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Topic: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs (Read 66096 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: question?

Reply #60
[quote author="mghicho"]can i read a byte from this LCD ??
i want to set pixels individually so i think  i have to read a byte of data and change that pixel and write it again.[/quote]

There's no read capability at all on these LCDs - you'll have to keep a local copy of the display, and just push the updated area over to the LCD. Such things are generally called 'dirty regions' in graphics library land, so googling for that may help give you ideas.

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #61
I'm not sure, but I think there's a good chance that Googling "Dirty Regions" might well bring up a lot of 'other' unexpected material, not related in any way to LCD's - lol        ;)

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #62
it is not real, i think its fake. you need to chack some ware.....

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #63
[quote author="Sleepwalker3"]I'm not sure, but I think there's a good chance that Googling "Dirty Regions" might well bring up a lot of 'other' unexpected material, not related in any way to LCD's - lol        ;)[/quote]

Oops... Here's a link to make up for it - and it seems dirty rectangles is an easier and safer search :-)

http://c2.com/cgi/wiki?DirtyRectangles

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #64
Hi,  I made up a quick break-out for these LCDs and had some made up at Seeed.

The foot-print is modelled on the Sparkfun Nokia 5110 break-out. This does means it has one unused pin as the 5110 uses 8bit SPI with a D/C pin whereas this one uses 9bit and no discrete D/C pin. The advantage for me is that it is a drop-in for my project.
The layout was done in Eagle, it's available for download on my github. I also have 4 spare (without LCD) if any one wants one for the cost of postage.
http://https://github.com/Catmacey/Nokia1202LCD-breakout

(UPDATE)
I added some better images and also the layout and schematic

The boards from Seeed.

A built up board.

The PCB top layer, there's nothing much on the bottom layer.

The schematic.  I included the option to use the backlight LED in three ways. 
  • Populate R1 with something sensible (1k?) and connect directly to GND or a GPIO for the simplest solution.
  • Populate R1 with zero ohms (or a solder bridge) and connect to a constant current driver. I using it this way with a MAX6957.
  • Leave R1 un-populated and populate R2,R3 and Q1 for a simple transistor driven version.  Not sure it's that useful but saw that others had done similar and there was space to include it.

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #65
Nicely done!  Yes I think the multiple methods for the LED is a good idea, some things it's good to be able to turn on/off the led, vary the brightness, flash it (to alert something), etc. Suggestion though, not sure, but I think the BC847 (100mA) might be too light-on to supply some of the LCD's, though not sure about the Nokia ones.  I would suggest something like a BCX19 (500mA).
Nice board, you should put it up on one of the sale sites for this sort of thing.

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #66
2n7002, up to 500mA, costs next to nothing and would obsolete R3.

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #67
@Sleepwalker3
Thanks. I might do a revision based on feedback from you guys and if there is interest, order a larger batch from Seeed with a corresponding batch of LCDs. Then try my luck on Tindie.
Not sure that the current handling capability of the transistor is really all that important. The backlight pretty bright even at very low currents. In my project I have the BL running from a MAX6957 that's set up to provide a max. constant current of 16mA per port and If found running it at 1/4 of that - so 4mA - seems more than bright enough for indoor use.

@matseng
That's a good idea thanks. Didn't think of that. One less component to populate.
The whole "use a transistor" thing was a bit of an afterthought really...

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #68
Welcome Catmacey.

The breakout - and project - look good ( I especially like your use of the display!).

I'll happily take two of the breakouts if you're still offering them (as long as Paypal is OK).  Not sure where you are - I'm located in Pennsylvania, USA.  Feel free to PM me to work out the details.

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #69
Thanks for the welcome Bearmos.
I've been lurking for a while but not gotten round to posting before now.
RE: postage. I've sent you a PM.

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #70
Nice board! How are you mounting the tab to the board - overlapping solder holding it on, or do you have the LCDs with tiny vias in the pads (mine don't)?

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #71
The one I've got has a peel off cover for a self-adhesive pad that covers most of the back - just stick it on :)

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #72
[quote author="Sleepwalker3"]The one I've got has a peel off cover for a self-adhesive pad that covers most of the back - just stick it on :)[/quote]
I meant the connector end of the flexi cable. Previously this was discussed and it was thought that solder-side-to-board would be the most successful - this is the other way up, so I'm intrigued

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #73
Mine have little vias in the flex. It was really easy to solder. First I dolloped a nice blob of flux over the whole area then tinned each pad to get some "free" solder on the pads

Then I placed the LCD on the board aligned with the pads and put two drops of super glue to hold it in place. 

To make my life easier I snipped off about 1mm from the end of the flex, this exposed a little more of the PCB pads for me to heat with the iron. A revision of the board will have longer pads to facilitate hand soldering.

Once the glue was dry I dolloped a bit more flux and just dabbed the iron on the end of each PCB pad whilst aplying a little bit of presure to the flex with a toothpick. The solder just wicks up under the pad. Easy, took two minutes.

Here's a better photo.  Sorry I don't have a high rez version here at work...

Re: Cheap Nokia 1202 B/W LCDs

Reply #74
[quote author="Catmacey"]Mine have little vias in the flex. It was really easy to solder. First I dolloped a nice blob of flux over the whole area then tinned each pad to get some "free" solder on the pads

Then I placed the LCD on the board aligned with the pads and put two drops of super glue to hold it in place. 

To make my life easier I snipped off about 1mm from the end of the flex, this exposed a little more of the PCB pads for me to heat with the iron. A revision of the board will have longer pads to facilitate hand soldering.

Once the glue was dry I dolloped a bit more flux and just dabbed the iron on the end of each PCB pad whilst aplying a little bit of presure to the flex with a toothpick. The solder just wicks up under the pad. Easy, took two minutes.

Here's a better photo.  Sorry I don't have a high rez version here at work...
[/quote]

Looks good, and explains it nicely - thanks.