Thank you for your contribution. I'm looking forward to the new version. The interface of the current version can be removed. This function doesn't work.
I use 24V AC 5A Toroidal Transformer. I used correct resistors across the boards.
I started doing calibration in the menu value shown is 2087 and my resistor is 10R. When I try to adjust trimmer nothing changes. Flickering only occurs with iron connector plugged (No cartridge present). This at least proves that ID is recognized correctly as I used resistors for T245 in my connector.
I will look into this issue tomorrow, any advice what to check?
There is "DCF" on the screen. This means DC power. Something is definitely wrong.
Much appreciated for your advise. I looked at both R28 and R27 Resistors and you were correct. Even thought I used "map" I orientated this components wrongly.
Fix this and again another step closer. After start it shows 21 and then standard image flickers, in the background I can read "SENSOR OPEN".
1. Use 24V toroidal transformer for power source. 2. If the problem persists, then there's a problem with iron's connection. 3. Did you use 0.1% resistors on all places that are marked to be 0.1% resistors? 4. Did you performed any calibration on it?
Bugfixes: - Revised all JBC, all PACE, and HAKKO T15 profiles due to malfunction in my controller's current sources.
The default display controller is SSD1306/7/8/9. If SH1106 is used, the R69 resistor on OLED board should be removed.
By default, external charge pump is used for the display. If internal charge pump is used, a 3K resistor between RES and D/C lines should be installed.
THESE TWO FUNCTIONS ARE STILL UNTESTED - I don't have neither SH1106 display or PCB with internal charge pump, so test with caution and tell me if they work.
And another new feature in CALIBRATION menu: 1. Press center button for 2 seconds. 2. Release it. 3. You will see "current" reading change from "0 128" to "1 128". This means now the controller shows SENSEB channel instead of SENSEA 4. Now connect 10Ohm resistor between SENSEB and Vout1. The resistance must be the same like this shown when resistor was between SENSEA and VOut1, or with minimum difference of (+/- 3 on last digit). 5. If you go again to step 1, you will change channel back to 0, and will be able to read resistance between SENSEA and Vout1-.
Using this, you can see if current sources and amplifier inputs of SENSEA and SENSEB operate properly and also calibrate in order to make 2 channels as close as possible to the resistor's resistance (for exmaple, if channel 0 shows 1004 and channel 1 shows 1000, it is better to set it so that channel 0 shows 1002 and channel 2 shows 998).
After some time I finally managed to put together my own Unisolder 5.2. I believe I am almost there however I am having issues with uploading a firmware. I successfully managed to upload bootloader. To do this I used Raspberry pi and "pickle". I believe this great alternative for pickit or aruduino. More details can be found under following link and here.
On start Display shows animation with square boxes moving towards left. When I start Unsolder software and I am trying to upload firmware nothing is happening. I tried a few things and no success so far. I am not sure where is the fault. Can somebody give me some on advise on this? Any help is much appreciated.
Which exact HEX file you are trying to upload? Give a link please.
Thank you for your contribution. I'm looking forward to the new version. The interface of the current version can be removed. This function doesn't work.
While waiting, remove R69 on the OLED board. The new software uses this to detect if controller is SH1106.
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