The voltages were from the back board with the front board detached from J3. The voltages stay the same when I plug the front board into J3 so I think it's an issue with the back board.[/quote]
Hello canteen234, when disconnect J3 and voltages are still missing, try to resolder ( check for a short ) IC U1 and components next to it, measure its Vin and be sure that you use Dc-Dc for a fixed Voltage convertor i.e. LM2675M-3.3 if you use schematics, check if you made a jumper for R3 and good soldering for L1 and L2.
No, I had to disconnect Vout1+ so OLED says heater open. All other connections are still there. I do not now have any other way to do it.
I then check voltage when it is cold, it is 0.0v. Then I temporarily connect Vout1+ so iron heats up, then I disconnect again Vout1+ so iron does not burn. While it is still hot, I measure voltage is 0.005v.
I know if I connect Vout1+ to iron, it will burn and OLED will show about 20 deg C.
I will be away from home again so I will check again PCB and resolder all the components like you recommend when I come home in couple of days. I think I will also order more parts soon so I have spares.
Thank you again and please tell if I am doing testing wrong.[/quote]
Up to C65 all is ok, you can continue by resoldering U11, 15 and 17 and components next to them.
[quote author="ScotY808"]I have disconnected Vout1+ so iron has no power. At C65, I measure 0.0v DC with iron at room temperature (display says heater open).
I then connected Vout1+ for short time (maybe 5 seconds) so iron gets quite hot (but I do not know how hot it is) and measure 0.005v DC. Now it is cooling down but still hot. I can touch iron tip without burning my finger and it is 0.002v. When it is almost room temperature, it is 0.001v. It seems it can sense temperature but cannot control heating?
EDIT- I think some more and it seems from 0.0v at room temperature to 0.005v when iron is hot (probably way more than 200 deg C), does not seem like enough resolution for controller to tell what temperature of iron really is? I would think it would show maybe from 0.0v to 100mv at least?[/quote]
I connected chinese hakko 907 and measured 19mV at start and 42mV around 270 C, but Hakko iron has different sensor thermistor, may be I will need to repeat with JBC handle. New measurement with JBC connected and the results are as yours 1mV cold and 5mV at 300 C. When you mesure the hot state everything was connected properly and oled shows 20 C isn't it?
[quote author="ScotY808"]I have disconnected Vout1+ so iron has no power. At C65, I measure 0.0v DC with iron at room temperature (display says heater open).
I then connected Vout1+ for short time (maybe 5 seconds) so iron gets quite hot (but I do not know how hot it is) and measure 0.005v DC. Now it is cooling down but still hot. I can touch iron tip without burning my finger and it is 0.002v. When it is almost room temperature, it is 0.001v. It seems it can sense temperature but cannot control heating?
EDIT- I think some more and it seems from 0.0v at room temperature to 0.005v when iron is hot (probably way more than 200 deg C), does not seem like enough resolution for controller to tell what temperature of iron really is? I would think it would show maybe from 0.0v to 100mv at least?[/quote]
I connected chinese hakko 907 and measured 19mV at start and 42mV around 270 C. When you mesure the hot state everything was connected properly and oled shows 20 c isn't it?
[quote author="afedorov"] minkok suggests disconnecting the heater and heat up the cartridge externally, say, with another iron, which is easier than messing up with a dummy load, but requires dealing with mV measurements, since controller locks in the 'heater open' screen, though the voltage difference on C65 at room temp and at 200*C should be quite noticeable.[/quote]
Yes it is true, but unfortunately U16 is ruled by the software ( chsel1, 2 and chpol ) and we are not sure incase Vtemp is a relative constant if it is from hardware or software, but if Vtemp is correct and has increasement, wep that part of the board is ok. Please try to resolder all the resistors next to ICs as DinikS advise and R61, R64.Check the connections from input connector to R61, R64. Please read every single word of the posts and be sure that you understand the meaning and the schematics reaction. JBC cartridges are not cheap, you can build another cheap chinese 907 iron to connect ( I used it for alignment before to buy the JBC stuff ), check also connector from the iron side for a short, if connector is from metal. The visual inspection is very important part don't underestimate it.
[quote author="ScotY808"]Thank you, I will try Diniks advice first. So I should measure R56 to ground as it is heated. Do you know what voltage should be?[/quote]
Please check again my post I edited it, and about voltage I expect to be in mV range. and compare difference at room temp. ( first time to switch it on ) and that heated up. You should see how the Vtemp going up.
I am not good with electronics so this is hard for me to understand. I have visual checked all components and I do not see anything wrong. Can you tell me what components to check the voltage and ground?
I disconnect Vout1+ which is blue wire to JBC245 and when I connect iron, it says heater open so I cannot check room temperature that way. If I have blue wire (and all wires connected), when I plug in iron, it shows 20 deg C even while the iron heats up very quickly.
