[quote author="vulkan35"]Fully assembled PCBs, making 3-4 days, accept paypal.
[/quote]
Would you sell just the front PCB with everything except the USB connector and buttons populated, and flashed. So I only have to populate the USB and the buttons, plug it in and be ready to use it?
Well... The 3D printed parts will have to wait, when trying to get the first print on the Ender 3, the exposed 24Vdc connectors for the heatbed snagged on something and shorted for a millisecond and the IDC flatcable going from the mainboard to the display assembly had one of the wires burned clean of, like a wire in a fuse...
I've ordered the MKS GEN-L with display, stepper drivers and SD-card reader to replace the stock Creality HW.
That, in my book, is a serious design flaw...having exposed, high current leads(solder connections actually).
I've started populating the second (I have two sets of UniSolder boards) front PCB, it's taking forever as I only work on diy stuff when my levels of pain allows me to do so.
[quote author="eric1981"][quote author="lukane"][quote author="eric1981"]Thanks sparkybg for this great design I built one and works really well Here's my 3d printed case for UniSolder
thingiverse thing:3460761
Sorry for i can not post the url cause i'm a new user...
Cause my bad english, maybe update description for the detail of 3d print later, lot translate work todo Wish you guys understand how this enclosure works Tranformer must smller than 95mm*55mm or you can edit the stl to fit your transformer [attachment=0] [attachment=1][/quote]
Hi, I've just gotten a 3D printer, an Ender 3 along with a bunch of upgrade parts. I'm not at all familiar with designing or changing designs in CAD software though.
I've gotten this transformer for my buiĺd:
Quote
Type of transformer: toroidal Power: 120VA Primary voltage: 230V AC Secondary voltage 1: 24V Secondary winding current 1: 5A Weight: 1.3kg Leads: cables Diameter: 105mm Height: 40mm IP rating: IP00 Insulation class: II Thermal class: Ta40B Conform to the norm: PN-EN 61558 Electrical insulation strength: 4kV/60s Cable length: 150mm Kit contents: rubber washer x2 Kit contents: lid Manufacturer: INDEL
How would one modify the enclosure to fit that transformer? What material would be best to print with? PLA as far as my limited knowledge does not like heat so that, I'm guessing, would make it unsuitable.[/quote]
I'm using PETG ,better heat resistance than PLA Sorry for my design just can fit 95mmx55mm transformer, but i'm planning rebuild this model to fit more different transformer Maybe few days later, i will let you know when i done[/quote] Thanks!
[quote author="eric1981"]Thanks sparkybg for this great design I built one and works really well Here's my 3d printed case for UniSolder
thingiverse thing:3460761
Sorry for i can not post the url cause i'm a new user...
Cause my bad english, maybe update description for the detail of 3d print later, lot translate work todo Wish you guys understand how this enclosure works Tranformer must smller than 95mm*55mm or you can edit the stl to fit your transformer [attachment=0] [attachment=1][/quote]
Hi, I've just gotten a 3D printer, an Ender 3 along with a bunch of upgrade parts. I'm not at all familiar with designing or changing designs in CAD software though.
I've gotten this transformer for my buiĺd:
Quote
Type of transformer: toroidal Power: 120VA Primary voltage: 230V AC Secondary voltage 1: 24V Secondary winding current 1: 5A Weight: 1.3kg Leads: cables Diameter: 105mm Height: 40mm IP rating: IP00 Insulation class: II Thermal class: Ta40B Conform to the norm: PN-EN 61558 Electrical insulation strength: 4kV/60s Cable length: 150mm Kit contents: rubber washer x2 Kit contents: lid Manufacturer: INDEL
How would one modify the enclosure to fit that transformer? What material would be best to print with? PLA as far as my limited knowledge does not like heat so that, I'm guessing, would make it unsuitable.
[quote author="salavat"][quote author="lukane"] I got the PicKit 3.5 recognized by MPLab X IPE, but I was unable to flash the firmware as I got error messages:
Quote
Target device was not found (could not detect target voltage VDD)
If I held down the button on the PicKit 3.5 as in the guide posted earlier, the IPE did not detect the PicKit 3.5 Only when connecting the PicKit to the computer without the button pressed could IPE detect the tool. [/quote]
1) Have you connected Front board to power supply (e.g. Back board), is it powered? 2) Check whether you connected Pickit cable correctly - 'arrow' wire on Picket should be connected to square pad on front board. 2) That is correct - if after holding button on Pickit MPLab does not see it, reconnect Pickit to computer.[/quote]
I've checked voltages from back pcb, they are spot on.
Arrow (PicKit) - pin1 (square pad): yes.
