I understand his point he cannot lose more money with you but the issue here is to prove that the damage was not done by you and because of poor components. My task here is to help you and not enter into such arguments so the doubt always remains from a seller point of view that you did something wrong, it's his own polite exit from such matter.
If you need help here there are a lot of ppl willing to help you just do your part and take it as a challenge and do not give up.
Yea i feel ya, just a bit bummed. Specifically bought the board since i didnt want to deal with fully sourcing and building it myself.
Any advice as to what you would do from here.
- Board powers up on DC seems to be functioning ( havent tried the heating element since the PSU i have isnt powerful enough) - on AC the display remains off, When ive added an EMI filter the board powers up but as soon as i put a cartridge in i get the power lost message. - The 2.42 display i have doesnt want to work on AC no matter what i try but on DC it works fine. - After C1 i meassure 23.46 volt on AC and on DC - For the J3 Connector to the front board the 3.3v line on AC is 2v and on DC its like it should (3.3v)
I can only read in this forum, I counted at least 7 people that are saying they got no reply on the same issue 511c.
Blame the end user for a mistake or something else is just unfair since from here it is clear something went wrong in his components supplies since all said that the PCB was working fine.
I do not have any interest nor I sell anything related to Unisolder, I am here to help, learn and improve my Unisolder with add on mods etc. Re quality I cannot say anything since till today I never seen a tindy board.
Last not least mistakes happen if that is the case not the end of the world for loveDiy. If LoveDiy response here and take responsibility and help all users with legit problems it would be nice.
Up until recently the feedback from lovediy was helpful but when i reported the issue i am facing right now, it was "The shipment has been tested, it should not be!"
I just hope ill be soldering with my JBC tips soon :/
Already thinking of just buying a cheap chinese station that takes jbc tips.
The first back board i got in the kit was faulty and got replaced after a bit of troubleshooting but now the second board i still have issues with. the seller is communicative but yea the quality seems sub par. I have ordered most of the BOM and got a new hot air station so I am thinking about redoing the backboard. But yea at first i just wanted a solid station which i didnt have to solder a board for myself, but it looks like I have to anyways..
In my case, C1 is the same on DC and AC (24V) however on DC if you check for AC voltage you will find 0V instead of 10V +- on AC. I asked you re-model since I read here that some models do not work very well. If you need any measurement to compare I can also help with the scope if needed.
By any chance have you checked what Sparky suggested which is for the CURRENT DC to DC being low for 2.42". Have you tried the 0.96" it will be a good test?
Well.. the issue also persists with the original display. And the cartridge also doesnt get hot so that makes me think the front board isnt powering up at all.
Turns out it aint the display, today i rewired everything with new connectors and such and on ac it still doesnt work but on dc everything works fine. On c1 i get 24v on ac and dc power. So im going to try to probe around a bit more and see if i can spot changes between ac and dc. But yeaa still scratching my head not sure what could cause this. especially since after the first part at c1 it has the same voltage as DC which makes me feel there shouldnt be a difference.
So after some troubleshooting i found out that the display was the culprit, i am using a 2.42 inch display, the display seems to work fine when i have the hooked up to 24V DC but it doesnt wanna light up on 24V AC. Any ideas what could be done to fix this or do i maybe need a different display if i want a bigger one?
Hey, I've been having issues with my back board, it seems to work on DC but not on AC any ideas why that would be? The toroidal outputs 26.88v and the voltage gets to the board so the connections are fine.
Any suggestions as to what it could be or what i should try would be greatly appreciated!
So i ended up connecting the board to my lab psu to check whether everything was functional got the sleep sensor working with a board that came with my kit from tindie. But then once it comes off of sleep and is going to heat up it trips my PSU. I checked all connections and everything is wired up correctly. To me this looks like that the load is too high or that there is a short however i checked all wiring thoroughly and i've seen people pull 5a 30v just fine out of this PSU.
So here i am scratching my head at what my next step should be. Any pointers/things to look into would be greatly appreciated. I will have my toroidal i tomorrow but am kind of hesitant to hook it up if i have a slight suspicion of a short being there.
For the auto sleep / tip changing, that sense board is it sold somewhere pre-assembled? and i saw that the uni solder has an input for a sleep signal, i cant just wire that up to my holder? or does that lead need to be connected to the sense board?
The collar is connected to the outer shell of the tip when there is a tip in the handle, both on C245 and C210 original handles. I don't know if this is intentional or the tip's outer shell just touches the collar, but I cannot make it not to have connection whil the tip is in, no matter what I do.
Hmmm ah ok yea i might just be using the wrong tips then. I just noticed i have some c210 tips in my t245 handle, maybe that is the issue. these c210 seem to be a bit smaller maybe thats why they arent making the connection all the time?
yea i checked whether the collar is connected to any of the leads. but neither of the 3 leads has a connection to the collar. i wonder how the actual jbs station does this.
In very simple terms it detects if the handle is touching the cradle (this would trigger sleep), if the tip is touching the quick tip-changer, the w-shaped metal piece on your stand (this would trigger tip-change mode), or neither ("on").
The tip not being centered shouldn't be an issue for the sleep sensor as I believe the tip and that metal collar are both connected to ground, but I'd be a bit concerned about that in general as if it's bad enough, the contact points of the cartridge may not seat well.
I tested the collar to see if it was connected to one of the 3 leads of the handle, but it wasnt. and i know original jbs handles have 3 leads just like this one. so here i am scratching my head.
