I bought assembled board from Tindie and found out that they are flashed with some firmware I am not aware of. Namely, there's added items in the manu, namely: 1. "CTRL ORDER", with options R->L and L->R 2. "TEMP STEP" 3. "LOOP MENU" - ON or OFF 4. "RESUME" - AUTO, SENS, KEY, OFF 5. "DEBUG MENU"
Can anyone give me a clue where to download sources. I may be upload them in the first post as official firmware, but I need to take a look before doing this.
80V is definitely better. And the resistance is 0.025ohm which is also better. These P-channel MOSFET-s are one of the few components in this project that do warm up a bit on heavy load. The other ones are the Schottky rectifiers, but there's not much to do about them except using larger ones on heatsiknk.
Anyway, I never detected more than around 50-55 degrees Celsius on any component so the temperatures are pretty safe. And this is when I continuously tested my PID algorithm by submerging C245 ot C210 tip in isopropyl alcohol in order for them to work on full power for long periods. When normally used, none of the controller's components warms up more than 10-15 degrees above ambient.
Supply it with transformer instead without connecting earth/ground. I suspect you've got a ground loop between pickit3's USB connection and your DC power supply. Or use a laptop on battery for programming, but this project needs isolated power supply anyway.
[quote author="minkok"] Thank you sparkybg, but I need to be trouble free ready and I will connect both plates together :) [/quote] I don't quite understand this. What trouble other than from a hot tip?
[quote author="minkok"] you can see it at my video - sleep temp. is 175C and the tip of the handle is at the border, still cannot melt the solder. Best regards[/quote]
The lowest temperature solder (63/37) melts at 183C so it shouldn't melt the solder at 175.
[quote author="fullylit"]Hi guys, first time long time...anyhow my question is focused on the OLED board itself. If I were to purchase OLED from like aliexpress which is attached to a board...do I need the board from the sparkybg files still?
Also, in about a week I will have at least 6 surplus boards for any folks in the US...I will post again upon arrival. Let me not forget, to sparkybg, much love bruh....awesome work.[/quote]
Yes, you will have to make the PCB. Don't buy OLED on PCB - you will have to desolder it. Buy only an OLED without PCB. There are plenty on ebay.
[quote author="minkok"]Hello sparkybg, my solder station is fully ready now, it is in perfect condition. I made a hardware for the sleep function and it needs around 20s to detect the 0 level at sleep pin. Is it normal and is it possible to decrease this time around 2s? I am asking because of a need of Hibernation, to be able to remove safety the heating element, but for the time of 20s is no sense. I uploaded a video to be more clear. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ifjh41if2izxg ... 9.3gp?dl=0 Best regards, minkok[/quote]
The holder sensing is made only for holder temperature decrease while in it. It has nothing to do with tip changing. With default settings as soon as you put the iron in the holder, it sets the temperature to 300 degrees immediately (holder temperatue in settings), then after some time (20s) it sets it to 250, and then after some more time (minutes, I don't remember how much but you can see it in the controller's settings), it goes to hibernation ("zzzzzz....." on screen) completely and cuts any power to the iron, and you have to switch the controller off and on in order to restart it.
About the sparks - at 24V the sparks are insignificant, and given the fact that most irons this controller drives are vastly overpowered for their size and are working with 10% or lower duty when idle, you will have a possibility of spark only in 10% of tip changes, and the spark itself depends on the current voltage so you have to pull the tip put at exact moment when the power to the iron is on and the mains voltage is around it's peak in order to get spark. So the possibility becomes something like 1-2%. Is it worth to even mention it? I don't think so.
The only "spark-safe" way to change tip is to turn the controller off while changing it. I never had any problems with this, and believe me - From V1 to V5.2, while developing the firmware, I've changed MANY tips in MANY handpieces MANY times while hot and without turning the controller off. All my handpieces and tips are in perfect shape (excluding some overheated tips while developing firmware) with absolutely no signs of sparks.
[quote author="Bug82"] If possible, I would also like to use my old Weller wmrp tips. At the moment i am using them with another DIY controller and a selfmade handpiece (without any electronics inside). In order to use them with the unisolder, do i need the modifications that sparkybg made for the Weller wmrt? Does anyone know if the parameters of the wmrp are similart to the wmrt? [/quote] I don't know if they are similar. I suspect they are, but only WMRT was sent to me so far so I cannot tell.
Electronics in the handle do add significant changes to the electrical parameters.
And yes, you must do the modifications to the front PCB in order to use it. If you send it to me for a week I can make a profile for you.
[quote author="Bug82"] I have a suitable vaccum pump and would like to use it together with my unisolder. Therefore i bought a ZD 915 desoldering gun. Now i read in another thread that sparkybg has the correspondig desoldering station. Did you ever try to make a profile for that handpiece? I understand that it doesnt make sense to include it in the distributed software because its not meant to be a desoldering station, in the first place. [/quote] Never tried it. The controller may be able to drive it, but the gun is with VERY low resistance so there might be a problems.
[quote author="Bug82"] To have 2 additional pins for the button on the desolderin iron i needed a connector with at least 10 pins. I didnt find a 10 pin connector with 6A rating. So now i am using a 12 pin Binder connector with 3A and use 2x2 pins for Vout1. Is it ok to have only 3A for Vout2?[/quote]
Better use separate 2 pin connector for pump controller. It will not have any connections with the controller so it is pointless to make common connector for both. With some firmware modifications SenseB can be made to read the switch, but the controller does not have any capability to control the pump - schematics, firmware and PCBs need to be modified for this and I don't know when (if ever) I will have the time for this.
Perhaps you damaged it while soldering. It can be either bad soldering, or interrupted trace on display's flexible PCB.
Look for bad soldering on the connectors of OLED PCB and front PCB. Maybe when you are connecting and disconnecting it it behaves normally and disconnects later.
Also, measure the OLED's booster voltage. It should be around 9V for your OLED. Just in case.
Although I never had any problems soldering the OLED or any other flexible PCB so far, I really don't like soldering flexible PCBs at all, but the footprint step of this display doesn't match any connector, so I didn't have any choice but to make it solderable.
When you order your next display you can give it to someone more experienced/with better equipment to solder it, if you know such person.
[quote author="minkok"]Bear in mind, that if you want fast response from the handles, you have to preheat them to 180 C using some current limiter.[/quote]
T245 need around 6-7 seconds to head up to 350 degrees Celsius. T210 needs around 4 seconds. I suspect NT105 will heat up even quicker, but I am yet to try it.
Absolute minimum is 4 pole - Vout1+, Vout1-, SenseA and SenseB. But you will have to switch the also the ID, so ID and Vout2- are also needed.
The firmware is not made for quick tool exchange. It needs at least 2 mains periods in order to detect that the instrument is disconnected, and after that in starts checking if another instrument is plugged in.
...and remember that you are measuring microvolts, and contacts of the switch/relay are with different metals, so it is quite possible for them to also become thermocouples. Small voltage drops here and there can also have impact on controller's accuracy and function.