[quote author="minkok"][quote author="DinikS"]Hi guys, Finally I've got the touching sensor PCBs on Friday and already tried it but it was some difficulties. It worked great on table but when I connected its inputs to stand plate the UniSolder's behaviour was unstable. Actually it works good when the soldering iron was put on stand, the temperature decreased as it should but when the soldering iron has been taking out from the stand, the temperature was growing slowly and not reached the set temperature. The touching sensor is so sensitive! The touching sensor even reacted to the touch by hand to the stand plate. I found out that transistor is not completely closing up when it connected to the massive aluminium plate on the stand. I connected it through diode and now it works great. I do not know may be there is another solution? [/quote]
Hello again DinikS, You've got something strange. My sensing board is made from the parts as the schematics I publish. And sensing inputs cannot react on hand touch - you need to check 10 MOhm R connection, it keeps input tight to High to prevent that. When measure the inputs by multimeter, it has to show b/n 1.7V-2.2V. Where you connected the diode please? - it is very important.[/quote]
Hi Minkok, I found out why I had problem with touching sensor. The problem is PSU. When I tested it I used switching power supply and Unisolder behavier was as I described above. I connected transformer as power supply and removed a diode from the scheme and after that the touching sensor works like a charm. The inputs doesn't react on hand touch, the scheme works as it should do. After all that has been said above, I can safely say a switching power supply is not good solution to power Unisolder especially if somebody wants to use touching sensor.
[quote author="NECHTO"]And once again a stupid question! With what to connect the contact "earth" ...?
It seems that everyone has scored on this - and did not connect to anything ... It's just very strange that two weeks there is no answer.
I think that this is a "grounding" and it is necessary to connect directly to the 220V socket with contact No. 3 "grounding".
But my doubts are caused by the fact that in the description of connecting different soldering irons there is = 1) 1. HAKKO T12: - Outer shell, and heater negative (middle) terminal connected to Vout1- and ERTX 2) JBC C210: - Outer shell (green wire) connected to EARTH and SENSEB[/quote]
I connected it to the body of enclosure together with grounding of power socket. I'm not sure is it right or not but JBC station has the same connection.
Weidinger has high post charges outside EU, but you can have it picked up by the German post/DHL, think I paid around EUR18 to Bulgaria, most places in EU around 10 EUR or so. https://www.efiliale.de/dhl-online-frankierung
Just send me a message if you need to know details how to have the German post pick it up and get the prepaid label online.[/quote]
Thank you cbi7333! I'm very appreciate your support. I've not decided yet to buy or not but if it's possible for you to write details here may be it will be interesting for others.
[quote author="Toporkoff"] All of my cartriges (c245 & C210) original JBC. Aliexpress seller is official certified JBC dealer. [/quote] Hi Toporkoff, could you please give a link to the JBC seller on Aliexpress? I also think to buy Microtweezers. Thanks in advance
Hi guys, I've got spare mosfets finally the station works fine, Q2 doesn't become hot even using massive C245 tips. I'm happy
[quote author="DinikS"]Hi guys, What do you think is it possible to use transformer 18V 6A?[/quote] UniSolder perfectly works with this transformer. But in idle the voltage is 20 Volts not 18V. The very strange transformer )))
[quote author="NECHTO"][quote author="DinikS"][quote author="NECHTO"]Hi all. I have a question about resistor No. 3. it is used on the Board "BACK" - what is the resistance? specified in BOM - 0 Solder jumper = Is that right?
