My Unisolder is almost ready and i would like to show you. Design is inspired and adapted from this post. The area where the acrylic glass (also have it in lighter shade) sits on need to be painted or anodizing black. Because of cost i prefer to paint it by myself.
Can you please post the source of this beautiful housing.
Let me explain what is happening when I connect no iron it work as it should, I can change temp to any value. I can enter in menu with no issue. When I connect the iron it remain COLD, on screen it will appear 511C and rapid switch to sensor open and goes back to 511 C at fast rate (200MS) in a LOOP. I still believe the issue is on the front pcb but honestly we did nothing for this to occur in the first place and we also have no clue what to buy and remove next without replace everything. The iron is set to 340c but it get override with 511c not sure if that is the MAX set in code. It can read my Iron when connected using T12.
Thanks.
Which temperature you got displayed when you connect the handle without the solder tip?
may I ask what cleaner you use please? Which Mosfet shall I try ?
You can use isopropanol and a esd safe brush for cleaning the pcb. Which temperature you got displayed when connect the handle without a tip? What you mean with flickering? The whole oled?
Anyone who wishes to have this printed, please find files attached to make it easy. All credit to Doomedahab
I played also with Doomedahab's panel, i created an 3D printable version. I added spacers for PCB installation. I also reduced all fastening holes to 2.7 mm (M3 screws can be used directly without thread cutting)
Thanks for sharing. As I thought that is very narrow my toroidal transformer won't even fit in 101.50 mm x 101.50 mm. With €9.70 I have enough Aluminum to make 8 Front and 8 Back.
WOW, the price Total: $136.30 + $42.75 for 1, hard to justify that but as I already said the end result looks nice.
You can export from the schaeffer frontplatten designer a dxf or step file.
With a step file you can mill or water-/lasercut the panel. I guess there are some companies which manufacturers the panel for a better price.
You can also 3D print the panel with the step file, but 3d printed looks not so professional as made from metal.
Keep the encoder button pressed down and power on.
I already tried to press down the encoder and power on, it doesn't work. With the push buttons I can force the bl when I press +/- before power on. Can I update the bootloader with the PC software? My bootloader is from ~2016
Some people here have had good success with a 50 cent mechanical encoder, while the ones I received were decidedly "meh". I also purchased a 30 dollar Bourns optical encoder and I actually do not like it very much either, as it's push button has no clear click, and it has an annoying rattle when turning it. I also have a CUI devices optical encoder en-route, as well as a couple of ALPS mechanical encoders. I'll share my impressions of those when I have used them for a while
I think your best bet is to order a couple of cheap mechanical encoders and see if you get along with them. As time passes, more and more users will be sharing their experiences with different encoders I'm sure, and you will be able to make an informed decision then.
I found in my spare parts box a KY-040 mechanical encoder. I tested this encoder. Till now my impression is that the encoder is better as the push buttons, but it will not be my final encoder Maybe I'll try some midend price encoders from alps.
How you can enter the bootloader when something gets wrong? With push buttons the bl can be forced when pressing + and - poweron the unisolder.
Its a good and cheap solution as you say But the problem is that i already have WXDP120 . In first coarse wxdp 120 iron heating test (witch lighter and two multimeters) i reached Resistance and Temperature values equal to PT1000 probe table values in range 30 to 300 degrees of celsius (ofc with little deviation). Which profile will be best to remake to WXDP120? Also rest of aboved profile will need to be changed :c How to beat that?
Maybe the WXDP120 use the same pinout / temperature sensor as the WSP80 / DSX-80 and can be used with a tweaked WSP80 profile?
But it is certainly not without danger that the soldering iron or the Unisolder pcb can be destroyed during testing.
During my first attempt to operate the DSX-80, I limited the target temperature to 100C and placed the soldering iron in distilled water
Very nice idea, When do you say cheap what value since I am interested? Weller is far from cheap a simple tweezer will cost your bank
I did research from my supplier: 1> €128 for the Heater. 2> €146 complete (Just with handle iron).
You have to check eBay / other platforms. At the end of the last year there was a seller at eBay Kleinanzeigen which sold NOS DSX-80 heater for ~60€. I have just searched for the ad, but unfortunately it is already offline
Hello Unisolder friends Im very happy user of Unisolder station since last week I solder 10 pcs of it with Weller WD1 and WSP80 (horrible but not impossible). Recently i tested it with Pace TD100, Weller WSP80 and JBC245 irons. I would like to connect it to Weller WXDP 120 (same like ppsati in post #359, directly to iron and sensor of course) and make desoldering station. Could You help me with my problem? I want to ask also great sparkybg, maybe would You write some FAQ for begginers (like me) how to create own iron profile, wchich will describe where in code (iron.c?) and how use PIC software to change iron.c parameters, how found parameters to paste (for example touch to another iron/i mean soldering station like weller/ witch set temperature for a while and read value on unisolder?), compile it all and send it via usb to Unisolder 5.2? I try to understand iron.c, but i see only a equation with constans (parameters) that i dont understand.
PS. Sorry for my English and for my stuppid questions wchich may be very easy for many of you.
For desoldering you can use Weller Dsx-80, this iron has 80W and can be used with the WSP80 profile.
With luck you can find the replacement iron without handle cheap. I designed an grip which can be 3d printed. As vacuum pump I used an old Mercedes door locking pump.
In your github project page I read that you recommend an 24V toroidal transformer. Can you please explain what are the benefits for choosing an 24v instead of a transformer with 28V.
Thank you for the hint Time to buy a 120VA toroidal transformer I adjusted the voltage from the SPS to 27,5V now i have more power. I have the 21 message also with the newest fw 2020.06