It's been forever since i've played with my IRToy and i've forgotten everything i've learned about it. I have updated the firmware using update-USBIRToy.v22.bat and can communicate with WinLIRC to send a code from a library they provided. However what i'm trying to do is send a hex code. All the WinLIRC codes i found seemed to be raw codes. From my remote control vendor, the hex code list is below. How do i send these hex codes with the USB IR Toy? What program/procedure would i use? Sorry for the dumb question, i've searched the forum and couldn't find the information.
30 : KEY_0 31 : KEY_1 32 : KEY_2 33 : KEY_3 34 : KEY_4 35 : KEY_5 36 : KEY_6 37 : KEY_7 38 : KEY_8 39 : KEY_9 0C : DELETE (CLEAR) 0D : ENTER AF : VOL_UP AE : VOL_DOWN 9E : CHANNEL_UP 9D : CHANNEL_DOWN 99 : GUIDE AD : MUTE 9C : LAST (RECENT) 1B : EXIT (EXIT_TO_TV) 5D : KEY_A (WIN95_APP) 88 : KEY_B (APP2) 89 : KEY_C(APP3) 2F : INFO 25 : LEFT 26 : UP 27 : RIGHT 28 : DOWN 2B : OK B1 : BACK 8A : GO_INTERACTIVE (APP4) 12 : MENU E4 : VIDEO_ON_DEMAND 9A : RECORDED_TV A8 : REPLAY B0 : SKIP A9 : STOP 13 : PAUSE FA : PLAY E1 : RECORD 95 : REWIND 94 : FAST_FORWARD 00 : NONE E9 : POWER (POWER_TOGGLE) 8C : KEY_RED (RED) 8D : KEY_GREEN (GREEN) 8E : KEY_YELLOW (YELLOW) 8F : KEY_BLUE (BLUE) E6 : OPTIONS E3 : TELETEXT B3 : PLAY_PAUSE E7 : FAVORITES EA : DUAL (ALTAUDIO) EB : SEARCH EC : HELP (APP5) ED : EXCLUSIVE (APP6)
I'm probably just not looking in the right place, but what logic level does the OLS operate at? I have a saleae logic16 that operates at 1.8v-3.6v logic high OR 3.6v-5.0v logic high (selectable through software). I was just wondering what the logic threshold was for the OLS. I have one but i've always just fed it 5v signals so i have no clue what the cutoff is for low on it.
I am in need of a new soldering station at work. I have a Hakko 936 at home and love it, so i assume that the Hakko 888 would be sufficient (and relatively cheap). However, I am contemplating purchasing a combo station that also has hot air (i don't think i can clear getting a dedicated unit of each, since i only asked for a soldering iron, but i think i could swing a combo unit). I know the tools section of this site lists the Aoyue 968, and it seems to have good reviews, but i've also seen an 878AD (not sure the brand http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station ... 404&sr=1-2) and an 898D+ (also not sure the brand http://www.amazon.com/New-Rework-Solder ... 718&sr=1-1) reviewed on some site (but i can't find the review now). MickM in another post said he purchased a Blackjack 5000 (discontinued), but they now have the replacement model 5050 http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/10359.
I've never had experience with any of these, so suggestions would be helpful. Also, the money must be spent within the next week or so, so i've got limited time to check out options beyond asking for assistance and basic google searching. So if anyone has any other suggestions <$150-$175 USD i'm up for it (maybe able to push to $200, but that'd be the max... not sure if i can go that high though).
Side question, most seem to be hakko clones or compatible. Would you suggest starting out by buying the real hakko tips and/or heating elements, or just use the tips/elements that are shipped with them and replace with hakko when that time comes?
I need a good (fairly reliable/accurate) LCR meter that won't break the bank. Primarily i need it for inductance, as i have a decent capacitance meter. Anyone have suggestions? I was looking at the Peak Atlas LCR40, and it seems to have decent reviews, but it's primarily avalible just on ebay, so i'm unsure about long-term (actually even short-term) support with it.
I'm primarily wanting it to tune manually wound coils. Hope you guys may be able to give suggestions.
I got a free credit card reader from Square (https://squareup.com/). I have no intention of using it with my iphone, i got it to play around with for prototyping... As you can see from the picture on their site, it has a four conductor headphone jack connector. I am trying to deduce how to find out the pinout (without breaking the case open). Would it be possible with a scope or logic analyzer to deduce what the pinout should be by swiping a card through it?
Just looking for non-intrusive suggestions (if any exist).
Ok... so i'm ignorant of CPLD devices.... However I want to learn (or at least attempt). What's the difference between the XC2C64A and XC9572XL. I was going to purchase both from Seeed, but the XC2C64A CoolRunner-II CPLD development board is out of stock. Is there enough differences as a learning board to justify getting both, or is the CoolRunner board better (thus why it's sold out and the other has 14 left)? It appears from my ignorance on the subject that the CoolRunner has less Macrocells (not sure what that is), and from what i can tell from the description they run on (or support) different voltage levels?
I know they say easy to program with BusPirate, but would it be suggested to get the BusBlaster to use rather than the BP?
Just looking for some advice from others that know more.
