[quote author="DinikS"] Thank you cbi7333! I'm very appreciate your support. I've not decided yet to buy or not but if it's possible for you to write details here may be it will be interesting for others.[/quote]
The German post site doesn't seem to provide other language options. But I do know German, have an account there and would be happy to help anyone out that wants to order from a German firm and they have high post charges to your location/country.
From Germany to most other countries outside EU costs 16 EUR for 2kg with length + width + height 90cm or less. This seems to be their standard 'World' price. Within most of EU around 10 EUR. Pickup charges are around 4 eur. See attachment for example to Kyrgyzstan. Unfortunately, it seems one of the only countries they can't handle is RU :( and some 'troubled' parts of UA (Crimea/Donetsk/Lugansk etc) For RU countries/areas the only option is normal DHL or other couriers.
I already have an account there so if you don't understand German would be easiest just to contact me we can exchange details and I can arrange it all at cost for unisolder folks. I can even call the supplier to make sure all goes ok. Most but not all suppliers are ok with doing this. Larger suppliers may not like doing so as their systems are automated to work in one way with one or maybe two couriers.
I can book shipments, let you know the cost, send you and the supplier the prefilled label and you can paypal me. The shipments can be tracked.
I am not affiliated with any suppliers or jbc and have absolutely no financial interests. Just offering to help out folks here if I can, on an occasional basis and as time permits.
Weidinger has high post charges outside EU, but you can have it picked up by the German post/DHL, think I paid around EUR18 to Bulgaria, most places in EU around 10 EUR or so. https://www.efiliale.de/dhl-online-frankierung
Just send me a message if you need to know details how to have the German post pick it up and get the prepaid label online.
Just throwing this out there for comments/critique and a couple questions..
Found an old alarm radio case in the garage that's around the right size, see the pics.
The leds showing approx power (basically replicating bar graph in display) is a bit Christmasy but would give visual feedback while soldering without squinting at the screen. Would just be like testing continuity with an analog meter not even looking directly at the meter. Any ideas how such a circuit could be accomplished? Also there is enough room to mount the display on the top in the same area so could see the temp as well. Just thought might make some use of the 8 LED holes already there, maybe better for tips? [attachment=1] [attachment=0]
Thanks for the video link minkok! could you describe your implementation of the rotary encoder?
[quote author="minkok"]Unfortunately the current firmware dos not support quick tip exchange, needs of power recycle to be able to recognize replugged tip on the stand.[/quote]
Once I get my Uni built, I was thinking about trying to build in a rotary switch to switch between different handles, T245, T210 etc. I bought few of these NOS 5 position switches a while back at a great price that might work out. There would always be an off position between the settings, for example T245, off, T210, off, T105. I think this would allow enough 'off' time for re-identification cycling. Sparky mentioned possible trouble with different metals in switches, these are quite robust, fully silver plated so hopefully will work ok.
Here's a pretty decent video of oled display soldering. Note the use of liquid flux on the board prior to placing the oled strip and soldering so that the solder draws through those tiny holes and makes good connections on both sides of the strip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsPtvdQ7zbc Note very little pressure should be used.
I can imagine multiple manipulations / resoldering could easily damage the strip connectors, especially the edges of those holes under the tape. Might be able to prod around with a spudger or toothpick to see which part of the strip might be intermittently connecting and touch up. If it's a break, might be able to try carefully scraping off a bit of the yellow kapton tape and bridge it but that would probably require a good microscope and a sharp dental pick.. only as a temporary solution till you get a new oled. Some idea what might be involved here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwvelNOHioY
I received an andonstar hdmi microscope (200 bucks ebay / amazon) a couple weeks ago and really like it. I repurposed the stand though and mounted the camera on a microphone desk mount suspension boom (10 bucks amazon) to get it out of the way of an old hdmi monitor. Used a 3/8Fem to 1/4Male adapter also from amazon camera items to match them up. Works like a charm and one of the better investments I've made recently. [attachment=0]
Really just guessing wildly... but is it possible you have the SENSEA and SENSEB reversed? Might explain why you get a low temp reading for the iron that gets really hot....
Don't know if anyone has posted such before, but attached is a word document of C locations (use at your own risk and let me know of any errors). Just click the line and two white boxes appear like with C63 in the image below.... hope it helps others.
I might try to use | _ in another header/footer row to show orientation or something like that.. Any suggestions before moving on to R's?
[attachment=0]
Edit: Just saw Bug82's post referencing a much nicer implementation by MadBekon a while back.. RTFF LOL download/file.php?id=12034
Received my kit from the RU Ebay vendor today (pm if you want the link) and thought I'd do a couple unboxing pics in case someone else is considering ordering there. It departed RU quickly but spent some time getting to Italy and through customs etc.. about a month travel in all but this gave me time to find a case, transformer, jbc panel plugs and other accessories aside from cleaning up the workbench so no big problem. Was convenient not to have to spend hours searching / ordering everything, then worry if I ordered the 'right one' of this and that. Price quite reasonable. You might note a few extra components. I asked for a few extra passives and threw in some extra beer money rather than search for hours for those that rapidly escape the grasp of the tweezers.. So... perfect Friday delivery timing and the fun can begin this weekend :) If the person who sent the kit is hanging around here feel free to ping me - and a big Thanks!!
Edit: The person in RU who was selling kits won't be offering them for the foreseeable future. He has other work commitments that are taking all his time. I asked him to let me know if he starts selling them again.
ScotY808, Anything heating up? If you can't tell the difference by the touch test can maybe try a few drops of alcohol to see if any particular UXX makes the alcohol evaporate much faster.
Hi ScotY808, Sparky, afedorov, dumitruv, puzzle and any others I may have missed these last few pages,
Thanks to all of you for this good info debugging Scot's board. I'm sure much of it will be helpful for me once I start soldering. I'm starting to copy some extracts into a xls file to keep handy as a troubleshooting guide. I also see that the search function has either been improved or I'm finally able to work with it correctly. No 'too many results' errors have appeared lately.
