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Topic: PicKit 3 in Eagle format (Read 29384 times) previous topic - next topic

PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #15
Have just done another test, it seems to be working now. I succesfully programmed a 18F2550 with mplabx b7 x64 on a mac 10.6.8 using the diy pickit2.
The only difference from the last time, is that yesterday I installed pk2cmd. But I'm not sure if it's related.
Also tryed with mplabx in x84 using -d32 on the command line, with no luck.
Finally, this is great news!

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #16
Quote
What's the need of single sided? Seeed charges are same for 2 layer boards, and 2layers boards are easy to route while designing.

@arupbsk, It don't need to be single-sided. I was only trying to do it single-sided because I etch my own boards using the press-n-peel-laser-printer-iron method and I can only do single-sided boards with jumper-wires. That was before I discovered Seeed. Now I prefer double-sided.

A couple more things:

The memory chips are SOIC 150mil not 208mil.
The USB connector needs to be mirrored or better yet, changed to a surface-mount type to avoid confusion.

Thanks in advance to all who help!!!

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #17
btw, I do pnp boards double sided. Trick I use is to put 2 holes on the pcb layout that I drill on the fr4 put small pieces of wire trough them and then use them to level the both sides of the pnp foild. Then I tape the foil and push it trough laminator ... works like a charm. Of course holes are not metalized so for vias you need to put piece of wire and solder on both sides and trough hole components you have to solder on both sides but that's not a big deal when you acquire some experience :)

New schematic and board files for PicKit 3.

Reply #18
UPDATE: New schematic and board files for PicKit 3.

It is now nearly identical to the original. FET's have been changed back to the original Fairchild dual FET. The USB connector has also been changed to a mini-B type SMT.

Thanks again to all who help!!!

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #19
somewhat off topic, but..... is there a way to get the pickit2 to support the 16f150x parts?  i bought some recently because they were cheap and I thought the programmable logic would be fun to play with.  i didn't realize at the time that they they weren't supported by the pickit2.  So a this point even if I can't get the PL to work, I would like to be able to program them.

Is there a way to add them to the pickit2 device list ourselves?

Update #2

Reply #20
That is one reason for wanting to build a Pickit 3. I too am interested in the same series. That and the fact that my DIY Pickit 2 crapped out on me.

UPDATE: I changed the ceramic capacitors to 0603 size and the P-FET is now IRLM6402 as in the original.

Does anybody know the current requirements for the inductor and the zeners? Or the voltage requirements for the tantalum caps? It would be nice to shrink those down some. They are HUGE!!!

Re: Update #2

Reply #21
[quote author="Computerman"]Or the voltage requirements for the tantalum caps?[/quote]

all lines except Vpp/MCLR are operating at max 5V so 10V voltage req should be used. Vpp/MCLR line is going all the way up to 14V so a 32V is what I'd go with.

Update #3

Reply #22
Thanks, but...

Quote
Vpp/MCLR line is going all the way up to 14V so a 32V is what I'd go with.

Why a 32V if it only goes up to 14V? Would a 20V not suffice? Or even a 16V?

UPDATE:

All tantalum caps except C23 have been changed to size 0805.

I also found a better replacement for Q4 in SOT-23, and changed D1 back to the original in SOT-23.

All parts are now original or equivalent except Q3. I think I already have the best replacement.

I believe the crystal could be replaced with a smaller one.

Re: Update #3

Reply #23
[quote author="Computerman"]Thanks, but...

Quote
Vpp/MCLR line is going all the way up to 14V so a 32V is what I'd go with.

Why a 32V if it only goes up to 14V? Would a 20V not suffice? Or even a 16V?
[/quote]

There is a rule I follow that for any "hobby" project I use cap's rated minimum 2 times the voltage they will operate on. One of the main reasons is that even "respectable" suppliers like farnell and mouser often have crappy parts so it happened not once that 16V capacitor blow up working on 14V.

When you do "commercial" work there's a whole procedure how you get  your parts, test them etc ... for hobby - the 2x rule works for me

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #24
[quote author="dolabra"]somewhat off topic, but..... is there a way to get the pickit2 to support the 16f150x parts?  i bought some recently because they were cheap and I thought the programmable logic would be fun to play with.  i didn't realize at the time that they they weren't supported by the pickit2.  So a this point even if I can't get the PL to work, I would like to be able to program them.

Is there a way to add them to the pickit2 device list ourselves?[/quote]

I've not tried those particular devices, but I have had luck with others. I used this tool http://sites.google.com/site/pk2devicefileeditor/ to edit the device file to add the new entries. You will need to check the datasheet for your device, and probably the family reference document, to add it. So long the PICkit2 already uses the same programming algorithm it should work. I found it easier to find a very similar device and duplicate it, the modify the required parameters, rather than adding a complete new entry.

Let us know how you go.

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #25
thanks,  that's just what I was looking for.  Maybe I'll get to it this weekend (famous last words... 6 months from now I'll be posting results :) )

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #26
Of course if you just wanted the PICKIT 3 for the latest PICs other than the 16F1xxx parts it would only need to provide 3.3V to the target and much of the circuit could be left off. In fact you could build one with a modified BPv4 board.


Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #28
Nice, this is great idea, someone tried to build the pickit3 clone?

Re: PicKit 3 in Eagle format

Reply #29
you can get pk3 pic clone fairly cheap. There's one made by surestudio (I heard ppl had problems with it) and there's one made by olimex (superb quality from what I hear). There's a full schematic in the manual so you can make one yourself... (not sure you will be able to get parts as cheap as to purchase already made clone)