[quote author="DinikS"]Hi sparkybg, I have a question regarding IR receiver used on sensor. Is it possible to use TSOP4838 instead of RPM7140?[/quote]
Hi DinikS,
• Instead of the RPM7140 (Carrier freq. 40.0kHz) (ROHM) can use TSOP4840 (Carrier freq. 40.0kHz) (VISHAY) • Instead of the KM4457F3C (Kingbright) can use CQX48, TSKS5400S (VISHAY) or IRL80A (OSRAM)
All of these above replacement parts I tested and everything works fine ;)
[quote author="puzzle"][quote author="ScotY808"]I have a question about U19 which is the FAN5331. The component I ordered has 5 pins but there are 6 pins on the PCB of the OLED. Is this the correct part?[/quote]
Yes, mine was 5 pin too.[/quote]
... and always remember that certain solder pads are for a different function ;-)
You have overlooked that there are soldermask-free islands around some pins on the OLED connectors on the back of the front PCB. ;)[/quote]
Hi sparkybg,
Yes, that is it ... however, I must first come on the that this "island" has double function ;-)
In any case, with "without solder-bridging" the 0.96inch display has fully worked. Problem is first dived with installation of a new 1.3inch display. The display could not reach the full contrast (it was completely in the lowest contrast area with slight flicker) and voltage at the OLEDVCC has varied between 5.52V and 9.30V depending on how much screen was filled. So, no wonder the new 1.3 "OLED requires between 11.5V and 12.5V at the Vcc pin. I have tried with the contrast 0x81,0xFF, -0xAF, -0x3F and DCOM 0xDB, 0x20, -0x00, -0x30 but no improvement. I just wanted to replace the FAN5331 against LM2731 / LM2733 and with measurements I noticed something with the GND is not in order. That's why you asked how that is connected.
After your assistance I solved the "island" with the pin2 and now I have a 1.3inch display fully functional together with all the right voltage.
How is the "GND" made between FRONT and OLED? The U9 does not exist, I recognize that there is no common GND between FRONT and OLED or I have overlooked what?
[quote author="valerionew"] LM4120 instead of REF3030 (this is an hard match as before. the LM4120 is a STO23-5, the REF3030 a SOT23-3. the two extra pins can be left disconnected and the shared pins match. Nevertheless, the LM4120 has a maximum current of 5mA instead of 25mA and a dropout voltage of 100mV instead of 1mV. The precision is the same. Is it suitable?) [/quote]
[quote author="sparkybg"] There are two parts, connected to this reference voltage - the MCU's ADC reference, and the offset DAC. I don't know how much current they consume - you will have to find out yourself. 3.0V 0.1% is the most important rating but I am a bit skeptical about the proposed substitute. [/quote][/quote][/quote]
I have tested (curiosity) and result is: 262.26 μA.
As a replacement for REF3030 (only in this case) you can take the following ICs: MAX6010AEUR, MAX6063AEUR, ISL21010CFH330Z
I've just tried them - uploaded the bootloader to my controller with PICKit3, and the uploaded the firmware with PC software - everything works.[/quote]
I have also tested (recompiled hex) and everything works perfectly ;-)
sorry if I brought in confusion. I wanted to say the SPEAKER/BUZZER to me does not work, so I asked if it is turned off via software. I do not know whether it was a mistake for me or not. And finally I wanted to say: one big, big compliment for this your very successful project.
you're not a "SPEAKER" via software to "OFF" set? I ask because in general I have not heard any sound / beep ... nothing. I'm interested in what all the "SPEAKER" reports / signals? ... Am excited and want a credit for the success of the project pronounce!!![/i]
information for all users who want SLEEP-sensor board alone to do but have difficulties with the procurement of IR receivers RPM7140 and IR Transmitter KM4457F3C:
• Instead of the RPM7140 (ROHM) can use TSOP4840 (VISHAY) • Instead of the KM4457F3C (Kingbright) can use CQX48, TSKS5400S (VISHAY) or IRL80A (OSRAM)
All of these above replacement parts I tested and everything works fine ;)
That is the better option. These things are cheap. BTW is it possible to test it in circuit? IE try to put voltages on imput and look at output without possibility of harm? (I think it should be, right?)[/quote]
of course I first tested the IC (pin-to-pin) and the test result is: pin 7 (GND) with pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 13 was a short-circuit (should just pin 3,6 and 7 to be short-circuited), and this was the reason why I replaced the chip.
