yes only I made it in proteus and it's not a free tool.. and there's a trough hole pic there ..
honestly this board is not very "friendly", I made it for parts I have in drawer not maybe "best parts". mcu should be smd too, also 18F2550 is not really the best solution today as it's too expensive compared to modern pics and it's pretty hard one to find (local companies don't sell it at all, can't even order it from microchip?!) ... also the op-amps, I selected some nice opamps but they are expensive and not easily sourceable, some other opamps might be better solution. Now if you wanna go with RTD sensor any rail to rail opamp will work but if you wanna go with TC it gets complicated as you have to use "fancy" opamps :D
I did some initial testing of how few of these cheap handles work (I did not test fancy cartridge based handles as they are not cheap, nor I had them in my drawer while I do have bunch of hakko klones and solomon handles around) and I made some simple circuit that make that all work with some basic firmware that drives it .. I expected someone with more time & patience to make a good smt pcb with some additions (better opamps, maybe control of the heater current/resistance to support more handles, maybe 3wire handle support.. nicer board..), all that happened was a PTH version by DP and few bug fixes of my (very rudimentary) firmware ..
I use 4 of these drivers for different purposes and they "work for me" but I did expect with 6 boards I sent out and 100 boards DP made I expected some improvements at least in firmware :( but nothing happened :(
I'm not that proud on how my pcb looks like :D the DB version is much nicer .. I made pcb to utilize what components I had on stock (the whole project is utilizing what I have in drawers :D ) so the pic is trough hole and bunch of other components are smt .. I hoped someone would make a good 100% smt version of the board too but Filip stopped after the trough hole version :(.
Those are the ones I made!! now if you purchase pcb from seed that is pcb made by dangerousprototypes based on my schematic and their files (eagle sources) are available on dangerousprototypes svn somewhere. DP never made their own version of firmware so you are stick with mine.
There are some fixes I made to the firmware that are not in the svn, also few others made some changes (that are also not in svn, some 'cause they are made imo stupid so I don't want to put that in svn and some 'cause I still haven't got time to look at them)... anyhow the project is designed to be "playground" not a usable soldering iron so the firmware up on the svn works well enough to be starting point to make your own
if it's a trough hole version of the pcb, it's ian's and it's made in eagle. I don't use eagle so you have to bug them. mine version (smd with few trough hole parts) hase bom in txt but my vendor for parts would not help you (local only)
I don't mind the jbc storyline :) .. lot of useful info about those tips .. I don't plan attm to go with V4 of the driver and support them too (especially as the universal driver is already out there, why make another one) but good to have info all in same place
:D because I have to make program run around usb interrupts and instead of usb working for me, I work for usb .. and I hate that. with uart I send char and forget about it, with usb your main loop is around usb and you do your "work" in spare time usb gives you .. not to mention how much flash and ram usb eats up :( (especially compared to uart).
the other thing is that 99% of devices I make don't need to talk non stop, they are stand alone devices that need to communicate with computer from time to time, so the whole usb thing is just waste of resources, I make a led port for uart available and I have my "universal" serial2usb card that I plug into that led port and I finish what I need to (debug, reprogram, download/upload data) and I use same "universal" board for all my devices .. (not to mention <2$ usb2uart cards on ebay that work like a charm, I pay only for usb connector locally 2$)
[quote author="sparkybg"] Technically, It is a trivial thing - you can either use USB-COM chip and isolate the TX and RX lines with digital isolators, or you can use ADuM3160/4160 for direct USB isolation. Both methods have their drawbacks. I've decided to use ADuM3160 for this task. We will see if it will perform as it should when I make the new PCB.[/quote]
hakko is quite complicated for removal, why the hack they did that I don't know, on td100 you take the tip out (with rubber pad) and press in the new one, takes 1sec to remove tip and continue to work. What I did notice is that JBC heats up bit faster (the huge one I tried, dunno about C210, will have to find one and try it out), for 3mm chisel tip with additional heat mass it takes 10, maybe 15 seconds to reach 350C, little less for the 2.5mm mini wave for e.g .. the big jbc I tried was 5-6 seconds to 350C, I was really impressed
3.5cm is perfect (is that from your hand/green piece, or from the end of the metal ring?), 5cm is too long for me for precise work and for work under microscope ... I'll have to go check out that C210. Afaik the handle I tried was 120W or something like that (I was told exactly but I forgot, maybe even 200W)
As for tip removal speed, I got some silicon pad with TD100 so I take the tip out with my hand and push in new tip, even faster then with this tpi stand but there's also tip stand for td100.. I assume hakko is also selling tip stands for their cartridges so with cartridges changing tips is super fast, no real race there ..
