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Topic: Really universal soldering controller (Read 1047168 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #900 –
[quote author="sparkybg"]

I've just tried them - uploaded the bootloader to my controller with PICKit3, and the uploaded the firmware with PC software - everything works.[/quote]


I have also tested (recompiled hex) and everything works perfectly ;-)

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #901 –
[quote author="SZ64"]I have also tested (recompiled hex) and everything works perfectly ;-)[/quote]

Thank you.

Anyone else?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #902 –
I tried it too.I haven't seen a significant improvement in stability with Hakko T15, I haven't tried it with 906. I also have the same temperature offset so I'll have to alter C1 again. The bootloader works well though.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #903 –
Does anybody have a clue about the T245 connector's name? Can i buy it from TME?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #904 –
[quote author="valerionew"]Does anybody have a clue about the T245 connector's name? Can i buy it from TME?[/quote]
Iwanushka stated that receptacle is Hirose RPC1-12RB-6P(71)
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=63873&hilit=hirose#p63873
digikey suggests mating plug Hirose RPC1-12P-6S(71)

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #905 –
[quote author="DinikS"]
It started to flash firmware the screen on soldering station became dark and now it doesn't work even not defined by PC.
[/quote]
The same thing. Tried several times with no change. But then decided to flash (by PC software) firmware with integrated bootloader and it flashes just fine (two times).

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #906 –
Of course it will be this way!

"Standalone" HEX is meant to be used ONLY when flashed directly with PICKit3 ot ICD, or something similar.

When PC software and USB is used, you must upload the "with_bootloader" HEX. It is not with integrated bootloader, but meant to be flashed using the bootloader and PC software!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #907 –
Oh, I thought it has a bootloader in it and as bootloader is already flashed there is no point to reflash it.
Thanks, sparkybg, to clear this out for me!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #908 –
Hello all.

Im looking to build this project asap. Tired of my sub-par stations that promise features and functionality that somehow disappear. Cant say how many tips ive burned due to failed sleep/shutdown timers. I considered the hakko 951, but it felt limited by comparrison to this project and im too frugal to buy the big boy units @500+++.

 I do have a business account with digikey and mouser,  so i can order as needed. However,  i prefer to buy overstock from someone within the community...plus, admittedly, sourcing parts from multiple vendors is a bit of a pain in the butt. 

If anyone has full kits (preferably un-assembled; its not as fun if you dont actually put it together) then i would like to buy.

Bare minimum, i need a board  or two and supply of the harder to aquire parts due to lower qty and/or usa based dist availability.  I looled at having a run of boards made via chinese manufacturer, but unless i wanted to buy 100 it did not seem worth it. Definitely dont need 100 plus boards. Side note... Amazing that their better pricing started with 15 units. However, difference in price between 15 and 100 was so marginal that it would be silly not to buy the biggest bang per buck.

Thats all my ranting for tonight. I look forward to the project and discussing it as i progress.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #909 –
Hi everyone,

First of all, sorry if some details are missing: i wrote this message before, then i pressed "Submit" and i was taken to a login page. Once i logged, my message has disappeard. So i'm re-writing it and i might miss something.

I'm making my BOM with all the parts from TME, with all the links, the minimum quantities, the prices etc.
I really need to buy all or most components from there. I can share it, if someone needs it.

Therefore, i need to change some parts with others.

These are the parts that i want to use insted of the original BOM ones. Maybe sparkybg or someone who knows the design can tell if them would be adequate or not.