I want to note that in the forum posted the "program" script helps to find the elements on the Board. unisolder_chips - they pointed out that R3 = 3k[/quote] Hi NECHTO, you should follow the BOM. R3-solder jumper, R4-1k5. Before connecting the front board check that back board gives correct voltage on J3. It must be 3V3 and -0,6V.[/quote]
U1 LM2675, R3 and R4
Either the LM2675M-3.3 and the LM2675M-ADJ version can be used. If LM2675M-3.3 is used, R3 has to be 0 (shorted) and R4 has to be 1.5k. If LM2675M-ADJ is used, R3 has to be 3k and R4 has to be 1.8k. LM2674 can be used too.[/quote] Yes it depends on which version of LM will be used
[quote author="minkok"][quote author="afedorov"] It's strange, with an appropriate drive and a 3.3Ω load, average steady state dissipation is around 2.3W (24Vrms/3.3Ω)^2*0.043Ω Rdson.max, more so, this is at 100% duty, which is not reached even when heating up), and it's not a big deal for a DPAK sitting (through ten big vias) on an almost 290mm2 trace closely surrounded by huge copper polygon. Maybe there is driving circuit problem providing not enough Vgs, also insufficient tab soldering can cause die overheat.[/quote]
Thank you afedorov for reminding, of course you are right, after replacement, Q2 still heats up a lot at 100% duty,do you think,may be I got some fake mosfets. To measure Vgs direct on mosfet is a damn risky. I will check Q3 and af course my 'favorite' zenners, ZD6. It is good, when the board is close to you, isn't it?[/quote] I'm also very interested in this issue. I've not got the spare mosfets yet but may be I also need to check for other burned components on back board? As I wrote before my station now works only with T210 handle with easy soldering job. If I solder massive polygons it heats so much. If I connect T245 handle it heats very much from start. Thanks all you guys for support!
[quote author="minkok"] I am sorry for the mistake I made about the diode connection, but my mind is somewhere else , if diode is a schottky with voltage drop less than 0.5V and is connected in serial to IC input, there is no any problem, but is much better with out it, if the schematics is ok.[/quote] Thank you for comments. Yes the diode is connected in serial but as I remember I took the fist one and it was a rectified diode 1N4007 I have no any other.(
[quote author="minkok"] You have to remove the diode, it dramatically decrease the input resistant of the schematics, if you remove the diode, input resistant is around some M ohms and does not influence over shunt - for measuring mosfet current. Guess if it is connected. Please, resolder 10Mohm R and if you cannot reach 2.2V on inputs, add in parallel another one 10Mohm - all together are 5 Mohm. And please, give the result. Thank you.[/quote] Thank you very much for help and support. I will do that when I get home. Now I'm in a business trip.
Hello again DinikS, You'v got something strange. My sensing board is made from the parts as the schematics I publish. And sensing inputs cannot react on hand touch - you need to check 10 MOhm R connection, it keeps input tight to High to prevent that. When measure the inputs by multimeter, it has to show b/n 1.7V-2.2V. Where you connected the diode please? - it is very important.[/quote] Hi Minkok, At the first when I had problem I've checked resistors and they are 10 Mohm but not measure inputs. The diod was connected Anode to the inputs of cd4001 Cathode to the metal plate of soldering holder.
Hi guys, Finally I've got the touching sensor PCBs on Friday and already tried it but it was some difficulties. It worked great on table but when I connected its inputs to stand plate the UniSolder's behaviour was unstable. Actually it works good when the soldering iron was put on stand, the temperature decreased as it should but when the soldering iron has been taking out from the stand, the temperature was growing slowly and not reached the set temperature. The touching sensor is so sensitive! The touching sensor even reacted to the touch by hand to the stand plate. I found out that transistor is not completely closing up when it connected to the massive aluminium plate on the stand. I connected it through diode and now it works great. I do not know may be there is another solution? Here it is pictures and video. Sorry again for pictures and video quality http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gn3PpRYoZTU
Expensive try isn't it?[/quote] Yes, it is about 20 USD but I think the transformer is better than switching power supply I used while tuning and testing unisolder. Actually I have a problem with my original JBC enclosure. It's impossible to insert the recommended transformer the enclosure has limited space. Now I think how to solve that. The solution to use the original JBC transformer in it but now I use it in my first station so I need to find a replacement first.
Hello DinikS, sparkybg wrote ' The intention was to build the most universal soldering controller I can think of. It can drive any low voltage (upto 24V) iron with thermocouple or resistive sensor, in series with the heater, or separate.
Here is a short list of features: - power: 9-28V, AC or DC ' but it will decrease the performance of JBC cartridges, less power, longer time for heating, poor recovery reaction - not applicable for big cartridges you have. But is not so bad for JBC 245 especially 18V/ 3.7 ohm= 5.29A around 103.7W , not quite bad really, as we know sparkybg limited mosfet current to 6A.[/quote] Hi Minkok, thanks for comments. I'll get this transformer and try
Hi guys, What do you think is it possible to use transformer 18V 6A? I'm not sure about that because sometimes I use tips like attached below. By the way as I previously wrote Q2 was burned down while changing one massive tip (left on the picture) to another massive one (in the center)
