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Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
This is a 60V part, which is cutting it really close. Sparky recommended at least 80V parts.
Yes I read the post from sparky about that. I used a 56V TVS instead of 60V (1.5KE56A) and haven't noticed any nasty behaviour so far. But you are certainly correct, it's cutting it a bit close, I should probably also check for spikes. Sadly it doesn't let me edit my other post anymore (or I am just incapable of doing so). So thank you for pointing that out, someone who will read my post will likely read yours too. All should be good.
I will upload my LCSC BOM this weekend as I need to copy some stuff together first. There will be a few parts missing since they just don't stock them and no 0805 resistors because I use resistor kits mainly. Other prominent parts that are missing are the PIC32, MCP6V27, MCP6V28, ADG734 and the current shunt (if I remember correctly, might not be all of them). I tried to stick to reputable brands as far as possible.
Edit: About the TS-80 / TS-100 to JBC etc. comparison. I used my TS-80 for parts of the assembly, it's a wonderful tool, always surprised by it. But you can't compare it to a proper soldering station. For a station, I expect high tip variety and that it is ESD safe. If you want to ground the tips of the TS-80 you always have an extra grounding wire. Doesn't seem that bad, but when you are trying to be precise, it gets annoying.
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Project logs / Re: Really universal soldering controller
PCB should be clean as a whistle before power it on with a tool connected.
I think you are exaggerating. Cleaner boards are always better obviously (lower leakage currents in humid conditions etc.) but it is definitely not "vital" that the boards are extremely clean before powering up as long as the residues are non-corrosive and electrically safe to leave on the board. But that is just my opinion
I got one of my two assembled sets of boards working today (the other one will have to wait until I find more time). I had a little bit of an issue with the calibration and R showing 2087 constantly (independent of Rc2). The wiring on the 3-Pin header (ID,SenseA,SenseB) was to blame.
At this point a big thank you to Sparkybg for the project and also Valerio for his documentation as well as Bug82 for the interactive PCB map.
A few recommendations from my side if you are going to build this yourself:
1. Use soldermask colours with good track visibility (green, red, yellow). It makes for much easier assembly. I checked the orientation of all parts after assembly, but I got everything right first try without much attention, without looking anything up - just because I could actually see the traces. This might have been mentioned before, I'll say it again. Marco Reps said "unclear silkscreen". Silkscreen is not the problem, people ordering boards with black soldermask is the problem.
2. I think in most BOMs there are IDC connectors listed, I would just get a pre-made cable honestly. Easier and you don't end up with meters of flat cable you will rarely need. Also no potential of orientation issues.
3. Use AOD409 for Q2 and Q8. It is listed in some BOM and it's considerably cheaper than the MOSFET from the original BOM.
Also I might upload my BOM for all of the parts that are available from LCSC if there is any interest in that.