I cant get my IR Toy to transmit successfully to my XBOX 360. I can record the button presses OK, but transmit never works. I've tried a couple different pre-made configs also to no avail.
i'm using LIRC patched for IR Toy on Linux. I'm wondering if there is a different protocol the remote is using or something? Some "gotcha" I'm missing?
Wondering if anyone out there can try to beam some commands to a 360 and let me know?
yo yo! pretty excited cuz i just got this to compile for openwrt (after fucking with it for days). i will write up a step-by-stepper after i doublecheck my work :D
i have much better results transmitting when using WinLIRC instead of the rec and play utilities packaged with the IRToy software. i think irrecord for (Win)LIRC does a better job of recording/decoding IR signals.
I have update my IRToyV2 to latest IRToy.package.v20 (final version) with success, but when i try the famous selftest "IRToySelfTest" i always have the same error. I use of course a white paper else without anything i have error code FA20. Error code with white paper (even after maybe 20 tries):
Quote
Hold the IR Toy very close to something white for the self-test Opening IR Toy on COM20 at 115200bps... Starting IR TOY self-test... Getting self-test result... IR Toy version: FA02 Test no: 1 of 1 IR Toy Self Test Reply: FA02 FA02
I have tested other tools and all seems to work fine.[/quote]
Mine fails the self test every time (IR LED error). I wouldn't really worry about it - the LED is for sure lighting up and I can send commands with a good amount of reliability.
ok i seem to be getting MUCH MUCH MUCH (ie 100%) better performance after using winlirc to make a remote profile and use winlirc to send the codes. i was trying to use the irtoy rec and play tools on a projector at work and it just would not comply. i did the winlirc config and it works flawlessly. just fyi
thanks for making a higher current descriptor - i totally forgot that USB will limit current based on device request...
after it worked to turn on the TV, it failed to turn on my vaporizer at home. (lol i know, why does a vape need an IR remote??? who knows...)
I'm not really sure why it didn't work -- its right on my desk and when I first got the IR Toy (pre-mods), I tested it on the vape and it worked. so ... hrm ...
I flashed with 450mA descriptor and i still couldn't transmit successfully (to the TV). I replaced the 2222a with a new one and it works again. Something must have happened to the transistor while transporting it back home? Or maybe its case of USB ports...I'm not sure, I will test again at home with more devices and report back. The USB port i am using is directly from my laptop - no hubs or anything. I'm not entirely sure its the USB stuff....im leaning towards my hack sucks or something. I could go through the calculations again to make sure i'm not burning up the 2222a, but wheres the danger in that?? lol :)
I was combing thru the forum and came across someone's mention of not enough USB power or something. I tried a different USB port and it works up to 30+ feet away! Sometimes i have to send the code multiple times, but i am assuming thats due to interference from office fluros and whatnot.
OK, i found a TV here at work. I recorded the "power on" signal from the remote. Captured it, played it back. Nothing. CRAP!
The LED is for sure flashing, I compared it to the OEM remote and it blinks just as brightly. What is going on here? Bad IR detector? I always fail the USBtoy self test with
OK - removed my switch mods. Removed the stock resistor, replaced with 3.5ohm resistor. removed BC818 transistor, replaced with to-92 2222a. (thinking maybe i blew up the transistor by driving too much power thru it. 2222a can handle 625 mW).
The LED lights when i stick a camera up to it. I don't have anything at work to test IR functionality so I guess i'll be waiting until i get home to see if my mods worked this time around.
i have v2, running V20 final firmware. v20 final did not seem to help, so I modified the current limiting resistor. Stock it was 7.5 ohms, I used a 3.5 ohm resistor. (I also added some switches to select between stock current and "turbo" power :p )
Sadly now it seems neither stock nor modified work. I'll throw it on a bench scope later but I don't know what could have happened. I notice the PIC gets noticeably warm...is that normal? (I'm guessing "no", but hey...it seems to be getting warm closer to the IR detector side)