Thank you for your help![/quote]
First try DinikS advice.controller use chsel1 and 2 to control ins, in that case is better to connect in serial to Vout1+ , 24V stop light from track ( around 21W ) or 2x 12v from car in serial and try the idea. measure voltage difference b/n GND and R56 (solder extension soft wire to R56- not to keep it by hand ) at room temp. and when it is heated
I have been away for some time. I was having problems with JBC245 iron getting very hot but OLED does not show temperature increase. Sparkybg thinks it is problem with SENSEB and he was to change firmware to try to detect problem. But, I know he is so busy with work and does not have free time. So, would anyone know what I might try to change components to help fix the problem? I have some spare parts but not everything. If I can change suspect components, maybe problem will be fixed.
Thank you![/quote]
Hello ScotY808, lets try to diagnose the problem, first there is no simple decision for what is wrong, we have to find solution to find it. you have to do visual inspection on Resistors and ICs in Sence A and B channels for their soldering and colours, up to their end - controller, disconnect the handle and switch on the station and measure all supply V on the legs of ICs, do not forget to check also their GND connections if every thing is ok , try to desolder Vout1+ from connector and insulate both desoldered ends. Now when you switch on the station with connected iron, it should not heat and should be detected properly with connected thermocouple - if everything is ok you are ready to measure the two sence channels on room temp. and if you decide to heat the tip up. Amplified Vtemp you can measure at R56 - if you can measure V difference between room Temp and 150 C or more heated tip, it means that until here all is good and can continue.
[quote author="GuruMeditation"]Hi All, I'm having trouble with the calibration step.
R: and ADC: are changing rapidly. Remove the resistor and R: and ADC: stabilise, ADC: @ 1023 and R: @ 2087
I think this means that Vout1- might have a fault and I will try to follow the schematic to find the cause, but if anyone has a better insight as to where to look I'd appreciate it.
In probing around I do see that my 12V line does seem high at just over 14.... Don't yet know if that means anything.
Thanks in advance :-)[/quote]
Hello GuruMeditation, I did not meet problems like yours, but what I think is: 12V supply have to be by sparkybg over 12V and by schematics less than 15V roughly, sparkybg advise to be used 10 ohm R for the calibration and also you can read all posts and mark all which is helpful for you or related to your problem.
[quote author="DinikS"] I've already assembled two stations one is already in housing and it will be used with Sparkybg's optical sensor. I redraw the PCB for my soldering gun holder. The another one will be put into the original housing from burned JBC station and your experience with cd 4001 will be very helpful.[/quote]
Hello DinikS, in my opinion sparkybg's optical sensor is appropriate for stands where is not convenient contact sensing, depending of the shape of handle or the stand shape or any other reason. All JBC solder station are using contact sensing, they are designed for that and also no other brand can offer 5x longer life of the tip and the convenience of quick tip exchange based on the contact sensing - all that insist Uni solder to support contact sensing to be able to use the advantages of JBC soldering. I think you took the right decision.
[quote author="DinikS"]Here it is updated files, Gerber and kicad projects. The old ones on previous page were deleted.[/quote]
Thank you DinikS, If you follow the direction for checking and testing, you will get it working from first time you connect it, just decrease the sleep time to 1s from the menu, set holder temp. and sleep temp. to 174 C if your station is properly calibrated and you will have really nice time with Unisolder. it is real pleasure to use it. ps. do not forget to clean the board well from the soldering paste, to keep high input resistance of IC 4001.
[quote author="DinikS"] Thank you for your remarks. If I understood you right and redraw the schematics and PCB correctly, It came out like this. I added one more pin to make both channels separate.[/quote]
Thank you DinikS, this time is what have to be, also is good idea to have mounting holes, one or two :) if software allow, you can move a little both set of resistors to free space for that, 3mm is enough for a hole(s)
[quote author="DinikS"]PCB have been ordered when I get them I will update here how it works. Minkok thanks again for sharing it.[/quote]
Hello DinikS, I can see the mosfets are both at a different position, they are rotated left 90 deg - wrong, on the pcb picture. You need to rotate them both right 90 deg. to be able both gate R to be connected to corresponding gates. The pads are correct. Please, if R1 is sleep input and drain of Q1 is sleep output, leave it connected to SLEEP terminal and cut the connection between drain of Q2 and drain of Q1 , you cannot connect them together - different channels input, different channels output. Main point is, Sleep channel to serve iron holder support detection and Hibernation channel to serve tip holder, extractor detection. You need to leave Q2 output not connected, as I mentioned before, channel 2 is not supported by current firmware. Sorry for the little delay.
Hello DinikS, very quick job, nice. I want to mention, that even you build the second ch., do not connect its output, lets call it hibernation. Unisolder5.2 is not ready for that. Best regards, minkok
[quote author="DinikS"]Thank you very much for your comments. I made a schematics and if I understood everything correctly the schematics came out like this. I hope it's right[/quote]
The schematics is correct and looks mach better than mine. The only thing I want to clear is connector J1 on your schematic - it does not correspond exactly to J5, pins from right to left are 1,2- 3.3V, 3,4-GND, 5,6-sleep, if you want to use 3 pins only 1,3,5 are down settled and convenient to solder Please, when you finish soldering, be assured, that there is no short between inputs and GND, my advice is to connect it to laboratory power supply first, to check it by connecting inputs to GND shortly and look for 3.3V on the gate to appear, the time input is shorted.
