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Topic: Really universal soldering controller (Read 1047168 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #915 –
[quote author="sparkybg"]

J7 is for DC power supply - it avoids one diode drop, J1 is for AC and is using all 4 rectifiers.[/quote]
Ah i see, it's possibile to use DC. I think i'm going with AC.

Anyway i'm reviewing my BOM now and I am going to use a 56V transil, so no worries for the MOSFETs :)

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #916 –
[quote author="valerionew"]I think i'm going with AC.[/quote]

Mains toroidal transformer is the best possible power source for this controller. For many reasons.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #917 –
[quote author="sparkybg"][quote author="valerionew"]

[quote author="valerionew"]
LM4120 instead of REF3030 (this is an hard match as before. the LM4120 is a STO23-5, the REF3030 a SOT23-3. the two extra pins can be left disconnected and the shared pins match. Nevertheless, the LM4120 has a maximum current of 5mA instead of 25mA and a dropout voltage of 100mV instead of 1mV. The precision is the same. Is it suitable?)
[/quote]

[quote author="sparkybg"]
There are two parts, connected to this reference voltage - the MCU's ADC reference, and the offset DAC. I don't know how much current they consume - you will have to find out yourself. 3.0V 0.1% is the most important rating but I am a bit skeptical about the proposed substitute.
[/quote][/quote][/quote]


I have tested (curiosity) and result is: 262.26 μA.

As a replacement for REF3030 (only in this case) you can take the following ICs:  MAX6010AEUR, MAX6063AEUR, ISL21010CFH330Z

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #918 –
Hi to everybody,
I'm almost done with soldering - still waiting one IC and the transformer and I'll be able to try it out for the first time :D
I have a few lame questions, if someone could explain - sorry for that but electronics is more of a hobby of mine and some things I can't do or understand by myself...
For now my questions are regarding the display board:
It seems like my display is 9v (it is this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-0- ... 0.0.dYYx9q  )
So, back in one of the pages I have read that I need to change R66 to 30k and R68 to 4.7k.
In the schematics R66 is 0.1% tolerance - Is it critical or can I solder a 1% resistor?
Other option was to leave R66 as is, and only change R68 to 4.3k, and voltage will be 8.95V. - How much will be the voltage if I place a 4.7k resistance instead?
I really do not want to make another order and pay for shipment again just for few resistors.

And another question - In the schematics, for C71 is given 10uF at 16V, but in the BOM it's 10uF at 25V. I have placed the 25V version but it would be nice to know were is the truth, since you have to order separate value and have to buy at least 10 of them.
And just for clarification if I'm right - we do NOT solder Q15, Q17, Q20 and D17 - correct?

Edit: I just remembered to ask if the station will go to sleep if I send the "sleep" signal to a metal soldering iron holder?
I understood that you have to send "sleep" to "GND" and since the iron itself is grounded, would that suffice or there is separate "GND". And if there are separate ground lines is it a problem if they connect together? - as would be when the iron is in the holder.

Thank you very much, SparkyBG for your time and great project!

Regards
I'm a newbie at electronics and for that always take my words with a grain of salt - it is very possible I'm wrong!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #919 –
0.1% is not critical. I've used this in order for BOM to be with fewer lines. 1% standard resistors are OK of the OLED board.

There is a equation in the datasheet of the chip how the resistors are calculated. There are many combinations both for 12V and 9V.

About C71 - when the OLED is 9V, 16V capacitor is OK, but when the OLED is 12V, 16V capacitor is a bit close to it's limit, and because it is a X5R/X7R ceramic capacitor, it's capacitance will fall when driven near the limit.

So, if it is in the same package, better order 25V - it will be OK both for front PCB and OLED PCB, no matter what voltage the OLED wants.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #920 –
Thank you for the fast reply!
Now I understood how it is calculated, so for my scenario if I change only R68 to 4.7k the voltage would be 8.3V - perfectly in specs of the display :D
I understood about the cap, also - thank you for the explanation! I already have a 25V one soldered so no need to change it :)

Greetings from Bourgas :D
I'm a newbie at electronics and for that always take my words with a grain of salt - it is very possible I'm wrong!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #921 –
Hello everyone,
I'm curious if anybody has some PCBs left, or even components. Let's be honest, it is really frustrating searching all the necessary components.
So, if somebody has something left. I can certainly set free this parts from slavery :)

