Can't you right justify by sliding it on upside down?
I prefer the left justified. I find my eyes start at the end of the material anyway, when they encounter nothing the blank space feels confusing.
I guess printing on both sides is out of the question?
Just for reference, this is what Xilinx does. I guess the real question is when are you looking at the labels? Mostly during hookup, once they're in place do you read them?
For making instructions photos I guess it is handy to have them at the circuit, but perhaps colour is enough?
I'd also like to see a little more heat-shrink too, longer lengths just feel more robust (provided it is thick enough)
I use iteadstudio and really like their service. Postage does quickly get expensive though as pcbs are heavy. Their 5x5 service is about $14 for 10 boards shipped to Canada.
[quote author="Sleepwalker3"]I'd feel more confident if they took Paypal.[/quote]
Actually I've had trouble paying them (bank bounced the transaction). Alipay requires either verified by visa or mastercard securecode (yes I guess the certificate could be faked).
I think this thread is spam though. It's a pity to see a store I like generating spam.
I use newbuybay a lot they're very helpful. I think I've about 1k with them in the last 12 months. Have sent friends there too, they're still friends....
[quote author="TonyD"] I believe its the rich ecosystem of community, projects, add-on boards and variations both platforms have created that deserves the acknowledgement and if hype follows then so be it. [/quote]
Well said. I can do assembly/c/c++ on heaps of cpus but right now i'm using Arduino because of the rich library of drivers and schematics. My goal is the external outcome, i really don't mind what the internals are (nor do my kids who are my main audience).
I do hate the Arduino gui and use makefiles instead but that is not essential.
I've been running learn to SMD solder courses at my local hackspace. We've done flashing LEDs and are part way through a leonardo compatible build using a DP protoboard. I wanted to do something real and useful so I came up with the bus pirate v3 LTS workshop (LTS=learn to solder). [align=center:][/align:]
This is a Bus Pirate v3.6 schematic, redesigned to fit on an SOB 50x100 layout. I replaced all the smaller passives including the resistor networks with 1206 parts and spaced them well for ease of soldering. The goal is for people to start with the larger passives, work their way up to the regulators (wish I had used SOT223), then the SOIC parts and finally the FTDI part (which has no easy to solder variant).
Am running learn to SMD solder workshops at our local hackspace. SMD October uses the qfp surface mount protoboard to build a basic leonardo using the adafruit 32u4 schematic.
void setup() { pinMode(led, OUTPUT); // initialize the digital pin as an output. digitalWrite(button, HIGH); // pull-up }
void variableWait() { if (!digitalRead(button)) delay(250); // wait for quarter of a second else delay(1000); // wait for a second }
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever: void loop() { digitalWrite(led, HIGH); // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level) variableWait(); digitalWrite(led, LOW); // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW variableWait(); }
This is a nice board, I had a few suggestions if another rev of the board is every produced.
* Add resistor pads to the USB +/- data, these are in every usb circuit I've seen * Add decoupling caps to the power rails, you always need these, having to use wires to connect them up make them less effective * Add solderable bridge or 0R resistor pads to connect usb ground to board ground * Add solderable bridge or 0R resistor pads to connect usb VCC to board VCC * Add solderable bridge or 0R resistor pads to connect xtal ground to board ground * Add solderable bridge or 0R resistor pads to connect ground/vcc to one end of each button * Add solderable bridge or 0R resistor pads to connect ground to one end of each led * More power/ground pins around the QFP to avoid the mass of red and black wires
This workshop is described at http://vancouver.hackspace.ca/wp/2013/0 ... ompatible/ (sold out) Next workshop is another DP favourite, Bus Pirate v3 LTS. I've built an LTS variant of BPv3 on a 100x50 SOB PCB. LTS stands for learn to solder, it is all 1206 passives and leds (no resistor packs), the board is big for package spacing and uses SOIC variants of the pic and 4066. More soon. As per license, files will be released on github once tested.
All in all, buying from Taobao is kind of fun, there's deals to be had, and massive loads of time to be wasted just browsing the stores trying to "devise" your order to be as efficient as possible, and then having to start again because you stumble across something else that you just HAVE to get in there but you're already pushing up against the customs limit (here in NZ, $400) for a single order before your government will charge you taxes....[/quote][/quote]
Thanks for the laugh, i couldn't agree more. You have to be prepared to burn some of the savings on random crap. In my case I ordered a bunch of heavy stuff so the international shipping was a shock, SAL worked ok though and was more economic.
I've only done one order, it was heaps of fun, am getting ready for the next one now. The key to me was to find a seller who sold lots of things i wanted, saves on domestic shipping and limits the communications.
