I would like to share my tindie love diy experience, I have changed all parts including resistors and capacitors on the front PCB from the back PCB I have replaced all capacitors & zener after that voltage matched the images I found in this forum, I have tested all resistors one by one and sadly I found 11 wrong values no wonder why U8 was changed 3 times. This challenge cost me an extra €58 from digikey, Thanks love Diy for offering zero support or care.
The real thanks goes to my friend Tim. Finally I have a working unit thanks sparkyBG.
511 was solved by checking what Sparkybg suggested sens A/B area, I put All parts new in that section as mentioned in my previous post a month ago, the mosfets solved the iron not getting hot.
Re Encoder I do not need something fancy I will ask seller thanks for the help.
Press and hold center button until "CONTOL SELECTION" menu is shown
Thanks this answer my question since I thought you need to enable encoder. My board does nothing if I press middle btn for 30 secs all it does enter in menu shall I risk update the latest firmware via usb since I do not have pickit? Re Encoder before I buy is it possible to confirm if this will work ?
Thanks for good explanation, I have done a quick image from what I understood while reading others comments as well, I hope this help anyone that wish to add encoder. Re firmware I believe it has to be latest and is there any settings I have to enable/disable in the menu to have the encoder working?
I would like to say thanks for anyone that help me in the correct direction. I manage to fix the tindie nightmare board. Now I am seeing correct voltages and it is working again and passed calibration test.My next task is to install the encoder however it is not clear what steps I have to do:
1> Remove buttons ? 2> Remove pull-downs R36, R40, R41 ? 3> Install external pull-ups ? 4> How did SparkyBg manage to use EC11 5v with 3.3v or for mechanical encoder voltage not important? 5> I notice the front pcb have 5 connections but in this image SparkyBg is using 4 Wires and short 2 pins on the encoder, would it be possible to have more information and wiring diagram if possible ?
This was the solution to fix my pcb: Parts arrived this week, have replaced all mosfets even though some passed the test suggested and some failed, C22 , C8 & C11 where giving incorrect values from 220uf it was found 37uf using.This board was never shorted or handled incorrect so do not ask me how or why all these components failed at the same time. My friend believe all started from the cheap capacitors which failed and overload the mosfets.
Have you checked this video ? https://youtu.be/DxMKBO0CdHQ (vulkan35) this is almost my same issue. Thanks, my native language is French so maybe I do not know how to explain myself enough in English, sure we know basic electronics but we do not know how to find the wrong faulty part in this Unisolder.
I have more questions re the PCB condition now J4 is not an easy task to remove for someone that is not into electronics!!!
The PCB has nothing wrong. I admit vulkan35 I did the damage does this makes you feel better just help me please? If I did any damage I am not aware, I am already frastrauted enough with the PCB not working so telling me that I did this mess does not help.
SparkyBG is this 511c a bug ? Any hint why DC or AC is being detected as DC.
Nothing was last week my friend removed U8 , U2 and U13, (U10 , U12 , U16 was also DE-soldered just for testing) also removed C8 and J4 to prevent damage to the plastic, he repairs mobile phones for living so I guess he knows what he is doing at least I trust him but he is doing just what I tell him. Please understand my situation I tried to contact from where it was bought till today I got no message back, fail by themselves no and fix by themselves neither also note I am paying this guy each time he try to fix it but I want this badly to work. So you are saying the 511c is a bug? If yes how come me and you only have this issue and was never reported ?
These letters signify the power mode: yours is DC, one Eighth of full voltage (DCE), vulkan's movie shows a JBC C105 tip, which is operated at 1/4 of total voltage, and he is on AC. so AC, Quarter voltage (ACQ)
This makes sense, we just tried AC 24V 90W in the AC connector and still remain DCE, I guess I found another problem which chip is responsible to detect if the power is coming from DC or AC?
I use the original connector of the T12, we put the resistors on the female part which I bought to match the original connector, if i add different handle in the near future I will do custom adapters at least that what we had in mind. Re video already upload my problem after changing U8 it is still the same after changing U2 & U3. Thanks
Re Flux it does not mean it was repaired, if anyone uses the stencil method/reflow it is normal that you see touch-ups due to defects that's why I do not like this method but that is my opinion. Let's say you bake 10 PCB in the Heater Reflow Oven at correct temp profile, no matter how hard you try there is always gonna be problems unless done by a robot (Pick and place machine).
I understand that defects happen but you do send them to the customers, I pretend if a board failed should be listed as failed / repaired, hope you agree with me.
Draw you mean how the wires are connected ? Power supply DC 20A bench type and Earth from mains connected to heater. We follow this below and work fine for almost 7 days before it stopped working.
1. HAKKO T12: Outer shell, and heater negative (middle) terminal connected together to Vout1- and EARTH heater positive (bottom terminal) connected to Vout1+ and SENSEA 1k resistor between ID and Vout1- 5.6k resistor between ID and Vout2-
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