It's been forever since i've played with my IRToy and i've forgotten everything i've learned about it. I have updated the firmware using update-USBIRToy.v22.bat and can communicate with WinLIRC to send a code from a library they provided. However what i'm trying to do is send a hex code. All the WinLIRC codes i found seemed to be raw codes. From my remote control vendor, the hex code list is below. How do i send these hex codes with the USB IR Toy? What program/procedure would i use? Sorry for the dumb question, i've searched the forum and couldn't find the information.
30 : KEY_0 31 : KEY_1 32 : KEY_2 33 : KEY_3 34 : KEY_4 35 : KEY_5 36 : KEY_6 37 : KEY_7 38 : KEY_8 39 : KEY_9 0C : DELETE (CLEAR) 0D : ENTER AF : VOL_UP AE : VOL_DOWN 9E : CHANNEL_UP 9D : CHANNEL_DOWN 99 : GUIDE AD : MUTE 9C : LAST (RECENT) 1B : EXIT (EXIT_TO_TV) 5D : KEY_A (WIN95_APP) 88 : KEY_B (APP2) 89 : KEY_C(APP3) 2F : INFO 25 : LEFT 26 : UP 27 : RIGHT 28 : DOWN 2B : OK B1 : BACK 8A : GO_INTERACTIVE (APP4) 12 : MENU E4 : VIDEO_ON_DEMAND 9A : RECORDED_TV A8 : REPLAY B0 : SKIP A9 : STOP 13 : PAUSE FA : PLAY E1 : RECORD 95 : REWIND 94 : FAST_FORWARD 00 : NONE E9 : POWER (POWER_TOGGLE) 8C : KEY_RED (RED) 8D : KEY_GREEN (GREEN) 8E : KEY_YELLOW (YELLOW) 8F : KEY_BLUE (BLUE) E6 : OPTIONS E3 : TELETEXT B3 : PLAY_PAUSE E7 : FAVORITES EA : DUAL (ALTAUDIO) EB : SEARCH EC : HELP (APP5) ED : EXCLUSIVE (APP6)
[quote author="arhi"]upgrades for next version of pcb:
240 gain requires 24K resistors there, not really available easy (I checked mu drawers, contacted my supplier and seems that 24k I need to order & wait 2 weeks to get it - same price as all the other but for some reason they don't have it around) so adding 3 footprints instead of just one would be great (attm I soldered 22k + 1k + 1k (look at picture attached, it is 2x1206+0804 on top :D it works but .. )
Only bad thing is you need two ethernet ports for sniffing.[/quote]
Appears to be very similar in concept to my passive ethernet tap i made years ago.
I basically took 4 Panduit brand modular ethernet jacks and wired between two of them normally, other than the fact that the TX pairs from "Side A" looped through an extra jack and the TX pairs from "Side B" looped through the remaining jack. On the two tap jacks (the extra jacks) that created, it was the TX pair that i hooked it to (so the RX on my laptop would see the traffic). To protect it i encased it in a LOT of hot glue :P
For what it's worth, i use a Cisco SLM2008 switch that is 10/100/1000 and managed. It's a small 8 port switch that runs about $120 online. It sounds like a lot, but for what you're getting (10/100/1000 managed switch that supports port security, vlans, mirroring, lag groups, jumbo packets, PoE (to power it, not for it to power other things (unfortunately)), etc) it's a great deal. Not to mention it won't degrade the network connection like a passive tap or hub may. I'm a network engineer, so i ALWAYS keep it in my bag for port sniffing or using it to allow a gig-only device to talk to a 10/100 device temporarily.
I also second WireShark for the analyzing software. It rocks!
Ahh good deal! I assumed no selectable level, but was unsure what the levels were. I'll have to test it on my remote control signal receiver I threw together to see if it works with the ols when I get to work tomorrow.
I'm probably just not looking in the right place, but what logic level does the OLS operate at? I have a saleae logic16 that operates at 1.8v-3.6v logic high OR 3.6v-5.0v logic high (selectable through software). I was just wondering what the logic threshold was for the OLS. I have one but i've always just fed it 5v signals so i have no clue what the cutoff is for low on it.
I am in need of a new soldering station at work. I have a Hakko 936 at home and love it, so i assume that the Hakko 888 would be sufficient (and relatively cheap). However, I am contemplating purchasing a combo station that also has hot air (i don't think i can clear getting a dedicated unit of each, since i only asked for a soldering iron, but i think i could swing a combo unit). I know the tools section of this site lists the Aoyue 968, and it seems to have good reviews, but i've also seen an 878AD (not sure the brand http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station ... 404&sr=1-2) and an 898D+ (also not sure the brand http://www.amazon.com/New-Rework-Solder ... 718&sr=1-1) reviewed on some site (but i can't find the review now). MickM in another post said he purchased a Blackjack 5000 (discontinued), but they now have the replacement model 5050 http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/10359.
I've never had experience with any of these, so suggestions would be helpful. Also, the money must be spent within the next week or so, so i've got limited time to check out options beyond asking for assistance and basic google searching. So if anyone has any other suggestions <$150-$175 USD i'm up for it (maybe able to push to $200, but that'd be the max... not sure if i can go that high though).
Side question, most seem to be hakko clones or compatible. Would you suggest starting out by buying the real hakko tips and/or heating elements, or just use the tips/elements that are shipped with them and replace with hakko when that time comes?
(this is more for my understanding than anything... i personally don't care about the moral/legal standpoint of what you are doing, but the business model confuses me) that's a very weird business model... so you can physically go to the company and "renew" your credits on the dongle, and use that, or if you don't do that, you still have to pay the equivalent amount? Why are they making you use the dongle since they are getting their money one way or another? Just to see the utilization of the tv, or potentially track what programs/channels/times were watched?
Well, the features/reviews of that unit seemed good, but it was only avaliable on e-bay. Ebay is not my first choice, i would prefer against it. However in my price range (< ~$150 US) ebay may be what i'm limited to.
I need a good (fairly reliable/accurate) LCR meter that won't break the bank. Primarily i need it for inductance, as i have a decent capacitance meter. Anyone have suggestions? I was looking at the Peak Atlas LCR40, and it seems to have decent reviews, but it's primarily avalible just on ebay, so i'm unsure about long-term (actually even short-term) support with it.
I'm primarily wanting it to tune manually wound coils. Hope you guys may be able to give suggestions.