That leaves: VDD is interupted on front PCB before reaching the PIC32 PIC32 is busted. And, any number of things I haven't thought of now as I've not operated on all cylinders while running a high fever.
I was thinking of having a couple of cheap kapton stencils made for these boards, but I could only find the gerber for that for the "full" set of boards. I wanted to get stencils for the individual boards. With my chronic pain, there's no way for me to populate the whole set in one go.
Does any one have the files to get stencils for the individual boards?
[quote author="Morpheus1979"][quote author="DeKu"]Are there any Suggestions as to what to solder First and what last?[/quote] It's usually suggested to solder the smallest (smd) components first, followed by the bigger ones... while the through hole parts are the last ones soldered in.[/quote] I agree with the general idea, but in this case especially if handsoldering...I'd look long and hard at the layout and solder parts on in an order that made access to surrounding parts as easy as possible. This set of boards, in some places, have a very high component density in lack of a better word. So if I were to handsolder all parts, I'd think about the order long and hard before starting to solder them in place. As for TH parts, agreed they should be the last ones to be populated. Just my 2 cents
I thought I was actually banned by a mod, and couldn't figure out why...
Having myself been a moderator at a rather large forum for a few years way back, I was stomped that I didn't get any warning prior to a temporary ban. But it seems the bans were accidental or the result of the forum getting hacked.
I got the PicKit 3.5 recognized by MPLab X IPE, but I was unable to flash the firmware as I got error messages:
Quote
Target device was not found (could not detect target voltage VDD)
If I held down the button on the PicKit 3.5 as in the guide posted earlier, the IPE did not detect the PicKit 3.5 Only when connecting the PicKit to the computer without the button pressed could IPE detect the tool.
I may have damaged the first PIC32 IC, or some other part on the front PCB. The Back PCB put out all the correct voltages. Good thing I have a second set of PCB's, and I've started to populate the front PCB of that set. If I'm able to flash that one ok, then I'll go back and rework the, I suspect, faulty one.
It may take some time as I'm recovering from the worst flu I've had in some time...the fever had me almost halucinating the three nights it was at it's peak.
Sometime next week I'll get a 3D printer, something I need to make enclosures and, more importantly, make a few temporary parts for my diy CNC router/mill/engraver that will allow me to actually use it. Those printed parts are only required to last as long as it takes me to cut their replacements in aluminium. Sorry about the OT, though not completely OT as both the CNC router and the 3D printer will be used for parts for the UniSolder project.
Thank you for the replies. I am refering to the primary/mains side fuse. The secondary, 5A fuse, is intact.
Running a fever now, but will go over wiring agan once I feel better.
I did use ohms law to calculate primary side fuse, but things like inrush current for the transformer was not taken in to account as I prefer to error on the side of caution.
[quote author="afedorov"]It's nothing to do with сapacity. It's construction and materials. One cap with exactly the same specification may be susceptible to micro-phonic effect at a given frequency in the specific environment and other is not. Dave Jones have a video about that. I didn't manage to remove the noise completely, but changing only one cap greatly reduce it. Regarding the ripple, it's high (well, for this converter 40mVpp I achieved with CL31A106KAHNNNE and 680p C76 is actually OK, but initially I had 80mVpp with C1206C106K3PACTU and 100p C76) but not that critical, reduced ripple is just a bonus, that might not be. Fairchild in the datasheet for FAN5331 recomends using ceramic caps.[/quote]
Ok, So you have added a smaller value cap across the 10uF/25V cap. edit: my bad, you wrote 100p C76. My "audiophile-brainwashed-thinking" lol tells my to go with a factor of ten, ie: 10uF 1uF 100nF etc
I have read the reasoning behing that, but I can't recall it now. I know the footprint, if using reflow soldering, allows for 1206 size parts...just barely. Maybe go for a 10uF X7R and a 1nF C0G across it(as in handsolder it on top of the 10uF)? Using 1206 sized parts would allow for better dielectric and more voltage headroom.
[quote author="afedorov"][quote author="lukane"]There was also a high pitch sound from the unisolder boards or transformer...sort of like coil-whine.[/quote] It's probably from the OLED board (C71 particularly). I had this too. I've tested caps from several manufacturers and find that Samsung cap (CL31A106KAHNNNE) produces lesser noise and lower output voltage ripple. Now it's barely audible.[/quote] Hmm, I'm using TDK X7R spec:ed part on C71. If it's a matter of ripple or noise on the output...could I add capacitance to improve that? Say a 15uF or 22uF X7R(I could in theory go as high as 47uF using a 1210 sized X5R cap), maybe stack a 1uF or 100nF on top of it?
This is how I'd do it in a supply meant for audio where noise really really matters. Well, not stack caps, but as there's the one footprint there's not much choice unless I solder something like a Wima filmcap (through hole) across C71.
