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Topic: Really universal soldering controller (Read 722792 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3000
Can you Please check if R43, 46, 47, 51 corresponds to their values?

R43, 46, 47, 51 precision resistance 0.1% 25ppm. Assembled the third controller nothing has changed.
I will look for another transformer 12V AC.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3001
Problem solved, poor quality transformers. Found a transformer from a charger, all three controllers work fine from 12V AC supply.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3002
hey guys,
im about to order the required parts to build my own Unisolder.
The github page from valerionew was already a great help but i am still confused about a few parts.
If you could take a quick look and tell me if the parts i chose will work would be highly appreciated

First the inductors:
L1: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_YJYCOIN-YPRH1207-331M_C504038.html
L2: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_TDK-SLF7045T-331MR25-PF_C136202.html
L3: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_SXN-Shun-Xiang-Nuo-Elec-SMNR4020-10UH_C135263.html

Im not sure what Switches (S1,S2,S3) and Buzzer (SPK1) to use. Is there an exact footprint? Do I even need the Buzzer?

The Github page says, that i dont need the Mosfets Q14, Q15, Q16, Q18, Q19, Q21, Q22 (IRLML6401) and Q17, Q20 (IRLML2502) and U9 (ULN2003L) if i use the OLED, is that correct?
Do i have to get any other parts that are not on the original BOM?

Its hard to find the OLED. I searched a bit and found this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Weis-Blau-Gelb-Blau-0-96-I2C-IIC-SPI-Serial-128X64-OLED-LCD-LED-Anzeige/322724384771?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4b23df5003:g:vsMAAOSwTqdZreyg&enc=AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk5v8gVt3hEWLVg%2F253w6XCZHZZG
The discriptions says the following:
"This OLED Part No. is UG-2864HSWEG01, not UG-2864AMBAG01"
So in theory I should be able to desolder the Display and use it right?

There is a fuseholder in the BOM, but no Fuse. What fuse is required?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3003
Hi guys,
I would like to build the UniSolder just for the JBC nano C105 and C115 cartridges.
Can someone please tell me what their resistance is?
Apparently it would be best to use a 9V toroidal transformer, but I want to be sure with this.
What is your experience with power limitation in software when using 12V sec windings (13V+ no load voltage)?

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3004
First the inductors:
L1: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_YJYCOIN-YPRH1207-331M_C504038.html
L2: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_TDK-SLF7045T-331MR25-PF_C136202.html
L3: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_SXN-Shun-Xiang-Nuo-Elec-SMNR4020-10UH_C135263.html
L1 is ok, if you use 1A version of U1
L2 is also ok, you do not have such load
About L3 - not, you need: 2.2uH Shld 20% 2.9A 70 mOhms
Im not sure what Switches (S1,S2,S3) and Buzzer (SPK1) to use. Is there an exact footprint? Do I even need the Buzzer?
Any 6x6mm tactile sw with desired length, it is good to have a buzzer.
The Github page says, that i dont need the Mosfets Q14, Q15, Q16, Q18, Q19, Q21, Q22 (IRLML6401) and Q17, Q20 (IRLML2502) and U9 (ULN2003L) if i use the OLED, is that correct?
Do i have to get any other parts that are not on the original BOM?
If it is written that, you do not need them.  nobody is complained yet.
 You will need extra parts - case,  power supply, connectors for the handle and power cord, handle stand and may be some extra, I cannot remember right now
hard to find the OLED. I searched a bit and found this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Weis-Blau-Gelb-Blau-0-96-I2C-IIC-SPI-Serial-128X64-OLED-LCD-LED-Anzeige/322724384771?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4b23df5003:g:vsMAAOSwTqdZreyg&enc=AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk5v8gVt3hEWLVg%2F253w6XCZHZZG
The discriptions says the following:
"This OLED Part No. is UG-2864HSWEG01, not UG-2864AMBAG01"
So in theory I should be able to desolder the Display and use it right?

There is a fuseholder in the BOM, but no Fuse. What fuse is required?
I think that display should be ok, but is very small, you can search here and you will find many others, but it is good to start with that.
About a fuse it is T5A 5x20mm, use schematics


Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3006
Fast blow fuse 1808 125V 5A + fuse holder  link
I would choose Time delay one, Unisolder is software limited to 5A, but always there are  hardware based deviation and from there it is better to have some margin

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3007
Hi, for some days I was experienced with low power of the cartridge, I was surprised, when I saw the tip. That is 3 years old, used not every day, only some hours  per a day. From the day 1 I am using touch sensing - mean low temperature in the stand. Have someone got the same or may be defective cartridge.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3008
Thank you very much @minkok  and @vulkan35
That has already been a major help.