Edit: Ahh.. .just found on the product page the comparison chart:
It says the coolrunner is suggested, but as a learning platform would either be just as good as the other? 5 volt tolerant may be useful for interface to arduino? (not sure how useful that would be)? Also it shows that its faster.
I have heard the term bitbang several times but never fully understood what it is... what i gather is that it's a software implementation of a protocol rather than having a hardware implementation. Is this correct? So you could have a hardware device bitbang a uart connection to another device, or an SPI connection, or I2C connection, etc etc?
i'm wanting to test digital read speed of arduino in two scenarios... 1. using the built-in like x=digitalRead(pin) 2. using direct port manipulation like x=PORTC0
I can obviously test output very easily.. have it output on a pin, then put a scope on it and measure the cycle period.
I'm working on an automatic channel checking project... it scans through the channels on a set top box and monitors for audio and/or video (dependant on the parameters specified per tv channel). The work in progress is at http://www.controllerprojects.com/?p=21
What i don't know, because i have virtually no experience with, is what i need to do in order to decrease external noise from interfering with the design. Right now it's just breadboarded (which i know is bad in regards to signal ingress) and it's picking up some external influences such as the 60hz from nearby power sources. I know placing it in a metal enclosure and i assume grounding to chassis should decrease that ambient noise, but i don't know what else i can do to improve it in regards to the way i design the PCB. Any suggestions would be helpful. Also note, it is the first PCB i will have ever designed.
So i'm just about to the point of pulling my hair out... I have the USB IR Toy V1a, and i hook it up to my computer. I point the driver install file to the firmware v11 driver directory and it installs as com2. I updated to that version of firmware. I can't get it to do anything with BP_LogicAnalyzer.exe and winLIRC IRGraph shows tons of ir being received, as does the "I" LED flash repeatedly (when i'm not using a remote control). I built the through hole version and it seems to work fine (for my limited knowledge of the logicanalyzer software). The irgraph with LIRC shows what i would expect to see and i don't see a constant stream of IR coming in, just when i use the remote. Any clue what may be going on?
I have the through hole version of the IRToy, and was wondering if it's possible to program it via the Bus Pirate. I've never really dealt with programming a PIC before, and not sure how to proceed. I tried looking through the forum, but maybe i'm just looking in the wrong places. From what i understand the BP's PIC Programming Adapter is just for if you need a higher voltage supply, or is that required for programming all PICs?
I'm going to investigate to see what the issue is, but wondering if any of you have ran into similar issues. I got a new laptop, and as soon as i connect the BP, it kills my bluetooth (internal DW375 bluetooth module on a Dell Latitude E6510). I disconnect the BP and bluetooth is still dead. I have to reboot, and it works fine until i plug the BP in again. I know the BP is good because i have used it on my old laptop several times.
If i find something, i'll post the solution in case anyone else can be helped by it.
I'm trying to figure out how to do something, and thought you guys may be able to lend some suggestions. I'm trying to make a device that can be connected to the video out of a cable box and scroll through the channels, and have a video input where it could analyze the video to determine if the video is chaning. It doesn't need to be high resolution, just determine if the video changes more than X% threshold over Y amount of time. I found an arduino shileld that may work, but the parts are a little higher than i thought (i think because of the sampling rate that they support). The schematic for that shield is at http://homepage.mac.com/dave_chatting/a ... ircuit.png
Does anyone have knowledge of NTSC video that can tell me if that's the best way to go, or could suggest a better/easier/cheaper way to do it? It's essentially a "channel checker" box that verifies that all channels are good, and when it determines there is a bad channel, it does some sort of digital action. It is fine if it has to set on the channel for 5, 10, even 30 or 60 seconds to get enough samples to determine if the video is chaning (which i am assuming means that the channel is good) or not.
Ok, i'll admit i tried to look through the documentation and forums, but what info i found was a bit over my head. This is my first venture into SPI (or much bus work at all). I'm trying to determine whether my project between an arduino and a 74HC595 is not working because of the arduino or because of the 74HC595. I have followed their examples and using their schematic and code (tried a few examples and double checked my work) but nothing seems to work. I'm trying to send data to the 74HC595 to tell it to turn on whichever output pins between 0 and 7 to light LEDs. This is just to play around with to understand the chip. The examples i'm using are using software serial and have arduino connections for 5VDC, GND, Clock, Serial out, and Latch which connect to the 74HC595 pins Vcc, GND, SH_CP, DS, and ST_CP respectivley. I assume i connect BP GND to GND and BP MISO to Serial out/DS, but i'm not sure whether i connect clock to clock/SH_CP, or leave it disconnected. The connections drawing at http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/SPI indicate that it is for BP Clock OUT, so that's why i'm confused if i need it since the arduino is providing clock.
Would it be easier to connect inline to sniff this scenario and determine what bits are being passed, or easier to be a slave to the arduino and see what is being sent, then be a master to the 74HC595 and try and pass it bits?
I hope i have explained this well. Let me know if i'm just missing some basic concepts, or how you would suggest i proceed.
I currently have a BP and OLS, but was wondering if anyone out there can make a suggestion. Do you think it would be worthwhile to purchase a DSO Nano or DSO Quad? Or are there any other small (i.e. cheap) scopes out there worth having? Or would you think there's enough advantage over the OLS to even consider one of these?
