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Messages - darkr3ign

17
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Checked the pinout, everything is wired up right.
Maybe the colorcode is wrong (Its a chinese clone T210)

I meassured the resistance between the outershell and the wires:
Shell - blue 3.5Ohm
Shell - red 1,9Ohm
Shell - green 1.9Ohm
18
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
The new Diodes arrived and the C245 now works perfectly.
The C210 on the other hand, senses a temperature wich is way too low, and therefore heating the tip until its dead.

Any idea why thos could be? I wire everything up according to the first page of this post
21
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Quote from: Morpheus1979 on
@darkr3ign
Is it a precise 10 Ohm resistor (0,1%)?

If it is you may want to try to fix this problem as described here by 'sparkybg':

http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/index.php?topic=7218.msg66497#msg66497

Yes its a 0,1% 10ohm resistor.
I check what resistors i have lying around here and try this

Here are some photos of front and back PCB, maybe you can spot something thats not right. I checked the soldering and it looks fine to me.

https://puu.sh/GFG98/3834898c14.jpg
https://puu.sh/GFG95/a97499a8e3.jpg
(uploaded extermaly because of filesize)


Are there any points i could measure to maybe get closer to which part of the board is failing?
22
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
I flashed the firmware for the SH1106 Display and now the display works fine.

I tried to calibrate the Station, but cant get the R Value to even close the value i need it to go to.
I have a 10Ohm Resistor between SenseA and Vout1-, but the Poti just changes the value from around 30-40

The Calibration Menu says following:

ID: 25 25
CURRENT: 0 128
ADC: 20
R: 40
ROOM: 22

I tried to resolder Q2 Q8 Q10 Q11, but this changed nothing.
23
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Hey guys I finally found the time to continue on my Unisolder.
I wired up the Power and Data between Front and Back and pluged it in for the first time,

The display shows something, tho its very distorted.

I used this exact OLED:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-49-0-91-0-96-Zoll-1-3-Zoll-I2C-SPI-OLED-LCD-Display-SSD1306-Modul/174288194306?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=473348596822&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used the original Firmware from this post 1 in this Forum.

Cant see this in the Photo, but the upper Bar with "0W 0C" is actually racing from right to left very quickly.

Does anybody have any tips on what went wrong?
24
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Hey guys, i struggle a bit in identifying wich pin is wich on J2, J3 and J9.
The silkscreen doesnt really help in terms of orientation like with J4 and J8.
Could anybody provide me with a picture?
25
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Quote from: cobramostar on
how do you translate this page
You will have a hard time to order there anyway, you need a 3rd Party wich buys the items on taobao and then sends them to you.
I used superbuy.com for this.

You can just enter the taobao link in the big searchfield and it translates the page for you.


The T210 handle you posted was not available, do you have another cheap alternative @vulkan35 ?
I couldn't find any.
26
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Quote from: vulkan35 on
JBC T210-A, T245-A
Hirose Electric series RP
Panel Connectors
PartNumber: RPC1-12RB-6P(71)
Cable Connectors
PartNumber: RPC1-12P-6S(73)

So i guess I'll just get the T245/T210 connector and rewire the original connector of the T210 when get it. I think about the tweezers when i get them.

Quote from: minkok on
"Earth" exactly, not only a name, but you can connect the pin to earth or leave it not connected to it, in both cases will work.

Is there any benefit one over the other connecting it or not?
27
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Quote from: minkok on
Ooops, Sorry, I looked at the Sparkybg BOM , obsolate LED display parts was included not changed. Now from the schematics it is 10uH for OLED. Sorry again for the mistake
L3: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_SXN-Shun-Xiang-Nuo-Elec-SMNR4020-10UH_C135263.html  - is ok also, but preferable shielded
No problem. I already ordered from LCSC, so i will just get the following Inductor from mouser:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Coilcraft/LPS4018-103MRB?qs=QQJxVsr8EGYtnXPp5liaRw%3D%3D
This one should work?

