[quote author="Bug82"]The voltage drop across ZD1 and ZD2 is indeed 4.41V and not 3V. The same on both pcbs.[/quote] That's weird as marking is the same. At least it's good that those dodgy zeners ended up on the back board and not on the front.
[quote author="Bug82"]Measured in DC mode the Voltage at Pin 14 is between 1.1 and 4V. Seems to be to high.[/quote] Indeed, minimum pin 14 voltage should be less than 0.9v. [quote author="Bug82"]The voltage drop across C12 is 8.3V, which seems to be to high. [/quote] Yes, something wrong with this "feedback" circuit. As the same zener on the front board seems to have the correct Vz, only Q5 is remaining.
[quote author="Bug82"]I bought the following one. 8 MHz should be correct or? https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/d ... -ND/284205[/quote] Yes, it's correct. Just thought that the reason of such misbehavior on both of your sets should be something that is common, like a wrong part. I've evaluated an reversed flat cable connection. Only connection that may be dangerous to the MC is HSEL tied to ground, but it's on another IO block and even if this IO failed, it should not influence VINT operation.
I'm wandering, may a wrong crystal frequency cause the behavior that Bug82 have? On normal conditions it seems that 40Hz is the minimal frequency supported before timer would rollover, producing an interrupt which forces the DC mode. 16MHz crystal doubles this frequency. Though, it would be 160MHz system clock which is way to much for this micro. UPD: Actually, I forgot that it's a double mains frequency at the Vint. :)
[quote author="ScotY808"] Just for confirmation, I should be able to see 3.3v on both sides of R28...is this correct? Is this okay place for measuring? [/quote] When the bus is in idle state you should see 3.3V on both lines (right sides of R27 and R28). But when the bus is busy you get pretty much half a voltage. It seems when communication with the device failed, firmware retries continuously, and that explains why you have 1.6v. I've measured resistances on my board and it's 1.8kOhm between line and VDD and 3.6kOhm between lines, as expected.
[quote author="Bug82"]I noticed that the voltage behind Q16 is not stable. Sometimes it is 3.25V, sometimes 0, sometimes in between[/quote] Check for shorts (to GND, VDD or adjacent pins) on output pins of the MC (refer to the schematics), when MC starts operating it may trigger VDD drop and restart. UPD: As you have some activity on pin 48, firmware runs to the OLED initialization, and since OLED doesn't show anything, the problem with OLED pins, I suppose. check OLED pins 49, 50, 51, 52, 54 for shorts to VDD, GND and adjacent pins.
[quote author="ScotY808"]it must have been a component with many connections[/quote] Not necessarily true, it is a power bus and it runs everywhere. It was mentioned before, your capacitors voltage list is more important in such troubleshooting. But some capacitors are in signal paths or in secondary supplies, do not take those into account. [quote author="ScotY808"]Question...is there a proper way to clean flux residue from under U5?[/quote] Flux usually do not make dead shorts, there must be another reason. Check (DMM in diode test mode) voltage drop between pin 57 and 41 of the chip: in forward direction DMM should show overload, and in reverse direction it should be one or two diode drops (0.5~1.2V)
dumitruv, [quote author="ScotY808"]I have connector plugged into the wrong housing for the picture so I could show orientation easier. [/quote] The problem is around or under the controller, maybe touching up the pins will help, otherwise he could desolder the chip and try without it.
[quote author="Blackfinger"]Hi, Dos anyone what PCB drawing program there can be used for reading the gerber file to UniSolder 5.2 ? Thanks ![/quote] I'm using ZofzPCB, it's free (at least for now). It have an excellent 3D view with the ability of measurements in various modes and many other goodness. [quote author="DinikS"] I redrew the PCB tried to take into account remarks. Pls see attached models [/quote] Now it's better ) [quote author="ScotY808"]is it better to get 12v parallel/24v series OR 24v series/48v parallel[/quote] If you have to choose between those ones, 24V series connection is a better choice, because for a parallel connection windings have to be exactly the same, at best wounded by double wire, otherwise there be some loses due to windings non symmetry. And bear in mind that winding connections (start/end) are matter. For series connection you have to connect end of one winding with the start of another, forming middle-point which should be isolated. Other two wires forms an output voltage. If you don't know where the starts/ends of the windings, first of all determine wires of each winding - it should have near zero impedance. Then connect any two wires from different secondary windings and measure voltage on other two wires, if you get near 0v - just change wires of one winding. For parallel connections it's basically opposite - start of two windings should be tied together, so as ends. After connecting two wires of different secondary windings, forming one output terminal, you should get 0v on other two wires, if so, tie this wires together and you'll get a second terminal. If not - again, change the wires of a single winding.
2 DinikS Place a bypass cap as close as possible to the IR receiver. Also, I recommend to implement additional RC filter on the power line, something like 10R and 4.7uF would be enough. IR receivers very susceptible to a power line noise.
[quote author="ScotY808"]Hello puzzle, I am not sure how the 10 pin connector is wired together and also how the OLED board connects to the main board. [/quote] Shrouded 10-pin receptacle and corresponding plug have a triangular mark for pin 1 on it. Flat cable usually have a red wire at one side (or all wires have a different color). On a PCB there is rectangular pad at connector's pin 1. Put it all together and you'll be fine. OLED can be mounted using standard single row male 2.54mm headers. Flat flex cable of the screen should point to the top of the front board. Solder headers to the OLED board as flat as possible (pins should not protrude over PCB top face)
[quote author="DinikS"]Hi sparkybg, I have a question regarding IR receiver used on sensor. Is it possible to use TSOP4838 instead of RPM7140?[/quote] Not all TSOPs really supports 3.3V supply, got TSOP4836 and it doesn't work, had to replace it by TSOP34840 which works well.