Being angry is not going to help you fix it however I can understand that. Why it happened who knows since there might be 100 reasons.
You bought the PCB from LoveDiy, so I suggest asking that question at the source since he knows what he used, just do not pretend a miracle from Chinese sellers after gave them money means no after-sales support it's pretty standard and it is up to you to fx it now just take it as a challenge, if you get stuck many good people are here to help you.
Those are nice enough, but as I said, I need one that is under 94mm in width and height. This only leaves this 160VA option:
I think it will work fine unless someone says otherwise however still I prefer toroidal for Unisolder due to the high sudden current demand, they are the best transformers you can get and if I had your situation re size I would make it fit or change the case.
If he has no varnish on hand he will be better to replace as suggested by himself and not waste time. As Vulkan35 mentioned if it is damaged, overheating etc it is not gonna fix it but trying is not gonna harm anything.
Re 120va I was surprised to find out that 120va work fine with C245 and did not notice any difference in performance. I am still not sure what happens in the long run though so still I suggest 150va plus as per sparky design.
If you try to go under 120va with C245 not sure if you damage any components do not have a spare board to test this out but I suspect the answer is yes so anyone with new boards please use a proper power supply which is 24v @ 6amp DC or AC.
@minkok How do you explain that he managed to get it working with no problems and as soon he gets the board out of sleep it will get damaged? Could it be that low amp damage the PCB components in any way?
His power supply should be fine 24v DC @ 6A (30v DC @ 5A ) however just tested mine using his same tip and inrush amps were found 5.3amp.
Re Heat not sure that his power supply is able to inject low voltage while going in CC to spot what is getting hot by touch or thermal camera.
Any pointers/things to look into would be greatly appreciated.
4 amp and 0c on Iron is not good. I remember reading this by someone a couple of months ago, it was related to tindie boards 5.2c issues with MOSFETs, in 2 different cases, they said the same which is the board received was working fine but after few hours of use died claiming that they did nothing to the board. If I remember well they had issues with U8 and Q1 short to ground, I would suggest testing for short, if everything is ok double check the wiring, a 4 amp should be enough to feel the heat with your hands somewhere.
If you remove the iron from the Molex plug and sensor board from the board side still take 4 amp?
The best is the BLDC motor but not sure if I have access to that, they are super expensive. If I am lucky and manage to find I can add extra features and will justify the use of an external MCU such as the Arduino mini @ 3.3v. These motor work on PWM @ 6kHZ signal.
This will allow me to add a Bar vacuum meter, Flow/pressure control and current at max 2bar for less than 12W which is a luxury and meet all my specs, these are just hard to find for less than €250 - €400 NEW depending on the model. (Made in Germany).
Oh, and tronix, I am thinking of doing something stupid complex for vacuum control because I have the parts.
I am trying to do the opposite of what you are doing which is to make everything in one enclosure using just 1 PSU for the pump and Unisolder. I do not have in mind to touch anything related to the Unisolder board there is no need, taking anything from the current PIC will be an extreme measure.
So I will keep this simple using either optocoupler or inverting and non-inverting hex buffers IC, I have found a couple of examples that should work on 12V/24V as suggested by Sparky.
I have access to 28 surplus medical machines (2016) which all have nice vacuum pumps at work, the ones I currently tested take way too much current so next Tuesday will take apart more machines. If I find something better it will not be free but 75% cheaper than buying it new, I hope I find a smaller one with the same specs or better.
I would like to correct myself rewiring to switch the pump, it is not Brown and Purple but Blue and Purple. Blue and Purple = 44K OHM OPEN and when you press the button = 6.3R OHM, This is for the DSX80.
As always care while playing with voltages in most cases you will have only one chance and I was super close to blowing the Unisolder applying 22v to the PCB killing the switch and the components it has hidden inside somewhere which are 2 Inductors 100Uh, a capacitor 1nf and a 44k Resistor.
>>>Your iron works with my suggested values for profile? No, with the new mod it says 242c and remains cold but it works perfectly with the default WSP80 at least for the DSX80. Yes, I found it spot on WELL DONE with 7c +- while heating only, I cannot ask for more.
While testing I found something scary that may kill the Unisolder if used incorrect so yes your suggestion for Opto is a must. I have tried the following and luckily enough it was just a test with the multimeter.
The Purple wire has a 22V DC constant while in operation (Measurements taken from Purple wire = - and unsolder Fuse = +) and If I press the button it will go up slowly to 23V DC (6secs +-) therefore external circuit is needed.
If I am missing anything feel free to let me know.
Just as soon as I figure out what is going on with the transformer of course.
The transformer is easy to test and worst-case buy a new one easy fix, glad you found what is wrong.
Let's talk re the next step which is hooking the Vacuum pump. I have in mind to design an encloser for the vacuum pump which will require 24V DC from the same plug of the Weller.
For the past week, I have spent a lot of my free time reading datasheets and I learned a lot.
1> Care when selecting a pump since there are different purpose on the market. Pressure vacuum, Gas Vacuum, Liquid Vacuum and Vacuum Air (ofc we need Vacuum air)
2> The type of motor used in the pump will make a dramatic difference in Current and Noise, this step will depend on your budget.
3> Make sure it is around 1bar of suction over that I was told it will be overkill, 0.8bar seems standard in these factory desoldering guns.
@sparkybg Would it be possible to ask for help in code to get 24V DC power on Channel 2 all the time when selecting the WSP80 profile? My Target is to get 24V DC all the time on the following pinout Vout1- and Vout2+.
This will avoid having extra wires and 2nd PSU. Any suggestions are welcome.