You will need extra parts - case,  power supply, connectors for the handle and power cord, handle stand and may be some extra, I cannot remember right now.

I have already bought a 24V 150VAC toroidal transformer wich was recommended in the Wiki.
I have a 3D printer at hand, so a case is not really a concern for me.

The Wiki recommends a few Connectors.
Im just a bit confused about J5 and J6.
J5 seems to be for some kind of sleep mode when i put my Iron in the Holder?
From the Schematics it looks like J6 is the Senseinput from the Iron itself? I cant find the recommended Parts on Mouser. But if I understand it correct, there should not be any current requirement, so a basic Dupont Connector on the pcb should be enough?

And then J2 and J6 go the the Iron itself? Wich in the Case of the JBC T245 should be this connector:  https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/RPC1-12RB-6P71?qs=3aug5cyrIbe2GgBBTK%2FJGw%3D%3D

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3009
L1 is ok, if you use 1A version of U1
L2 is also ok, you do not have such load
About L3 - not, you need: 2.2uH Shld 20% 2.9A 70 mOhms

Hi, why L3 is 2.2uH ? Schematic and BOM says 10uH.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3010
Hi, why L3 is 2.2uH ? Schematic and BOM says 10uH.
Good question. I think I found the part that is specified in the BOM:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Coilcraft/LPS4018-103MRB?qs=QQJxVsr8EGYtnXPp5liaRw%3D%3D

This is the part I think @minkok  is refering to:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Coilcraft/LPS4018-222MRB?qs=MW2gS7wPCVxljhu%2FbSOMRA%3D%3D

DC resistance and max current are vastly different apart from the uH value.

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3011
Hi, why L3 is 2.2uH ? Schematic and BOM says 10uH.
Ooops, Sorry, I looked at the Sparkybg BOM , obsolate LED display parts was included not changed. Now from the schematics it is 10uH for OLED. Sorry again for the mistake
L3: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_SXN-Shun-Xiang-Nuo-Elec-SMNR4020-10UH_C135263.html  - is ok also, but preferable shielded

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3012
The Wiki recommends a few Connectors.
Im just a bit confused about J5 and J6.
J5 seems to be for some kind of sleep mode when i put my Iron in the Holder?
From the Schematics it looks like J6 is the Senseinput from the Iron itself? I cant find the recommended Parts on Mouser. But if I understand it correct, there should not be any current requirement, so a basic Dupont Connector on the pcb should be enough?

And then J2 and J6 go the the Iron itself? Wich in the Case of the JBC T245 should be this connector:  https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/RPC1-12RB-6P71?qs=3aug5cyrIbe2GgBBTK%2FJGw%3D%3D
You should choose the right connectors for you. If you are going to use just one series of JBC, let say 245 - use original connector and connect sensing resistors and ins inside the case, but what about if you want to use multiple hand pieces, in that case use sparkybg design from first page 8 pin aviation connector. Recently here was mentioned about using transformer for 24V with middle point 12V for powering 40w tools and switching by relay - make the right choice from now for what tools you are going to use it.
About J5 & J6 look first at https://5n44p.github.io/unisolder-chips/ which can help you for mounting also. ( sorry link is not valid ), I will attach it for you ( it is made from other guy )

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3013
here it is

Re: Really universal soldering controller

Reply #3014
Ooops, Sorry, I looked at the Sparkybg BOM , obsolate LED display parts was included not changed. Now from the schematics it is 10uH for OLED. Sorry again for the mistake
L3: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_SXN-Shun-Xiang-Nuo-Elec-SMNR4020-10UH_C135263.html  - is ok also, but preferable shielded
No problem. I already ordered from LCSC, so i will just get the following Inductor from mouser:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Coilcraft/LPS4018-103MRB?qs=QQJxVsr8EGYtnXPp5liaRw%3D%3D
This one should work?

You should choose the right connectors for you. If you are going to use just one series of JBC, let say 245 - use original connector and connect sensing resistors and ins inside the case, but what about if you want to use multiple hand pieces, in that case use sparkybg design from first page 8 pin aviation connector. Recently here was mentioned about using transformer for 24V with middle point 12V for powering 40w tools and switching by relay - make the right choice from now for what tools you are going to use it.
About J5 & J6 look first at https://5n44p.github.io/unisolder-chips/ which can help you for mounting also. ( sorry link is not valid ), I will attach it for you ( it is made from other guy )


For now I only plan on using the T245, but later i might also use the T210. Maybe maybe the JBC Tweezer in the future.
So I guess its easier to just get another connector and do it right from the beginning.
T245 and T210 seem not to be pin compatible.

Spary refers to "EARTH" in his connections in the first post here. Just to be clear is this mains earth?