SB5100 instead of SR580 (has an higher maximum voltage)

BAT46W instead of BAT46WH (little bit lower forward current: 150mA instead of 250mA, little bit higher Vf)

SK310SMA instead of SS310A (practically the same part from a different manifacturer)

GF1M instead of 1N4007 (i can't find a smd version of the 1n4007. GF1M is also 1kV 1A)

BAV23A insted of MMBD1505A (this is an hard match. they are both in the same configuration, but: BAV23A has 250V instead of 200V reverse voltage and an higher current rate, this should not be a problem. The reverse current is 100nA @ 200V instead of 10nA @ 180V. The forward voltage is similar)

SK34SMA instead of SS34A (the SS34A is listed as Controlled Avalanche Power Diode, the SK as Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diode, but all the other parameters are very similar)

NZT605 instead of FZT605 (very similar charateristics. the NZT605 has a lower V(br)ceo: 110V instead of 140V. Seems compatible, from a different manifacturer)

SPD15P10PL instead of SUD50P10 (similar ratings, the SPD15P10PL is rated for an higher current)

PSMN025-100D instead of IPD053N08N3 (not quite sure of this match. The PSMN025-100D has 47A current instead of 90A)

Now we get to the hard part, the ICs matching.

LM4120 instead of REF3030 (this is an hard match as before. the LM4120 is a STO23-5, the REF3030 a SOT23-3. the two extra pins can be left disconnected and the shared pins match. Nevertheless, the LM4120 has a maximum current of 5mA instead of 25mA and a dropout voltage of 100mV instead of 1mV. The precision is the same. Is it suitable?)

LM4041AIM3-1.2 instead of LM4041CIM3-1.2 (the substitute one seems better performing in terms of precision, i dont really know which other parameters i need to compare)

I havent found any 1:1 substitute for the LM2675M-3.3. There is the LM2671-3.3 which has 500mA instead of 1A of current. is it suitable or i need the full amp?

I can't find the MCP4651-503E/ST and MCP4561T-503E/MS 50k digital potentiometers, but i've found the MCP4561T-103 and MCP4651T-103 10kohm counterparts. Are they ok?

I can't find the HOLDER connector. Maybe i can look for a different connector with the same pin pitch.

I still can't find the ADG734, the MCP6V28-E/SN, the shunt resistor, the buzzer and the oled display.
For the buzzer it seems hard to find 12mm diameter buzzers with a 6.5mm pin spacing. I can only find ones with 7.6mm spacing. Maybe i can just put a connector or solder two wires.

I also ecnountered some problems with the BOM:

A potentiometer is a THT part, but in the discussion i've found that it is an SMD part, 3364X. It really needs to be updated :D
In the BOM there are some 3V zener and some 3.0V ones. 3V±2% would do the job?

Sorry for the many questions but i really need to get my modifications reviewed by someone who knows the design and has more experience than me.
I hope i can give my contribution to the project soon :)


EDIT:
[quote author="mesodumb"]
 I do have a business account with digikey and mouser,  so i can order as needed. However,  i prefer to buy overstock from someone within the community...plus, admittedly, sourcing parts from multiple vendors is a bit of a pain in the butt. [/quote]

I'll have almost certanly some surplus passives. I'm planning to place the parts order within a month. If you are interested, let me know. Where are you based?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #910 –
[quote author="valerionew"]
SB5100 instead of SR580 (has an higher maximum voltage)
[/quote]
It is OK, however, higher voltage parts tend to have larger forward voltage and might warm up a bit more.

[quote author="valerionew"]
BAT46W instead of BAT46WH (little bit lower forward current: 150mA instead of 250mA, little bit higher Vf)
[/quote]
It is OK.
[quote author="valerionew"]
SK310SMA instead of SS310A (practically the same part from a different manifacturer)
[/quote]
It is OK.

[quote author="valerionew"]
GF1M instead of 1N4007 (i can't find a smd version of the 1n4007. GF1M is also 1kV 1A)
[/quote]
OK.
[quote author="valerionew"]
BAV23A insted of MMBD1505A (this is an hard match. they are both in the same configuration, but: BAV23A has 250V instead of 200V reverse voltage and an higher current rate, this should not be a problem. The reverse current is 100nA @ 200V instead of 10nA @ 180V. The forward voltage is similar)
[/quote]
Not OK. You need low reverse leakage diode there, and BAV23A is not specified. LL4148CA is tested OK, however, some manufacturers do sell a schottky instead for 4148, which is definitely NOT OK.

