I have just received my (second) Bus Pirate PCB (Free build, version 3.8, Seed Studio PCB) and I am going to order the parts for this one. (I am going to solder this one with my home built reflow oven). But I am having trouble sourcing the PIC24FJ at the moment (SSOP package). But I can order a PIC24FJ128GA202.
Can I use this one with this board, or should I wait for the moment I can order the correct (PIC24FJ64GA002) chip?
Regards,
Xander[/quote] Where are you located? Digikey has 3 - 4different SSOP packages of the PIC24FJ ATM (here) I didn't check mouser or other mainstream distributors, though.
So I don't know if maybe it was the HEX file or what (I'll post more information when I'm not at lunch and have time to get the info), but I was able to program from the IPE using the bootloader and firmware from the ZIP download whereas the most recent files in the code.google.com repository wouldn't even load.
Quite some time ago, I used a free PCB coupon to get and build a Bus Pirate (3.5). I finally got around to picking up something to program it with. I have zero experience with programming microcontrollers, so my questions may be quite simple. I decided to go with the PICkit3 since, from what I could tell, it is actively supported by microchip and was available via digikey when I was purchasing capacitors for a family member's LCD monitor revival.
After some of the issues I've been encountering and researching, though, it seems that maybe I should have gone with a PICkit2 or some kind of a clone? Anyways, I built the pirate exactly with the parts list, and the pickit recognizes the chip and everything when plugged into the ICSP header...but when I try to import the bootloader hex via the IPE, it just sits there and thinks for a LONG time and basically does nothing. Any suggestions or ideas? Any additional information I should provide?
[quote author="ian"]You can also mail it to me, I'll program it for you.[/quote] I might take you up on that offer...or maybe use my next coupon for a standalone BP and then use that...I imagine that has to be programmed first, too, though. lol.
[quote author="AndThen"]Microchip ships these devices with the low voltage programming enabled. In theory you could use winpic and an ECP parallel port with a few components. I've not had any success yet with lvp on the 18f2550 so far, but really haven't put much of effort into it.
If you have the BP and pic adapter, it is "by the book". If you only have a BP you can try the programmer application(picprog) recompiled to use low voltage mode. My failures could be due to my adapter not the BP or picprog.[/quote]
Unfortunately, I've got none of those. These free builds are essentially my first foray into real ECE. Prior to this it had most been minor repair jobs; replacing capacitors on LCD board, DC jack replacements on laptops, and repairing other various electronics.
[quote author="arhi"][quote author="EnsuingRequiem"]Nope, hooked it up for the first time and nothing happened...no sound from a new USB device, no activating the indicator LED.[/quote]
Did you program the pic with the firmware?[/quote]
Maybe I'm missing something, but isn't it programmed via USB? Or do I need a PIC programmer of some sort? This is the first time I've worked with a PIC or anything like that.
The issue I'm having, though, is that it won't recognize on any of the computers that I've connected it to. I've done continuity testing on all the pads, so it seems that all of the tracing is fine, which I would also assume means that my joints are all good. When testing voltage, though, I don't get the 3.3v that seems to be expected on pin 14. I'm at a bit of a loss here...not sure where the issue is that is keeping this from running right.
I assume that by smaller than specified, you mean smaller resistance compared to the 180Ohm one the v1 partlist? I know that the "ideal" resistor for my selected LED is a 39 Ohm, 1W. Considering the 0805 resistors in that amount of resistance max at 1/4W, should I just use a single one of those? I'm still pretty new to actual circuit design and calculations, so I'm not sure which value is okay to fudge a little; I just know that 5V is coming from that USB and that the LED need about 1.6V to run properly and not burn out or anything.
Okay, I'm working on getting together the parts for doing my Free PCB build for the USB IR Toy v1.1. My best guess based on tracing and pad placement/orientation is that this is a Rev 1 board. I'm fairly certain that I've got all the components, but I'm down to the LED for TX and R4 parts. For the LED I chose this. Based on availability of the 0805 resistor values at mouser, I assume that I would need to put 4 10Ohm, 1/4W resistors in parallel or 4 ~156Ohm, 1/4W resistors in a series? Am I missing something here, or is this one just that tricky? Any tips on how to properly carry this out? The only picture of this particular revision I can find only shows a single resistor on the PCB...
Just got done with my BusPirate Free PCB Build today. Haven't had a chance to test it or anything like that (honestly don't even have an arduino yet LOL). I'm actually pretty proud as it was my first SMD soldering attempt and I think I did everything right. I'm not as sure on capacitors/diodes and their placement direction.
