Something like a wood bending jig maybe. Have you seen these. It is a tube on two cross braces, they feed steam in the back.
Let us build a pseudo hardware..
Inner and outer shell: 2 Coffee cans Large and Medium Or 1 Medium Coffee can 1 soup can
Centering/Stand-off device: 1 soup can. Some amount of fiberglass type insulation, Foil wad may suffice
Lid: Pie tin, Aluminium foil, Another flattened can.
Heater: Paint stripper, Air wand, Charcoal fire?
Heater stand: Soda pop, Soup cans, They create a cradle when crushed. Use two crushed into cradles for paint gun. for Air wand same or cut cradles in the tops. Wire coat hangar, if the heater is light enough or enough are used.
Proceedure: 1: Cut three sided rectangle/square in bottom of inner can, leave flap for airflow adjustment and direction tuning.
2: Cut entry hole in the large. You can choose direct flow or Circumferential(I swear i didn't invent that word) a: For direct flow enter the bottom of the outer can, off-center for adjustment purposes, with a hole sized for heater b: For circular flow, enter the side near the bottom. Large cans can fit the paint gun here, small cans might not leave enough PCB space.
3: Put on leather gloves, or get band-aid ready. a: Cut third can length wise, if you have one, into three nearly even concaved pieces. b: Cut three small strips from these cutting across the short side about a finger width from the top, these will be feet later
4: With some luck the larger strips will wedge the inner can. a: Place the outer can long end on the table. b: place two braces inside the bottom, left and right of center c: place inner can on braces, d: separate the braces so the can looks centered. e: Wedge third/last brace at the top. F: If it doesn't fit force it, if it's sloppy increase the dish in the braces.
5: Feet/Anti roll device a: bend each foot pieces into a V, now fold down the ends like to make a M. Should look like _A_ with out the middle brace. b: I'm getting lazy get the screw gun, rivet gun, or work out the H tabs and slots. c: Attach feet,
6: Using "poking device" of your choice, stuff insulation down the sides. The primary goal is to fill the bottom, so the hot air chooses the easy path. a: "Flake" the fiber glass into sheets, and cut strips (hand width) b: Wrap several folded strips (fold short length, 1-2 times) on the bottom of the inner can. Medium taunt. Test fit until close fit. c: Add 1 layers of tight wrap, folded 3-4 . We want a slip fit. "Strip C" loosens and lets the inner stuffing expand. D: poke it with a stick! Gently at first. The smaller tight wrap lets the upper portion slide over it some. After one circle of tamping, add more stuffing until you run out get bored or it is full.
7: Cap it off, some origami foil work is in order here. And is left largely to the artist. It shouldn't be a tight fit just a restriction, and easy to remove.
8: Adjust air flap. a: Side feed shove it to the bottom of outter with a bit of twist. Picture a car ramp in large parking structure. b: Bottom feed, the flap is a baffle in this setup, Adjust to reduce air speed. Perhaps a crease in the center to stiffen it.
That maybe lost some coherency between the brain and keyboard, The feet and flap adjust ments need consideration before the stuffing.
Brute force! I still solder in the dark ages, It is the only way with a 35(?) watt Radio Shhack.
The custom tip is the only thing note worthy. I really hate the round pointy bits. It is now a diamond like or screw driver shape, _/ the angled sides are flat .81mm or so. It has to serve multiple functions or I'd have gone smaller.
I would not solder anything I really liked, eg not easily replaceable, and not get some practice warm up on something else directly before hand. It doesn't turn out well using "dark-age" method. Some of it's best work doesn't "show" well, the parts they replace burnt the board pretty bad looks like my fault.
I did notice the preheating, I noted or thought "it was too close too long and something started to flow". There maybe time lapse altering the audio, the air sounded jet like. In fact there is one point you see a/many solder balls leaving the area.
Please don't think you did bad, I loved it! My comments are just comments.