[quote author="valerionew"]
SK34SMA instead of SS34A (the SS34A is listed as Controlled Avalanche Power Diode, the SK as Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diode, but all the other parameters are very similar)
[/quote]
OK.

[quote author="valerionew"]
NZT605 instead of FZT605 (very similar charateristics. the NZT605 has a lower V(br)ceo: 110V instead of 140V. Seems compatible, from a different manifacturer)
[/quote]
Looks OK. Everything with more than 80V rating must be OK.

[quote author="valerionew"]
SPD15P10PL instead of SUD50P10 (similar ratings, the SPD15P10PL is rated for an higher current)
[/quote]
Definitely NOT OK! SPD15P10PL has 0.200ohm resistance and SUD50P10 has 0.043ohm - this is 5 times difference.

[quote author="valerionew"]
PSMN025-100D instead of IPD053N08N3 (not quite sure of this match. The PSMN025-100D has 47A current instead of 90A)
[/quote]
Same thing - you are trying to replace 0.005ohm part with 0.020 ohm part. It will not overheat, but on the lower MOSFETS the resistance is also important for another reasons. Don't compare amperavge rating but Rds-on, when substituting.

[quote author="valerionew"]
LM4120 instead of REF3030 (this is an hard match as before. the LM4120 is a STO23-5, the REF3030 a SOT23-3. the two extra pins can be left disconnected and the shared pins match. Nevertheless, the LM4120 has a maximum current of 5mA instead of 25mA and a dropout voltage of 100mV instead of 1mV. The precision is the same. Is it suitable?)
[/quote]
There are two parts, connected to this reference voltage - the MCU's ADC reference, and the offset DAC. I don't know how much current they consume - you will have to find out yourself. 3.0V 0.1% is the most important rating but I am a bit skeptical about the proposed substitute.

[quote author="valerionew"]
LM4041AIM3-1.2 instead of LM4041CIM3-1.2 (the substitute one seems better performing in terms of precision, i dont really know which other parameters i need to compare)
[/quote]
"A" part is OK. In fact, I am using A part on my controller.

[quote author="valerionew"]
I havent found any 1:1 substitute for the LM2675M-3.3. There is the LM2671-3.3 which has 500mA instead of 1A of current. is it suitable or i need the full amp?
[/quote]
I don't know if 500mA part is OK - you will have to find out yourself. You can substitute it with LM2675-ADJ and put a feedback resistors - there is a place for them on the PCB. When 3.3V part  is used, the top resistor is replaced with solder sumper.

[quote author="valerionew"]
I can't find the MCP4651-503E/ST and MCP4561T-503E/MS 50k digital potentiometers, but i've found the MCP4561T-103 and MCP4651T-103 10kohm counterparts. Are they ok?
[/quote]
10K parts are not OK. 100K (104) parts must be OK.

[quote author="valerionew"]
I can't find the HOLDER connector. Maybe i can look for a different connector with the same pin pitch.
[/quote]
It is a common RJ11 telephone cable connector, and I do have at least 2 alternatives in my drawer. There are MANY manufacturers making this part. Just look at their footprint drawing in the datasheet to find a compatible one.

[quote author="valerionew"]
I still can't find the ADG734
[/quote]
You will have to. It has no alternative. It is available in Farnell, Digikey and Mouser.

[quote author="valerionew"]
 the MCP6V28-E/SN
[/quote]
I think I wrote this many times already, but again - MCP6V01, MCP6V03, MCP6V06, MCP6V08, MCP6V26, MCP6V28 are all switable.
For the 2 opamp parts - MCP6V02, MCP6V07, MCP6V27 are compatible.
Again, these are available from Farnell, Mouser and Digikey.

[quote author="valerionew"]
, the shunt resistor
[/quote]
No alternative. It must be in the same package, so you will have to find 0.003 or 0.004ohm shunt in the same package. Of you look at the front PCB schematic, there is a table with differences when 0.003 and 0.004ohm parts are needed.
These are again available form Farnell and Mouser. I am not sure about Digikey.

