I am not sure you understand what I mean, give Unisolder 24VC DC and see if you replicate the issue not the iron itself. RePower supply minimum suggested is 24V @ 5AMP which is 30V @ 4AMP.
Glad you make work the compiler V3 but 2.50 work perfectly with no warnings/errors as suggest by Vulkan35 but as long you see build success I guess it should be fine.
Hi [quote author=RRRoamer link=msg=73347 date=1621055882] So some progress. I got tired of fighting with the hundreds of warnings and linking errors
[/quote]
Hi RRRoamer,
Hope my posts help and the answers maybe more, if you are like me and installed many versions over each other will not look good. I gave up trying and I can understand your frustration I hate to ask stuff that is not related to Unisolder in here but without knowing which version will work was hard to keep trying.
I have tried your wiring and can confirm it works perfectly with the DSX80 maybe the heater is not the same and indeed the wiring was my problem. The firmware mods suggested by Sparky does not work on the DSX80.
Find attached my testing, It shoots up by 7c while heating and I am super happy with that and I believe these type of heater is normal behaviour.
Thanks Vulkan, malec and sparky. The main issue was Windows 10 with all the versions installed still does not work on this bloody OS. On Windows 7 work on 1st try.
Re DSX80 still saying open sensor so I still believe the wiring is wrong. Please help me understand this line:
>>Would it be possible to ask if I have to short any wires such as Vout1- and SenseB since I did not understand this line very well?
WELLER WSP80: - Outer shell, PTC negative and heater negative (white, black and brown wires) connected to EARTH, Vout1- and SENSEB.,
This is my wiring, (* = Switch for vacuum) :
Blue = Vout1+ (6.5R) Brown * = Vout1-(6.5R) White = Earth Red = SenseA (22R) Black = SenseB (22R) Purple * = Switch
I require the versions of the software you are using to make compile possible.
I am using the following : Product Version: MPLAB X IDE v5.45 Java: 1.8.0_222; OpenJDK 64-Bit Server VM 25.222-b10 Runtime: OpenJDK Runtime Environment 1.8.0_222-b10 System: Windows 10 version === Compiler : xc32-v3.00-full-install-windows-installer.exe === Support for legacy code: pic32 legacy peripheral libraries.zip
As I said above not sure about this line re-wiring:
>Would it be possible to ask if I have to short any wires such as Vout1- and SenseB since I did not understand this line very well?
WELLER WSP80: - Outer shell, PTC negative and heater negative (white, black and brown wires) connected to EARTH, Vout1- and SENSEB.,
The DXS80 has no electronics just Fraglie PCB and a little switch for the pump, I do not suggest open USED iron since this might break it if the PCB inside is cooked so do that at your own risk.
Re Firmware would it be possible to share which versions you are using please since I tried it on 5.45 and it failed to compile,
As far as I know, the DXV80 is the same heater as the DSX80 just straight instead of 90 degrees, they also share the same TIPS starting from 0 to 7.
Not saying that we should not tweak the firmware for optimization but we need to make sure the wiring is fine which I believe mine is wrong since nobody ever mentioned that we need to create a custom profile but the users that have DSX80 had success with the WSP80 profile which also happen to be same colour coding and heater iron specifications.
If we read JBC EXTEND TIPS LIFE, tip change in the list that extends the life of the JBC equipment and make it safer to allow quick change. On Unisolder I am not worried about inserting the tips (hot-swap) since there is a delay and when power is back it will be full contact.
When I remove the cartridges I do it fast using the correct stand and I do it only when it is reading 0 Watt & 0 V if any it will be low spark it should not arch or pit the contacts.
Since my IRON stand support TIP CHANGE, I will enable the tip changer since I believe it is good to have but not a must.
Some people manage to kill the JBC cartridges in less than 6months how and why still not sure but keep in mind they are sensitive to WATER (thermal shock) , FLUX corrosion (Cheap flux), Overheat temperature ( over 380c is bad USE preheater if you require such temp) & dropping the cartridges may also damage the heater.
My question is, what is the benefit of using the tip-change function? (instead of just hot-swapping). Was the tip-change mode just added to try and more closely match the original JBC functionality or was it to try and solve an issue with hot-swapping? (like those noted above)
Hi FriedEngineer,
I have been using c245 / 210 on daily basis for the past 2 years with no tip change and never had any issues on different stations.
The latest minkok circuit supports the tip-change, I am moving to this circuit, not because of the tip change but since I believe it is the best circuit so far.
I have tried almost all in this forum and some have some serious issues at random such as freeze and refuse to wake up from sleep or burn the chip (4001) at random. The advantage of tip change is to safely remove tips but in my opinion, it is optional but good to have if you care about the tips.
Thanks for sharing your results. I did your same test on my working 5.2c and my result with Back only was 3.297V and -0.581V. With Front connected 3.17V and -0.687V.
With an oscilloscope, you can compare datasheet behaviour or images from working Unisolder. Understanding each component in depth is a must to decide if it is faulty or not.
Would it be possible to share FRONT and BACK images (as close as possible)maybe someone in here can spot other issues or share any other possible reason why your -0.6 is 0.1V with both connected?
How do I check? I checked the triode, their pins have voltage, but I don't know how to make sure they are working properly I replaced the cable, and nothing changed
Unless you have an oscilloscope you cannot do much, however, with a simple VM you can get an idea, -0.6V.
Check the following : FRONT: C36, C37, C38, C39 , U18, U16 Back: Check image.
What "afedorov" suggested is correct however you need to have the correct voltage to worry about any other issue.
1> Have you checked for any possible short circuit? 2> Are all components in the correct position and polarity? 3> Have you tested all PINS on all chips that are all connected with a good solder joint?
My work -0.689 all time and voltage is stable no matter what I do. I would check all diodes & transistors that are on the correct assignment, also I would check for shorts on the -0.6v rail.
Is the picture you provided to let me check the 6pin socket?
Yes, that is a good way to verify that all diodes are doing the correct rectification The voltages have to be in that exact range of figures. Replace what you think might be wrong and let us know good luck.
I suggest putting everything as it says in the BOM and checking all voltages that are correct. I notice you are using DC from the photos, have you tried AC?
Re BOM missing stuff it is not the case, just make sure to get the correct pitch size with it is 2.54mm. J4, J8 2 CNTR Header, 10-Pin CABLE HEADER 2x5 2.54mm 2x5x2.54
