What is your plan for troubleshooting/debugging that board? Can it be that it does not read the 5.6k resistor? How is the functioning board acting when the 5.6k resistor is not connected?[/quote]
In my case it was the U3 (74HC02D) defect. I have replaced the U3 and all is now fine ;)
[quote author="sparkybg"]- updated the firmware with correct instrument name display - added gerber files for combined PCB (front+back+OLED). It may be cheaper to fabricate this way.[/quote]
thx sparkybg !
p.s.: I am still waiting for Hakko 907 iron-connection and if possible please to Zhongdi desoldering gun ZD-552 ;-))
You have indeed perish in labor ;-) Just say that you are well. ...
I managed to finally all up and running as it should. One back-pcb of the three sets is defective / not working properly, the remaining (three front and two back) is all right.
What I've noticed that when I FW recompile, programming a PIC with these new FW get different display text (look at the picture), why?
[quote author="sparkybg"]Check the resistor connections and values. Something is wrong there. The controller knows what is plugged in using these resistors. [/quote] Hi sparkybg,
I checked resistors and values are: 1K0 -> my: 0.999 KOhm 5K6 -> my: 5.606 KOhm
So, all in the green area ;)
[quote author="sparkybg"] More specifically, you have a problem with the 5.6k resistor, or you have a short or open circuit somewhere.[/quote]
before I take apart the PCB board, I would have liked to tried HAKKO 907 iron-connection, but I offer you to these iron-connection diagram.
p.s.: I have the two set completes and both show me the same :(
1. HAKKO T12: - Outer shell, and heater negative (middle) terminal connected together to Vout1- and GND - heater positive (bottom terminal) connected to Vout1+ and SENSEA - 1k resistor between ID and Vout1- - 5.6k resistor between ID and Vout2-
2. JBC C245: - Outer shell (green wire) connected to GND and SENSEB - Heater positive(red wire) connected to Vout1- and SENSEA - Heater negative(blue wire) connected to Vout1+ - 150ohm between ID and Vout1+ - 5.6k between ID and Vout2+
3. JBC C210: - Outer shell (green wire) connected to GND and SENSEB - Heater negative (middle terminal, blue wire) connected to Vout1- - Heater positive (smaller terminal, red wire) connected to Vout1+ and SENSEA - 3.0k between ID and Vout1- - 5.6k between ID and Vout2-
4. JBC Microtweezers: - Outer shell of both tips (green wire) connected to GND - Heater 1 negative (blue wire) connected to Vout1- - Heater 1 positive (red wire) connected to Vout1+ and SENSEA - Heater 2 negative (brown wire) connected to Vout2- - Heater 2 positive (yellow wire) connected to Vout2+ and SENSEB - 1.0k between ID and Vout1-[/quote]
Hi sparkybg, is the correct connections for Iron HAKKO T-12? When these connections, the display shows that I have a "JBC MicroTweezers" connected, which is not true.
How do you connect a desoldering gun? Do you use some vacuum device? Or are you talking about other kind of device?
Thanks in advance!
very easily ;) I have the following 2 vacuum pumps: 1) THOMAS Diaphragm Pump 1420VP/12VDC (serie 1420 JADE): -0.78 Bar -> very, very quiet pump 2) "noname" (at eBay € 28): -0.80 Bar -> louder than THOMAS!
Is it true that the voltage VCC is 3.3V? According to Formula Vout = 1.21 * (1 + R2 / R1) voltage is correct 5.00V. I think it's a mistake at R4, instead 1K5 should be 2K7 and then the voltage is exactly 3.316V.
add:
I completed the PCB and now I need iron connection diagrams (Hakko T-12, Hakko 907 Heating element A1321 and Zhongdi desoldering gun ZD-552).
I have the following IC's: MAX6030AEUR-T - IC VREF SERIES 3.0V 500µA ±0,2% 20ppm/°C SOT23-3 MAX6035AAUR30 - IC VREF SERIES 3.0V 10mA ±0,2% 30ppm/°C SOT23-3 MAX6063AEUR-T - IC VREF SERIES 3.0V 5mA ±0,2% 20ppm/°C SOT23-3 ... Can I use one of those as a substitute for REF3030 ?
LM4051AEM3-1.2+; as a substitute for LM4041CIM3-1.2+T ?
SUD50P08-25L-E3 or SQD50P08-25L-GE3; as a substitute for SUD50P10 ?
If the pad layout and the voltages are the same, you can use another controller, but you will also have to modify the firmware to support it. The commands and the initialization of every OLED controller chip is different. So if you ask me - get a SSD1306 OLED.[/quote]
For all OLEDs (0.96 ", 1.3") applies, the offset is derived on size, not on the wiring: SSD1306 -> 0.96"-> H-Offset = 0 SH1106 -> 1.3" -> H-Offset = 2
By the way if you have for sell the Unpopulated PCBs, I buy for sure ... Says something , if I have to give the money win to someone, I'd rather give it to you. [/quote][/quote][/quote]