[quote author="valerionew"]
 the buzzer
[/quote]
This is the simplest buzzer ever made. Tons of compatible parts exist.

[quote author="valerionew"]
 and the oled display.
[/quote]
You can buy it from eBay. You need SSD1306 128x64 OLED display. Look some posts back - there's even links to the ebay sales.
Be sure to adjust the OLED boost regulator's voltage divider - some displays are 9V, and some are 12V. They will not fail immediately, but I am not sure about long term reliability.

[quote author="valerionew"]
I also ecnountered some problems with the BOM:
A potentiometer is a THT part, but in the discussion i've found that it is an SMD part, 3364X. It really needs to be updated :D
[/quote]
It will be corrected...

[quote author="valerionew"]
In the BOM there are some 3V zener and some 3.0V ones. 3V±2% would do the job?
[/quote]
Ordinary 3V Zeners are OK.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #911 –
[quote author="sparkybg"]
Not OK. You need low reverse leakage diode there, and BAV23A is not specified. LL4148CA is tested OK, however, some manufacturers do sell a schottky instead for 4148, which is definitely NOT OK.
[/quote]
Ok, seems a difficult part. I'll source from somewhere else

[quote author="sparkybg"]
Definitely NOT OK! SPD15P10PL has 0.200ohm resistance and SUD50P10 has 0.043ohm - this is 5 times difference.
[/quote]
So i'll go for a AOD409 instead of SUD50P10 (less than 40mΩ Rdson, but only -60V. Shouldn't be a problem, right? On tme there are no better options)

[quote author="sparkybg"]
Same thing - you are trying to replace 0.005ohm part with 0.020 ohm part. It will not overheat, but on the lower MOSFETS the resistance is also important for another reasons. Don't compare amperavge rating but Rds-on, when substituting.
[/quote]
So there's the new part that I've chosen
IPD031N06L3 instead of IPD053N08N3 (0.31mohm rdson, also 60V maximum)

[quote author="sparkybg"]
There are two parts, connected to this reference voltage - the MCU's ADC reference, and the offset DAC. I don't know how much current they consume - you will have to find out yourself. 3.0V 0.1% is the most important rating but I am a bit skeptical about the proposed substitute.
[/quote]
I'm skeptical too, but it's worth a try...

[quote author="sparkybg"]
You can substitute it with LM2675-ADJ and put a feedback resistors - there is a place for them on the PCB.
[/quote]
Cool design feature! I'll try both!

[quote author="sparkybg"]
10K parts are not OK. 100K (104) parts must be OK.
[/quote]
To be sourced somewhere else! :) Maybe i can make a small order to another supplier

[quote author="sparkybg"]
It is a common RJ11 telephone cable connector
[/quote]
I was misled by a picture of the board i was looking to quicker identify the components, and by v in the bom. No problem, i'll get one of these

[quote author="sparkybg"]
You will have to. It has no alternative.
[/quote]
I'll put it in my tiny order from another supplier :D

[quote author="sparkybg"]
I think I wrote this many times already, but again - MCP6V01, MCP6V03, MCP6V06, MCP6V08, MCP6V26, MCP6V28 are all switable.
For the 2 opamp parts - MCP6V02, MCP6V07, MCP6V27 are compatible.
Again, these are available from Farnell, Mouser and Digikey.[/quote]
I'm sorry, i haven't looked deep enough in the thread. Also the 10k/50k/100k potentiometer thing was already mentioned. My bad...

[quote author="sparkybg"]
you will have to find 0.003 or 0.004ohm shunt in the same package
[/quote]
Tiny tiny order :P

[quote author="sparkybg"]
You can buy it from eBay. You need SSD1306 128x64 OLED display. Look some posts back - there's even links to the ebay sales.
Be sure to adjust the OLED boost regulator's voltage divider - some displays are 9V, and some are 12V. They will not fail immediately, but I am not sure about long term reliability.
[/quote]
Allright, i've found it on tme. Same interface and pinout, i assume that the ribbon would be also the same dimensions. REX012864DWPP3N0

[quote author="sparkybg"]
It will be corrected...
[/quote]
It was just a reminder, no offense :D


By the way, thank you so much for your reply!

