Here is a breakout board that I designed. It is specifically for the PIC18F67K90 chip, but it will work with some other 64-pin microcontrollers from Microchip. All port pins are routed to standard pinheads. Power pins have .1uF bypass caps near the chip and the power connection is bypassed by a 10uF cap. A standard HC49 crystal is also included. Schematic and board files are in Eagle format.
I agree that pk2 is a better and more versitile device, but my pk2 clone quit working. Besides, I need to program 16F1507-09 series and maybe 24E or 33E series - none of which are supported by pk2. The Olimex clone (shipped) costs more than the original. The Sure clone (shipped) costs about $20 less than the original. I have most of the parts on hand already so it would still be much cheaper for me to build one.
I am not new to electronics, but I am relatively new to board design. I designed the original "CM29" through-hole version of the pk2. The thread is on edaboard.com. I built it entirely with free samples and parts from my salvage bin. I seemed to be the only person that could get my hardware to work. It has since been reworked and perfected by others on the edaboard forum.
I understand that this project is child's play to most of you, and may not be useful to as many people as most other projects on DP, but I am surprised that nobody on this forum wanted to show of their expertise. Oh, well.
What's the need of single sided? Seeed charges are same for 2 layer boards, and 2layers boards are easy to route while designing.
@arupbsk, It don't need to be single-sided. I was only trying to do it single-sided because I etch my own boards using the press-n-peel-laser-printer-iron method and I can only do single-sided boards with jumper-wires. That was before I discovered Seeed. Now I prefer double-sided.
A couple more things:
The memory chips are SOIC 150mil not 208mil. The USB connector needs to be mirrored or better yet, changed to a surface-mount type to avoid confusion.
I loved my Pickit 2, but Pickit 3 supports the new 16F150X chips and I think the 24E/DSPIC33E chips.
My Pickit 2 was fine for my projects and it also has some other great features (UART tool, logic analyzer), but now it is not working properly.
It would probably be only a few more dollars and much less hassle to just buy an original, but like most people on this forum, I just like to build things!!!
The reason for single-sided was that I make my boards with a worn-out HP laser printer, press-n-peel blue film, and a clothes iron. I also wanted to keep it as simple as possible for the low-budget hobbiests who must make their own boards. That is how I built my Pickit 2. However, double-sided boards are virtually impossible to do in that manner. Enter Seeed. Problem solved.
My schematic is identical to the original in every respect except: The MOSFET's are replaced with discretes from ON semiconductor. They could be easily changed back to the original Fairchild parts. I only did that so I could build it with samples. Q3 and Q4 are Central Semiconductor - again so I could use samples. I also omitted the test points.
The fuses are 1206, resistors are 0603, Ceramic caps are 0805. The tantalum caps are huge, but could possibly be shrunk to a smaller size.
I have the PicKit 3 schematic drawn into Eagle if anybody is interested in helping with the layout. It would be a big challenge to do the layout single-sided, and I am not very good doing double-sided boards.
If somebody will help with the layout, I will pay for the boards from Seeed - as long as I get 1 or 2 for me, I will donate the rest.
For the function generator, the XR2206 from Exar/Sipex is a good chip. For the controller I would say the PIC24E series. 12-bit ADC, 9 16-bit timers, built-in USB OTG, 16-bit PWM. The Piccolo series from TI also has great analog!!! An ATX power supply has +/-5V, +/-12V, and +3.3V. That would be fine for most applications.