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #922 –
Hello,
I finished my Unisolder today. I calibrated it, connected my ERSA RT80 to it. It shows up as ERSA RT80 but it constantly says "SENSOR OPEN". I checked wiring four times, and except that my soldering iron has a red instead a pink wire it is correctly wired. What am I doing wrong?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #923 –
1. Measure heater's resistance and tell me what it is, and the wires it is on.
2. Check continuity between front PCB SENSEA and SENSEB and your iron connector's SENSEA and SENSEB.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #924 –
Thank you for answering. I measured the following resistances:
Black-Red: infinity Ohms
Black-White: 2.3 Ohms
Red-White: infinity Ohms
So I guess that Black-White is the heater, isn't it?

Without Iron Plugged in and Soldering Station off: Resistance between SENSEA and SENSEB is 111 kOhms
Without Iron Plugged in and Soldering Station on: Resistance between SENSEA and SENSEB is 4.8k - 6.1k Ohms

With Iron plugged in and Soldering Station off: Resistance between SENSEA and SENSEB is 2.3 Ohms
With Iron plugged in and Soldering Station on: Resistance between SENSEA and SENSEB is 60-70 Ohms

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #925 –
Yes, black-white is heater, red is outer body. Your iron connections are OK.

1. Measure the continuity between SENSEA signal on the front PCB and SENSEA on the iron's connector without iron connected
2. Measure the continuity between SENSEB signal on the front PCB and SEBSEB on the iron's connector without iron connected
3. Measure the resistance between SENSEA and SENSEB on the front PCB with iron connected without powering up the controller.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #926 –
Hello all!

I am a new member here and just finished reading through all 62 pages of this thread!  Wow, thank you sparkybg for sharing this project...it sounds amazing and I would like to put one together.  However, I am a total newbie and it sounds a little challenging.  The soldering should be okay, it's sourcing the proper parts and programming the chip that will be hard for me. 

I'm curious to know what the general consensus is...should I make an attempt or no?  Are PCBs (or preferably completed boards) available in the US, or anyone willing to ship to the US?  Advise greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again!

Scot

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #927 –
[quote author="mesodumb"]Hello all.

Im looking to build this project asap. Tired of my sub-par stations that promise features and functionality that somehow disappear. Cant say how many tips ive burned due to failed sleep/shutdown timers. I considered the hakko 951, but it felt limited by comparrison to this project and im too frugal to buy the big boy units @500+++.

 I do have a business account with digikey and mouser,  so i can order as needed. However,  i prefer to buy overstock from someone within the community...plus, admittedly, sourcing parts from multiple vendors is a bit of a pain in the butt. 

If anyone has full kits (preferably un-assembled; its not as fun if you dont actually put it together) then i would like to buy.

Bare minimum, i need a board  or two and supply of the harder to aquire parts due to lower qty and/or usa based dist availability.  I looled at having a run of boards made via chinese manufacturer, but unless i wanted to buy 100 it did not seem worth it. Definitely dont need 100 plus boards. Side note... Amazing that their better pricing started with 15 units. However, difference in price between 15 and 100 was so marginal that it would be silly not to buy the biggest bang per buck.

Thats all my ranting for tonight. I look forward to the project and discussing it as i progress.[/quote]

It is a bit problematic to me to send items outside EU. You can order a PCBs from itead or seed (around 20USD fot 5 PCBs if I remember right).

[quote author="ScotY808"]Hello all!

I am a new member here and just finished reading through all 62 pages of this thread!  Wow, thank you sparkybg for sharing this project...it sounds amazing and I would like to put one together.  However, I am a total newbie and it sounds a little challenging.  The soldering should be okay, it's sourcing the proper parts and programming the chip that will be hard for me. 

I'm curious to know what the general consensus is...should I make an attempt or no?  Are PCBs (or preferably completed boards) available in the US, or anyone willing to ship to the US?  Advise greatly appreciated.

Thanks once again!

Scot[/quote]

If you can solder pars with 0.5mm pin spacing - go for it. You can cooperate with mesodump for parts ordering and PCBs.

I don't think you will have any problem ordering all the parts from US. They are all US made parts and nothing is too exotic I think.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #928 –
I still have couple of boards except for the sensor which I didn't order and I live in Canada.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #929 –
Thanks, Sparkybg...I think I will give it a shot!

Dumitruv,
If I can figure out how to PM you, I am interested in buying one off you. That would be great!