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #912 –
60V parts may or may not work. It depends on your transformer's leakage inductance. 24*1.414*1.2 (transformer when idle)*265(max mains voltage)/230(nominal mains voltage) = 46 volts DC max. But when transformer leakage inductance is large enough, there can be peaks that exceed 60V (the TVS voltage). I had this experience with the transformer from the station I am using enclosure from - nasty chinese non-toroidal one, heating up pretty much even when idle. There were peaks that the TVS limited and no parts were damaged. That's why the TVS is there.

I've taken some precautions (3-rd capacitor on the back board, zero current switch-off of heater) in order to avoid peaks even on nasty transformer with big leakage inductance, but I am using 80-100V parts and I don't know if 60V will work reliably. But that's me - I have a nasty habit of being too conservative when making things.

So, make some measurements of the voltage after the diodes if you have an oscilloscope. There should not be any peaks close to 60V there. You can use 55V instead of 60V TVS, just to be sure your MOSFET-s are safe, despite the fact that they are also working as big zeners when their voltage rating is exceeded. However, I don't know if something else can be damaged and how the controller will perform if there are peaks.

The display looks OK. Bear in mind that white one has 20000 hours life and yellow one has 50000 hours. Also, the white one is 12V, and the yellow one is 9V. The yellow looks more fancy, IMHO. :)

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #913 –
[quote author="sparkybg"]60V parts may or may not work. It depends on your transformer's leakage inductance. 24*1.414*1.2 (transformer when idle)*265(max mains voltage)/230(nominal mains voltage) = 46 volts DC max. But when transformer leakage inductance is large enough, there can be peaks that exceed 60V (the TVS voltage). I had this experience with the transformer from the station I am using enclosure from - nasty chinese non-toroidal one, heating up pretty much even when idle. There were peaks that the TVS limited and no parts were damaged. That's why the TVS is there.

I've taken some precautions (3-rd capacitor on the back board, zero current switch-off of heater) in order to avoid peaks even on nasty transformer with big leakage inductance, but I am using 80-100V parts and I don't know if 60V will work reliably. But that's me - I have a nasty habit of being too conservative when making things.

So, make some measurements of the voltage after the diodes if you have an oscilloscope. There should not be any peaks close to 60V there. You can use 55V instead of 60V TVS, just to be sure your MOSFET-s are safe, despite the fact that they are also working as big zeners when their voltage rating is exceeded. However, I don't know if something else can be damaged and how the controller will perform if there are peaks.
[/quote]
I didn't expected that at all. Anyway i'm planning to use a decent toroidal transformer, also from tme here. By the way i have also some questions about the transformer connection. What's happening with J1 and J7? What's doing J7 there?

[quote author="sparkybg"]
The display looks OK. Bear in mind that white one has 20000 hours life and yellow one has 50000 hours. Also, the white one is 12V, and the yellow one is 9V. The yellow looks more fancy, IMHO. :)[/quote]
It also seems that no SSD1306 display at all is currently in stock... I'll wait..

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #914 –
[quote author="valerionew"]
I didn't expected that at all.
[/quote]
Me neither. That's one of the reasons the version of the controller moved from 5.0 to 5.2.

[quote author="valerionew"]
questions about the transformer connection. What's happening with J1 and J7? What's doing J7 there?
[/quote]
J7 is for DC power supply - it avoids one diode drop, J1 is for AC and is using all 4 rectifiers.

[quote author="sparkybg"]
The display looks OK. Bear in mind that white one has 20000 hours life and yellow one has 50000 hours. Also, the white one is 12V, and the yellow one is 9V. The yellow looks more fancy, IMHO. :)[/quote]

[quote author="valerionew"]
It also seems that no SSD1306 display at all is currently in stock... I'll wait..[/quote]

As I said, there are displays on eBay you can buy if you don't want to wait. Although these are with considerably shorter life than TME ones.