridges and it would work normally?

Try to Remove the sleep PCB they are known to give issues that's why there are more than one version, if it works fine without Sleep PCB then try the new PCB from @minkok it works perfectly.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5306
Try to Remove the sleep PCB they are known to give issues that's why there are more than one version, if it works fine without Sleep PCB then try the new PCB from @minkok it works perfectly.

If by sleep PCB you mean PCB 15x25mm PCB that was included in package, i dont have it connected at all. And Im not even planning to, since it isnt neccessary?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5307
if it shows 511, then something is wrong with signal path or reference. In order for MCU to detect "sensor open/no instrument" condition, the ADC should go to it's maximum value of 1023. 511 on screen means that it does not go to 1023, but to a value less than this. This means that either the current sources, the amplifiers, the reference, or the power supply is not functioning properly.

The power supply at the MCU pins should be 3.3V, and the reference should be 3.0V. Then, on C210, when no cartridge is connected, the SENSEA should be around 1.5 - 2V, far beyond the threshold of full ADC 1023 digits after the amplification.

I don't know about other chips, but forget about fake PIC32 - there's no such thing for the moment. There are some fakes from the lower class PICs (PIC16/18), but no one reported about fake PIC32s, and I think noone can produce these at fair price.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5308
if it shows 511, then something is wrong with signal path or reference. In order for MCU to detect "sensor open/no instrument" condition, the ADC should go to it's maximum value of 1023. 511 on screen means that it does not go to 1023, but to a value less than this. This means that either the current sources, the amplifiers, the reference, or the power supply is not functioning properly.

The power supply at the MCU pins should be 3.3V, and the reference should be 3.0V. Then, on C210, when no cartridge is connected, the SENSEA should be around 1.5 - 2V, far beyond the threshold of full ADC 1023 digits after the amplification.
@sparkybg

Yes, i have ADC 1013... :( you have list of component what should replacement? what is most important to working?

And this is normal when i connect C245 i have full power bar? and No instrument

 

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #5309
Hi,

I also baught the presoldered set from Tindie, but I have a problem with calibration. When I connect a 0,1% 10 ohm resistor I get a value of 360-390, depending on the position of the trimmer. I measured the voltage over the resistor and the current according to this blog and my values match pretty precisely. This is btw. the same for channel B. By my knowlege I would need to change R57 and/or R59, is that right? And which resistance should I change them to? I hope someone could help me, as I am very exhausted by now getting this to work.

(Room temperature is about right)
(24VDC switching Power supply)

Thanks in advance
Jannik