Quote from: minkok on
You should choose the right connectors for you. If you are going to use just one series of JBC, let say 245 - use original connector and connect sensing resistors and ins inside the case, but what about if you want to use multiple hand pieces, in that case use sparkybg design from first page 8 pin aviation connector. Recently here was mentioned about using transformer for 24V with middle point 12V for powering 40w tools and switching by relay - make the right choice from now for what tools you are going to use it.
About J5 & J6 look first at https://5n44p.github.io/unisolder-chips/ which can help you for mounting also. ( sorry link is not valid ), I will attach it for you ( it is made from other guy )


For now I only plan on using the T245, but later i might also use the T210. Maybe maybe the JBC Tweezer in the future.
So I guess its easier to just get another connector and do it right from the beginning.
T245 and T210 seem not to be pin compatible.

Spary refers to "EARTH" in his connections in the first post here. Just to be clear is this mains earth?
28
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Quote from: romekplay on
Hi, why L3 is 2.2uH ? Schematic and BOM says 10uH.
Good question. I think I found the part that is specified in the BOM:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Coilcraft/LPS4018-103MRB?qs=QQJxVsr8EGYtnXPp5liaRw%3D%3D

This is the part I think @minkok  is refering to:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Coilcraft/LPS4018-222MRB?qs=MW2gS7wPCVxljhu%2FbSOMRA%3D%3D

DC resistance and max current are vastly different apart from the uH value.
29
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
Thank you very much @minkok  and @vulkan35
That has already been a major help.

Quote from: minkok on
You will need extra parts - case,  power supply, connectors for the handle and power cord, handle stand and may be some extra, I cannot remember right now.

I have already bought a 24V 150VAC toroidal transformer wich was recommended in the Wiki.
I have a 3D printer at hand, so a case is not really a concern for me.

The Wiki recommends a few Connectors.
Im just a bit confused about J5 and J6.
J5 seems to be for some kind of sleep mode when i put my Iron in the Holder?
From the Schematics it looks like J6 is the Senseinput from the Iron itself? I cant find the recommended Parts on Mouser. But if I understand it correct, there should not be any current requirement, so a basic Dupont Connector on the pcb should be enough?

And then J2 and J6 go the the Iron itself? Wich in the Case of the JBC T245 should be this connector:  https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/RPC1-12RB-6P71?qs=3aug5cyrIbe2GgBBTK%2FJGw%3D%3D
30
Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
hey guys,
im about to order the required parts to build my own Unisolder.
The github page from valerionew was already a great help but i am still confused about a few parts.
If you could take a quick look and tell me if the parts i chose will work would be highly appreciated

First the inductors:
L1: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_YJYCOIN-YPRH1207-331M_C504038.html
L2: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_TDK-SLF7045T-331MR25-PF_C136202.html
L3: https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Power-Inductors_SXN-Shun-Xiang-Nuo-Elec-SMNR4020-10UH_C135263.html

Im not sure what Switches (S1,S2,S3) and Buzzer (SPK1) to use. Is there an exact footprint? Do I even need the Buzzer?

The Github page says, that i dont need the Mosfets Q14, Q15, Q16, Q18, Q19, Q21, Q22 (IRLML6401) and Q17, Q20 (IRLML2502) and U9 (ULN2003L) if i use the OLED, is that correct?
Do i have to get any other parts that are not on the original BOM?

Its hard to find the OLED. I searched a bit and found this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Weis-Blau-Gelb-Blau-0-96-I2C-IIC-SPI-Serial-128X64-OLED-LCD-LED-Anzeige/322724384771?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4b23df5003:g:vsMAAOSwTqdZreyg&enc=AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk5v8gVt3hEWLVg%2F253w6XCZHZZG
The discriptions says the following:
"This OLED Part No. is UG-2864HSWEG01, not UG-2864AMBAG01"
So in theory I should be able to desolder the Display and use it right?

There is a fuseholder in the BOM, but no Fuse. What fuse is required?

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