I've been watching this forum for a while, as I geared up to start my build. Does anyone have any info regarding PCBs that are currently available? The eBay link that I've found no longer has them "in stock", but I'm not sure if that means they will no longer have any at all, or it's just for the time being. I've sent a message to ask, and am awaiting the reply. In case the seller will no longer have any to sell, does anyone know a good option, other than having them fabbed myself?
Thanks![/quote]
I have a couple of PCBs left. If you're in Europe, PM me your address and I'll send a set your way. If you're outside of Europe, I'd have to check the postage rates, but I'm sure we could figure something out.
[quote author="afedorov"][quote author="minkok"]Check P2/ pin2 to GND.[/quote] You're completely right, it should be the reason! GND is back powered periodically by SPI pins and while current consumption is low, charge of the capacitors is enough to provide power until the next update.[/quote]
Thank you both so much. This was the culprit - while the solder joint looked good, the OLED PCB didn't have a proper connection to GND. Resoldered and now it's working perfectly :) Next up is a case and a replacement middle button which I abused a bit too hard with my hot air station :/
Thanks for all your answers, will check all that in a week as I'm currently on holiday without access to any measurement equipment (or the actual board for that matter). I will definitely report back!
Just got the delivery for the missing parts and replaced Q14 and 16 with Vishay SI2315BDS-T1-E3 as suggested in this thread. Unfortunately, the OLED still behaves the same. I'll solder in Q18-22, but I don't quite think that this will make a difference. So most probably my OLED is broken?
[quote author="afedorov"] Are Q14 and Q16 OK? I see that Q18, Q19, Q21, Q22 is not installed on your board and are of the same type as Q14 and Q16. [/quote]
You're very observant! Correct, Q18-22 are missing. I forgot to order the IRLML6401s and replaced Q14 and 16 with NDS356As (also P-Channel MOSFETs, but with higher R_DS,on) as I thought they're "just" for turning on VCC and VDD to the OLED. But you think they might be the cause for this problem? The proper FETs are on their way and should be here tomorrow. I'll replace them and report back if it fixes the problem.
I've almost finished building my UniSolder controller. Unfortunately, the OLED is behaving strange. As long as it's in the "default" mode (Currently showing "No instrument" as there's no instrument attached), all is fine, but it's flickering heavily whenever I change the temperature or go into the menu. A video of the behaviour can be seen here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sxLYt6KYHAuNwHra7 Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what might cause this?
My name is Mathis and I'm currently planning on building a Unisolder 5.2 to replace my Ersa iCon Pico and Chinese T12 station. I already ordered the PCBs and stencils which should be arriving soon. Regarding the parts, I've put together a Mouser cart: <I don't seem to be able to post links yet. I'll edit this post and add it later> This is based on a previous BOM I found in this forum with all backordered parts replaced with stocked ones. No guarantees, but I think it's pretty complete..
I do have several questions though:
* Can anyone recommend a known good OLED on eBay / AliExpress? Most of the displays I see are already attached to a PCB - I know that display and board can be separated, I tried it using hot air with a dual color one I had lying around. All of the displays I found so far say they need 3.3 or 5V though - no mention of 9 or 12V - this is bothering me. * Reading through all the posts, I see some people have built nice metal enclosures for their Unisolders. Are more informations on the used cases and especially source files for the front and rear plates available? I have access to a CNC machine to do the milling.
