[quote author="NECHTO"]Hi all. I have a question about resistor No. 3. it is used on the Board "BACK" - what is the resistance? specified in BOM - 0 Solder jumper = Is that right?
I want to note that in the forum posted the "program" script helps to find the elements on the Board. unisolder_chips - they pointed out that R3 = 3k[/quote] Hi NECHTO, you should follow the BOM. R3-solder jumper, R4-1k5. Before connecting the front board check that back board gives correct voltage on J3. It must be 3V3 and -0,6V.
Thanks Minkok. Yes I've already ordered transistor but it's out of stock in my supplier office so I have to wait 2-3 weeks. I'm really looking forward to the PCB to check your touching sensor. Your idea is really great solution for my enclosure.
Hi guys again, I want to warn you DO NOT change JBC cartridges in hot, switch off the station before. I had a magic smoke from Q2 when I changed cartrige one to another on T245 handle. Now the station works only with T210 JBC handle. If I connect T245 the Q2 heats very much I think I should exchange it.
[quote author="minkok"]Massive stand can not move when use it,, good job DinikS[/quote] Thanks Minkok. Yep, it's masive but it looks good. My previous company I worked for, throw it away but I took it and gave the second life )))). I guess the holder was from weller or ersa station.
Hi guys, some days ago I've got the optical sensor PCB from manufacturer. Earlier the PCB was redraw for my Holder. After receiving it I soldered and put it on my holder. As I wrote above one station will be used with optical sensor the second one will be used with touch sensor from Minkok (still waiting PCBs from maufacturer). Here is is pictures how it looks like and video how it works. http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YFYP3QDVBY UPD: Here it is video of finished stand http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89GHk5r2w6g Sorry for pictures and video quality they were shot by phone.
I am trying to finde out how to wire the sleep, tip-change, Hibernation funktion DinikS have described earlier in this thread.
I have made a drawing with a JBC C245, and I have try to show how I understand the solition for the sleep funktion, and how it is connected to a tip-holder.
My challenge is to understand how the Thip-change / Hibernation funktion are connected to the system.
I hope some one can help me finish/correct the drawing I atatch this post.
Thanks ![/quote] Hi, hibernation doesn't work right now it needs I think to make hardware and software changes in project. So you can use only one channel of cd4001 for holder. For holder connection your picture is right.
I measured the -0.6V and it ended up being 0.37V and the 3.3V ended up being 0.374V.[/quote] If I understood you correctly on j6 front board the voltages dropped dramatically? If it is I guess you should make visual inspection of front board carefully. It has short circuit or bad contact somewhere. Also a good idea to check cables
[quote author="canteen234"] I may be reading J3 incorrectly, but it does not seem to be reading 3.3V nor -0.6V. Just to be sure, which components and J3 should I probe?[/quote] There were the picture earlier in this thread where to measure voltage, Oh I found on my computer, here it is
[quote author="canteen234"]I tried loading frontUS_Firmware.XdistPIC32_StandaloneproductionUS_Firmware.X.production.hex and it only programs when the Pickit3 supplies 3.3v and J9 cannot be connected to J3. When I plug in J9, the status LED on the Pickit3 changes from green to red. The buzzer is quietly buzzing every 2 seconds but turns off when I plug in J9. The OLED is off, but I once saw it say "no power" or something similar to that when I was plugging and unplugging J9 and J3. I have not been able to recreate this.
Anyone have an idea on what's wrong?[/quote] Hi, the red LED light indicates error, I guess you should try to connect pickit to another USB port or try to change pickit cable. By the way your backboard gives correct voltage on J3? it must be 3V3 and -0,6V
I have visually checked and tried to resolder U13, U16, and U18 but not successful. I think now I should order these replacement parts and try again. Besides those 3 components, is it possible anything else should be replaced? The parts are cheap, but shipping takes forever, so I don't mind ordering extra things if maybe I will need to change them. Thank you for your help![/quote] Hi ScotY808, you should resolder also components around ICs. When I had the problem with my controller I resolder almost all components because I didn't find the exact bad soldered place.
Regarding your question for components replacement for sensor. Please see below message [quote author="SZ64"]
• Instead of the RPM7140 (Carrier freq. 40.0kHz) (ROHM) can use TSOP4840 (Carrier freq. 40.0kHz) (VISHAY) • Instead of the KM4457F3C (Kingbright) can use CQX48, TSKS5400S (VISHAY) or IRL80A (OSRAM)
All of these above replacement parts I tested and everything works fine ;)[/quote]
I have been away for some time. I was having problems with JBC245 iron getting very hot but OLED does not show temperature increase. Sparkybg thinks it is problem with SENSEB and he was to change firmware to try to detect problem. But, I know he is so busy with work and does not have free time. So, would anyone know what I might try to change components to help fix the problem? I have some spare parts but not everything. If I can change suspect components, maybe problem will be fixed.
Thank you![/quote] Hi ScotY808, I agree with Minkok, you should make visual inspection first, clean the board with alcohol and look through it carefully. I had almost the same problem, the display showed 30C but the iron was red in short period. Firstly I thought that it was the problem in loading firmware but it wasn't. The problem was in bad soldering of some components I didn't find the exact place. I just resolder U13, U16, U18 and components around in front board and it's work as it should be.
[quote author="minkok"] Thank you DinikS, If you follow the direction for checking and testing, you will get it working from first time you connect it, just decrease the sleep time to 1s from the menu, set holder temp. and sleep temp. to 174 C if your station is properly calibrated and you will have really nice time with Unisolder. it is real pleasure to use it. ps. do not forget to clean the board well from the soldering paste, to keep high input resistance of IC 4001.[/quote] Thank you Minkok for sharing the schematics and your comments. I've not got the PCBs yet but waiting for them very much to test. I've already assembled two stations one is already in housing and it will be used with Sparkybg's optical sensor. I redraw the PCB for my soldering gun holder. The another one will be put into the original housing from burned JBC station and your experience with cd 4001 will be very helpful.
[quote author="minkok"] Thank you DinikS, this time is what have to be, also is good idea to have mounting holes, one or two :) if software allow, you can move a little both set of resistors to free space for that, 3mm is enough for a hole(s)[/quote] Thank you for your feedback. Ups, I forget about mounting holes :-) I will do that and update the gerber and kicad project here as I get home.
[quote author="minkok"] Hello DinikS, I can see the mosfets are both at a different position, they are rotated left 90 deg - wrong, on the pcb picture. [/quote] Hello Minkok, yes I know about that. Kicad has some bug in 3D viewing. I don't know how to fix it. (( If somebody knows I will appreciate their help.
[quote author="minkok"] Please, if R1 is sleep input and drain of Q1 is sleep output, leave it connected to SLEEP terminal and cut the connection between drain of Q2 and drain of Q1 , you cannot connect them together - different channels input, different channels output. Main point is, Sleep channel to serve iron holder support detection and Hibernation channel to serve tip holder, extractor detection. You need to leave Q2 output not connected, as I mentioned before, channel 2 is not supported by current firmware. Sorry for the little delay.[/quote] Thank you for your remarks. If I understood you right and redraw the schematics and PCB correctly, It came out like this. I added one more pin to make both channels separate.
