Hi; you are using the wrong bootloader. "avrdude: ERROR: address 0x1f010 out of range at line 2 of ATmegaBOOT_168_atmega1280.hex" This hex file is for an ATMega1280, not ATMega168.
There is a 168 file: arduino/hardware/arduino/avr/bootloaders/optiboot/optiboot_atmega168.hex
That should work, note my path is for linux and Arduino 1.5.7.
I am just starting with cnc, building my own. There is a kit called Shapeoko that I am considering. John Lauer has written an amzing tool called chillipeppr. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=chilipeppr It runs on tinyg. John is mainly into pcb milling.
Hi ataraxis; Ian would know - he designed it. Contact Sparkfun and see if they will replace it. I suspect that if you try to repair it they will not take it back.
Well I decided to test mine. (also BPv3a), but from Seeed Studios. I run linux so: screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200 To start a terminal for it. With NO jumpers: HiZ>~ Disconnect any devices Connect (Vpu to +5V) and (ADC to +3.3V) Space to continue Ctrl AUX OK MODE LED OK PULLUP H OK PULLUP L OK VREG OK ADC and supply 5V(5.02) OK VPU(0.00) FAIL 3.3V(3.33) OK ADC(0.00) FAIL Bus high MOSI OK CLK OK MISO OK CS OK Bus Hi-Z 0 MOSI OK CLK OK MISO OK CS OK Bus Hi-Z 1 MOSI FAIL CLK FAIL MISO FAIL CS FAIL MODE and VREG LEDs should be on! Any key to exit
With the correct jumpers: HiZ>~ Disconnect any devices Connect (Vpu to +5V) and (ADC to +3.3V) Space to continue Ctrl AUX OK MODE LED OK PULLUP H OK PULLUP L OK VREG OK ADC and supply 5V(5.02) OK VPU(5.02) OK 3.3V(3.33) OK ADC(3.32) OK Bus high MOSI OK CLK OK MISO OK CS OK Bus Hi-Z 0 MOSI OK CLK OK MISO OK CS OK Bus Hi-Z 1 MOSI OK CLK OK MISO OK CS OK MODE and VREG LEDs should be on! Any key to exit
Hi; I followed Dave Jones power supply videos, then they stopped. This looks really good, but at that price a KORAD KA3005P is cheaper. I will follow with interest.
Hi; Here is a simple but versatile power supply board. It uses either a TO-220 7805 or a TO-92 78L05 (or other voltages). Power LED is optional, and can be on-board or remote with a header. Power switch is optional, install a 2-pin header and cut the trace between it. I usually use the power jack and cut a hole in the side of a case, then hot glue and black RTV to hold it. There is a power in 2-pin header as well as 2.1mm power jack. Headers are of course optional, just solder wires in the holes.
In the PCBs_Production folder are the Eagle files, also png files that are hard to read.
This shows that the contrast pot is wired to the lcd, turn it CW for max contrast. It also shows that the backlight pot is wired to LED-A, turn it CCW for max R. However the LED-K goes to the collector of T1, and through it to ground. So if T1 is off, no backlight, the PIC must output a H to turn it on. This is an NPN, and it is switching ground, so you could jumper pin 18 to ground.
If you have a voltmeter you can measure pins 1,2,3,17, and 18. If you have a breadboard and a 5V supply then you can test the LCD as I did.
