No... not very stable. I've tested my 280°C and 320°C presets - it always quickly and continuously fluctuates between ±5-20°C above/below the selected temperature.
I've had uploaded the files to an image hoster. Seems like the thumbnails didn't work for now. Try quoting my posting and you should see the links to the *.png files. Those still work.
You have to look around a bit to find a seller with the best combined item+shipment price for your area (because some sell the item pretty cheap, but have horrible shipping costs).
It's still not the cheapest, but a very well produced all aluminum case. I've only replaced the front with a custom 3mm aluminum plate (instead of the 6mm plate it comes with) since i wanted the usb socket flush with the front, which wasn't possible with the 6mm plate.
@talkos Thanks for the clarification. I think i understand now the whole subject. I didn't know there were such big issues with bugs in the firmware...
I will post here my truncated or, more precisely, a corrected file with all my soldering irons
Which soldering irons do you use / are supported by the firmware? Maybe i'll have to take a look into how to build the firmware from source to compile my own version which includes only my 3 irons (but no others). That's something i am afraid of - cause i'm too old for this shit ...
There was. And i was happy to see some development years after this project started. Too bad it came to a halt. But it was good to see some improvements.
I have the utmost respect for everyone investing their time and money to develop this project any further. I've donated to "Ivanushka" to show my gratitude after he picked up the firmware development and i'm deeply thankful for the work of "minkok", "afedorov", "Doomedahab" and others keeping this thread alive, helping others and improving the hard- and software of sparkys original project. And (last but not least) i'm thankful for your work analysing the original hardware and even do a lot of trial and error to create working unisolder profiles for some of the best soldering irons on the market.
My knowledge is limited, but i understand it's not a simple task to develop a working soldering iron profile for which the cartridge won't be damaged and the iron behaves similar to its behaviour on original hardware. Since your profile for the NT105-A was incorporated into the latest firmware i just wanted to know how to use it properly without damaging the iron or my station because of wrong wiring on my part.
For free? not bad. where can I get one for free? 😁
You have to work for a company that uses JBC equipment and replaces no longer used and not needed tools from time to time... and then you have to be there at the right moment 😁.
Okay... i read a lot of old postings in this thread. And after finding a posting from 2017 i do now understand how the hex number in the iron.c is related to the resID.xlsx and therefore to the resistor values between Vout1-/Vout2- and ID. "JBC NT105-A" is described as 0x1616 - so that means a 2k resistor is needed on both: ID->Vout1- and ID->Vout2-.
Since the thermocoupling for the C105/C115 cartridges seems to be similar to the C210 cartridges i would assume the following connections should be right: • green -> EARTH and SENSEB • blue -> Vout1- • red -> Vout1+ and SENSEA • 2k between ID and Vout1- • 2k between ID and Vout2-
Any objections? Any suggestions? Should it work with my otherwise unmodified Unisolder?
Since i got an JBC NT105A Nano for free and since JBCs Nano tools seem to be supported in new firmwares i wanted to ask if someone could share the wiring for the NT105A? Sorry for this (maybe) ignorant question... but the only information i've found is the 2k resistor needed between (i guess) Vout1- and ID. I would assume the green wire should be connected to EARTH and SENSEB. But where to connect the blue and red wire (heater positive and negative)? And isn't there any resistor needed between Vout2- and ID?
I use the bootloader versions for testing before I share the firmwares, and they work ok. I did experience what you describe once. What remedied it is to load the standalone version, and flashing the bootloader after that. I have been able to update the firmware via the unisolder software without issues after that. This was 4 firmware versions ago, even before we started publishing them.
This seems to do the trick! Thanks a lot.
Kind of strange that this particular order of procedure works. I've updated from the last original bootloader-version to bootloader-version 5.2.0.2 via USB, ending in shortly showing the moving squares on the screen and going to a blank screen after that (rendering my UniSolder station useless).
I've revived the station by reflashing the original bootloader-version via PICkit 3 and then tried the same procedure with the bootloader-version 5.2.0.2... with the same result: a black screen and a useless soldering station. Then i've tried the previous version and the last version (posted by you) without any luck. Out of sheer desperation i did the same with the standalone versions - and they worked. But since i wanted to update the firmware via USB that's no permanent solution...
Now i did as you said (flashed only the bootloader via PICkid and updated to the latest firmware via USB after that). Hopefully that will solve the problem permanently.
Every new firmware version with bootloader doesn't seem to work for me for some reason (my UniSolder doesn't do anything at all after programming them). The standalone versions work fine though. Any ideas what could cause that?
I don't think crowdfunding would work for it, since it's too small of a niche product. You need lots and lots of interested people to make a cheap production line financially feasible. But you don't have that for the Unisolder. Therefore it's cheaper to buy a preexisting enclosure and modify it... or 3d-print one yourself. I would even go so far as to say that this personal touch is kind of part of the appeal for some people.
Damn... of course - sorry... i forgot: first and foremost it's mostly a good idea to solder all ICs and similar multi-pin smd components. Those are the most time consuming soldering parts which sometimes require hot air soldering (which can be a pain in the ass with surrounding components already in place). But after that it's usually a good suggestion to go from the smallest to the biggest smd parts (cause smaller ones are easier to solder in place without the interference of bigger components surrounding them).
Most of the time i solder all the through hole components at last, since parts like connectors and big electrolytic capacitors are sometimes pretty close to smaller smd components - so you may risk accidentally damaging the through hole parts (especially connectors) with your soldering iron while trying to solder those close smd components at last.
But there are no rules per se... since there are exceptions for almost everything...