Open Source Hardware
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It seems to be one of our participants Catear
There is no PCB available for this one. Do you have a Gerber file that you can share?The 339 hibernation board was purchased from someone else, and I don’t have a gerber file yet.
Sorry I am back to the same Doomedahab videost and ht only represent that the state has changed, but it does not mean that the temperature has been reached, so when the sleep pcb is unstable, the state will change back and forth, but the temperature is too late to change.
https://youtube.com/shorts/VBfNn3cyi1Y?feature=share,
what puzzled me is the HT temp which is set to 250 C* and ST set to 170 C*.
How it is possible to jump from ST to HT without changing the current Temp on the display?
Where is the mess with the contact sensing circuit?
Hi Catear, which HW version of the Contact sensing circuit you found not working with your FW? Can you show us an oscillogram of the output of the sensing circuit or at least a multimeter's readings at the output? Could you explain to us if it is from the contact sensing, why sparky's FW is ok, but your's not?This is a very simple problem, because the sparky firmware does not display the two states of sleep and hold, and there is no sound prompt, so even if the two states switch back and forth, it is difficult to find from the temperature. We have tested too much With this version of the hardware, only 339 pcb can work stably in the end. If the sleep line and the handle line are separated, the effect will be more ideal
Hello Catear !I have something to do these days, I will sort it out and send it to you when I have time.
I plan on getting a Unisolder readymade (from tindle) and a good custom transformer (I know a good factory that makes toroidal transformers in my country).
It is going to be a gift.
Modding it so it can properly "do" 48v + C470 cartridges would make it even more awesome gift, methinks, and from reading the thread (okay, most of it) I've gathered you've succeeded at doing exactly that.
Unfortunately from reading your posts I didn't quite comprehend the full scope of such mod (which components need to be replaced? etc.)
When you have time, would you be so kind as to document / explain / photo your mod, so I can reproduce it, hopefully without breaking anything?
Hi Catear,Your touch sleep pcb is unstable. It is recommended to replace it with sparky version 339 sleep pcb.
On my T210 iron it's even more obvious: At Sleep Temp, the firmware switches between HT and ST constantly, causing constant beeping:
https://youtube.com/shorts/VBfNn3cyi1Y?feature=share
in that case, is it possible for the FW to be heavier the time it needs to calculate ( work ) on C210not at all
Sparky just mentioned above for the differences b/n cartridges, did you bridge some part of his FWNo, I haven’t changed much of the key things
I agree in theory, but somehow I cannot get the same result with C210 on your FW compared to Sparky FW. Changing C1 on C210 does not seem to have much effect.Under the original firmware parameters, my 210 has never been accurate. I don’t think I need to look forward to the effect of recompiling, because it will have the same effect as directly modifying the value on the menu.
I will patiently wait on your FW with the standard iron profiles based on the latest Sparky FW. I will say that you did a really great job on the rotary encoder code. It is much better.
This is very important indeed. To illustrate: I re calibrated with two 0,1% 10 ohm resistors. One resistor gives a R: value of 1001, the other 997. When I take this as the calibration, the difference between the two irons is only 6 degrees instead of 25 degrees with my previous calibration value that I changed slightly when calibrating with pure lead.The ideal effect can be obtained by using my firmware. First calibrate with 10r, and then adjust c1 so that each iron rod can melt the solder at the same temperature
This means to me that calibrating with melting temp can give a good result for a specific tip, but it will throw off the calibration of other tips/irons. The best thing is to accept a small offset per tip, and make sure you calibrate as close to R: 1000 as possible for most consistent behavior.
That sounds great, thank you !!Some parameters of the red line as shown in the figure above, just modify them on the menu.
Can anyone in the meantime let me know what the standard parameters are for T245 and T210?
If you think I am accusing you of violating the open source agreement I am sorry that is not what I mean. I understand completely this is just a personal project for you and your friends. But it would be great to at least have a version with the standard iron settings because the rest of the FW is much more complete and I would love to use it :-)I haven't found a suitable standard yet. As I said, there are two groups of people, and two situations have emerged. In each group, they have their own standards. That's why I designed it to be adjustable. I will recompile it again according to the parameters of the original firmware later, but this requires a lot of work. After I have compiled it, I will re-upload it.
Catear, why don't compile the firmware again with the original sparky's profiles, to be able to be checked from Doomedahab if your FW or HW is faultyI can recompile, but there are more than a dozen handle parameters that need to be modified. It may take a lot of time and check, because the code has been changed a lot, and it can not be completed by simply copying and pasting. Wait for me to change it. , I will upload again. But it will take some time
Hi Catear, You've made a wonderful FW, which you shared in the spirit of this project, which is to say, this project should be free and public to use. So thank you a lot!The key parameters can be adjusted on the firmware. You can refer to the original firmware to adjust the corresponding parameters to be the same as the original. This is not difficult. This firmware has been changed many times, and many codes have been modified, and the changes are messy. I chose to release the compiled version, which does not violate the spirit of sharing. Besides, I am not used for commercial purposes. It is purely a personal hobby. This does not violate the open source agreement.
But please do not take this the wrong way, why will you not share the source code? You yourself were able to use the source code Sparky wrote to adapt it to your liking. Would it not be in the same spirit of this project to share the source code so that others can build on it again?
Or at least could you share the original Sparky parameters in the iron config?
You are either using fake tip/handle/whatever or you have a hardware/power/earth/calibration problem. As I said before my 4 C210 tips and maybe 8 C245 tips are tested on at least 7 controllers, 5 of which are not made by me. Discrepancy is less than 5 degrees celsius. The only common thing is the enclosure, the transformer, and myself testing and calibrating them, NOT using thremometer but eutectic 63/37 (183C melting point) alloy and pure lead (327.5C melting point). I explained several times already why measuring a small tips (as C210 and smaller) with thermometer is not accurate - it loads the tip. measuring with alloy with known temperature on the tip is the only "home" method with 100% accuracy. Another method is using heat-insulated thermometer, but these are pretty expensive.I use a genuine new handle and tips. As for why this is the case, I don’t know, but the friends around me all assembled by myself and all encountered the same problem, and these handles and tips were used in genuine JBC soldering stations, and it became normal and accurate. I don't know how to parse this problem.Maybe it's really a problem with my pcb
I am consideting an option for temperature overload, depending on the current power of the tip, because when the tip is thermally loaded, there will always be a difference between the measured temperature where the sensor is, and the real temperature of the tip where the solder is. The more power transferred - the larger the difference will be. Although this is highly dependant from tip-s geometry and phisical dimensions, when tuned properly it will bring us close to the real temperature of the tip. Unfortunately, this involves correcting the iron profiles again, most notably the PID coefficients in order for the regulation to remain stable.