I realize this would not be very practical in the UniSolder as it would take up a lot of space and not being very read up on the type of circuit used, I don't even know it it would make sense using That much PSU filtering. And, last but not least, my PS experience is limited to things like discrete shunt regs, LDO's like TPS7A4700, TPS7A3301, LT3042EMSE and similar devices.
I have trouble wrapping my head around why a lesser spec;ed cap would perform better than a higher spec;ed one. Unless it's a case of low esr causing instability. Some voltage regs aren't at all happy with low esr caps for example.
That is a very very nice build! Something I'd be proud to have along my diy audio stuff tbh.
I didn't know you could keep the PCB the OLED's comes with, most often they come with a PCB atleast.
Or have you made your own PCB/changes to the PCB that came with the OLED?[/quote]
Thanks a lot Lukane! I could show you my DIY fully active 2 way floor standers based on a full range driver supplemented with a 10" bass unit but that would be off topic indeed :)
Yes the Oleds are 100% plug and play, you do not need to modify the back board at all. Very convenient.[/quote]
My dipole speakers are currently in the attic, a 2 and a half year old and exposed drivers and crossover(mid/high) doesn't really go together all that well.
They're build using Dayton 15" IB, Dayton 7" Reference Alu mid and B&G Neo 8 magnetostatic mid/highs.
Though speaker building isn't my thing...I lucked out with that build as they sound on par with a pair of €9000 speakers I compared them to.
My stronger side is the electronics, having designed a couple of DAC's, headphone amps, etc and built everything from Class A power amps, Class D and Class T power amps, tube amps, preamps, DAC's, DSP's (FreeDSP and a combined Audio-Widget/FreeDSP) and much more. I use 99% SMD parts these days as I find them much easier to work with and, tbh, stuff like PPS caps sound great as decoupling caps. Another perk is that I have a huge collection of parts, but with "sample books/binders", it takes up very little space.
My diy audio builds is the reason for wanting the UniSolder. A good soldering station is vital for getting heat fast where it needs to be. Granted, I do most soldering via reflow....some audio IC's that are extra heat-sensitive I do by hand, and there's always a few TH parts needed and there's the connectors etc.
I am reading your last post and getting impression that you flash PIC some another than the way as I did for so many times already with my Unisolder board.
1) Flashing Unisolder firmware does not require compilation at all (if we have to - it would be a nightmare since it requires certain paid compilator - I think it is 1.33 which has to be run with optimisation key, and you barely can find it on the net, since it is obsolete for Microchip). 2) There are already compiled HEX files in the Unsolder software file. 3) To flash Unisolder PIC32 you need MPLAB X IDE, which consists of 2 apps: - IDE (for development) - IPE (for flashing devices essentially) It is available for Win, Mac and Linux (https://www.microchip.com/mplab/mplab-x-ide) During installation you can install just IPE (without IDE), or at least version for Mac let me do so. 4) The rest I have described earlier in this thread.[/quote]
Hi,
I'm going to flash the hex with IPE, that is why I ordered the PicKit 3.5. And this is why I don't wish to expirement more with other software like pic32prog or other if I don't have to. From what I understand, the PicKit 3.5 should appear under "select tool" in the MPLab IPE UI? I've had MPLab X IDE and MPLab IPE installed on Fedora since I started putting the UniSolder boards together.
I apologize for any confusion caused by my english skills, or lack thereof...[/quote]
You should not be sorry, Microchip made apps made not for humans, unfamiliar with embed dev tools)).
it should appear for sure with green button in the app. Find my step by step guide in this thread, if pickit does not appear after pressing and releasing button on it and while connecting it to PC, just unplug USB and plug it again.[/quote]
Hi,
I have had your step by step guide saved ever since you posted it. Thanks for posting it!
If I get the PicKit to connect to MPLab IPE, then there should be no problems flashing the PIC32MX from Fedora, right? The PicKit 3.5 and the STLink V2 should arrive this week, hopefully on Monday or Tuesday. I ordered a couple of other PIC IC's (cheap ones) as I plan on learning to use PIC for digital audio applications such as digital filters etc. I ordered an STLink V2 at the same time as the PicKit 3.5 as I could not flash "the blue pill" STM32 board with Arduino...despite many good guides on the internet. I'm hoping the STLink will make that easier. The blue pill board is intended to control Dimdim's design of WM8805 in software mode.
That is, if I ever get around to learning PIC programming. My main interest is diy audio, PIC could be a tool to replace hard to find, and therefor stupid expensive, digital IC's.
But, I realize this is way off topic....sorry about that.
Open Source Hardware
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