I'm thinking reflow plate is the cheapest dyi method for things you can't get at with iron. This will be my approach, 2nd hand hotplate, or toaster with fire brick. I know these work. I believe the only difference between the home built manual timed ones and the big fancy commercial ones are the software, insulation, and above all cost. The first two issues can be solved with time and effort, and they are a large portion of the cost aside from R&D and scale.
Perhaps a nice ebay pencil and the open sourced iron drivers.
It is important to note that the preheat and ramp down are multiple-purpose. 1: It decreases the high temp, solder flow time 2: It normalizes thermal expansion, both in the chip and in the chip to board connections.
A appropriate demonstration is maybe cold water on a hot light bulb, common failure for a mechanics drop light.
Figure 1 shows the internal lead, and we all know any picture with that color scheme means really really small =D
The TIP signal does not center on TARGET, is this intentional? Wouldn't target +/- noise be better for fast response to initial contact?
The TIP fluctuation is 2 at the 250 setting but 2.5 at the 265 setting, and the ringing magnifies also. Just something I noticed might not be an issue at all.
I keep trying to load it into sdram (maybe, nothing changed in the lowlevel), or someone talked bad about it and it heard them.
I'm was still typing the make commands out by hand sram sdram it's not hard to mess up..
should work now, I have automated it and added time stamp to the packages, MR Murphy will find somewhere else to linger now. =)
The applets should probably have , and the sam-ba setup, binarys and tcl that support the varied columns and rows? There are issues just cloning the modified -ek board to dp1arm9, the linking fails because of being over the SRAM size. I'm missing a step somewhere, or it just doesn't do what I think it should (yet)
Worked most of the parts list into a mouser project, with the old schematic (need to rearrange the downloads in the wiki and add the Linux_board.va. sch), this still needs the resistors, and matched up with the one linked a few pages back for the tight tolerance stuff.
The Alliance SDRAM can be purchased directly for very good prices, but 25$ S&H or about 8-13 if you pay the Shipping via UPS/FEDex account. Lots of 10 at less than 5$ unit that beats the full reel prices from mouser. http://www.alliancememory.com/products/buynow.htm
The micron SDRAM is in a transition phase of some sort, it maybe extended life parts i'm not sure, where the Alliance is definitely extended life.
I was unifying the packages in the sch to use all dp_device's, there are SparkFun dp, and rcl libs being used for standard stuff like caps, when i finished is when i found out I had old schematics (2011-05 ones) because there were way too many missing tracks in the board file. The different uses of 0.1u and 0.1uF and such make the BOM ugly also. Will need to redo that also.
I lost my datasheets for the memory and they're not coming back willingly (I forgot to save to disk) there might be pin out issues with the 64M(4's) vs the 256M(16's) chips? I recall some data lines moving on one SDRAM sheet
See a few new downloads for the definatly bad sam-ba applets, here is one that I don't know of issues in yet. [attachment=0]
I'll work up the 128 and 256 ones here shortly when i get bored again.
P.S. If someone wants to sponsor me some hardware I wouldn't refuse it =D I'm unemployed it's winter 3 miles to the village, 30 to the edge of the city and I don't drive, eg. I have way more free time then $$
Could be my fault still, I increased the column count one bit more than it needed (like the ref design)
If you care to elaborate on the issues I can take another shot or two. I'm really just shooting in the dark and thats the last target with glowing the dark paint bulls eye.
Of course you are running the windows version, I downloaded a linux cd over 1meg dsl last night....
That is linux 2.11, built with the 2008 q3
This is 2.10 from windows.
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there might be one more of these a flash one indicated in the board.mak, but there aren't linker files for it. at anyrate the sram one is what shows up in the build.log from atmel
don't forget to change the tcl to 16 width (I almost forgot to edit the applet for 2.10 *shrug*, it's early for me)
[quote author="sqkybeaver"]update: there needs to be custom applets for sam-ba, the included binaries are all for 32 bit wide sdram and are uncompatable.[/quote]
Can you elaborate? It seems the at91sam9260-ek binary already reads the data bus width from the tcl.
