[quote author="minkok"]..... Is it normal and is it possible to decrease this time around 2s?[/quote]
This is not Sparky, but: Yes, that is normal I think - and yes, you can set this in the menue.
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I am asking because of a need of Hibernation, to be able to remove safety the heating element, but for the time of 20s is no sense. ........
I do not understand - if you remove the tip with the temperature of 320 degrees or 170 - there is no difference: not for the tip and not for the fingers..... or what do you mean with safety?
[quote author="ScotY808"]I did not let it stay on for very long...hopefully it is okay.
I measure 1.1 ohm from red to green wire on iron. 2.7 ohm from blue to green wire. I found from youtube that green is common ground, red is thermocouple wire, and blue is heater wire.[/quote]
please take the tip out and measure from the outer shell to both of the other connectors.....
if your Iron glew red - there is the possibility that this tip went to Nirwana.
when you try a new tip make sure that one hand can interrupt the power in the first 2 or 3 seconds. I would set the temperature to 120° for testing maybe you can see something in this short time.
and off course you are right with your objection to the earphone jack.
but there is a solder-tip from Weller with 40W and afaik up to 55W which has a build-in 3,5mm (headphone plug) connector and there are hundreds of Diy - stations that uses these jacks for connections.....
I own one too. I have no problems and I never heard about problems about the jacks.
And if you have a look at the Chinese Hakko T12 connectors in the irons....... I opened a Hakko-clone solder iron and a headphone jack - the headphone jack looks more solid.
But I decided to build them in diy - out of two tips from the c210-014.
@ sparky: would these two tips work with the "JBC-Tweezers-profile"?
The connection of these tips is easy to do - a special 3,5mm socket for earphones and a single socket for one pin of a 6C33 Tube will do. (If someone is interested, I will post more information about this)
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Has someone build the mechanics for such tweezers? and like to tell - how?
Also any idea (if it will work or not) for building is welcome.
I dont noticed that the R27 and R28 are in a wrong position
as I told - I made the same mistake - and there are two other places, where one can misunderstand the silkscreen:
R65 - R63 and C60 - R46 - you are wrong at R65 and the last two are correct on your board
best way is: to take the 3D photo in post 1 and compare.....
again: thumbs up for sparky! It isn't easy to find a good position for the markings for the parts - and its well done for nearly all of the parts......
